DIY: Clean your throttle bodies
As long as your disconnect your battery and preform the relearn procure you shouldn't have any problems
wasnt able to do it cause of rain
but will take a stab at it tomorrow. After reading this thread, some said you dont have to disconnect the battery if you dont disconnect any of the hoses or sensors? if I just leave everything connected can I keep the battery connected? I hate readjusting the ecu, door locks, clock, and radio presets....
but will take a stab at it tomorrow. After reading this thread, some said you dont have to disconnect the battery if you dont disconnect any of the hoses or sensors? if I just leave everything connected can I keep the battery connected? I hate readjusting the ecu, door locks, clock, and radio presets....
wasnt able to do it cause of rain
but will take a stab at it tomorrow. After reading this thread, some said you dont have to disconnect the battery if you dont disconnect any of the hoses or sensors? if I just leave everything connected can I keep the battery connected? I hate readjusting the ecu, door locks, clock, and radio presets....
but will take a stab at it tomorrow. After reading this thread, some said you dont have to disconnect the battery if you dont disconnect any of the hoses or sensors? if I just leave everything connected can I keep the battery connected? I hate readjusting the ecu, door locks, clock, and radio presets....I would recommend disconnecting the battery, but is your call. If you disconnect the battery you don't need to reset your ECU, it adjust on is own. The only procedures you might have to do is the throttle valve closed position relearn procedure and the idle air volume relearn procedure, if you disconnect the throttle body.
I have done this so many times and only had a problem once, but after doing the procedures I mention above the SES light is gone and it idles at the correct RPM. The procedures are PIA, I had to performed them so many times before it actually work.
I am just going to disconnect the battery then and perform the procedures so that it can adjust to the changes. I found the steps, but can someone please explain what I wrote in parenthesis because this seems to be written by someone who isn't fluent in english and it is confusing me
(no disrespect to whoever wrote it)
Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning
Operation Procedures
1. Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch is(to?) “ON”.
3. Turn ignition switch is(to?) “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
Make sure that the throttle valve moves(how do you know it moved?) during above 10 seconds by confirming the operating sound. (what sound?)
Idle Air Volume Learning (Throttle Position Learning)
It is better to count the time accurately with a clock.
Operation Procedures
1. Perform “Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning”. (what is this?)
2. Perform “Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning”. (this is the above procedure?)
3. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.
4. Turn ignition switch “OFF” and wait at least 10 seconds.
5. Conform that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
6. Repeat the following (steps 7a, 7b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.
7a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD)
7b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
8. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 20 seconds until the Check Engine Light (CEL) stops blinking and turned ON.
9. Fully release the accelerator pedal within 3 seconds after the CEL is ON.
10. Start engine and let it idle.
11. Wait 20 seconds.
12. Rev up the engine two or three times and make sure the idle speed and ignition timing are within the specifications.
thanks.
Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning
Operation Procedures
1. Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch is(to?) “ON”.
3. Turn ignition switch is(to?) “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
Make sure that the throttle valve moves(how do you know it moved?) during above 10 seconds by confirming the operating sound. (what sound?)
Idle Air Volume Learning (Throttle Position Learning)
It is better to count the time accurately with a clock.
Operation Procedures
1. Perform “Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning”. (what is this?)
2. Perform “Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning”. (this is the above procedure?)
3. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.
4. Turn ignition switch “OFF” and wait at least 10 seconds.
5. Conform that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
6. Repeat the following (steps 7a, 7b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.
7a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD)
7b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
8. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 20 seconds until the Check Engine Light (CEL) stops blinking and turned ON.
9. Fully release the accelerator pedal within 3 seconds after the CEL is ON.
10. Start engine and let it idle.
11. Wait 20 seconds.
12. Rev up the engine two or three times and make sure the idle speed and ignition timing are within the specifications.
thanks.
I just did this on my car yesterday. I left the battery connected. I did not remove any plugs, neither did I disconnect any sensors except the MAF sensors to make sure they were clean since I was replacing the air filters at the same time. The car idled high and tripped a P1507 on the way to work this morning. It took a few tries, but I was able to reset the ECU and perform procedures A, B, & C successfully. I knew it worked the last time because the car started up at 1000 rpm, and ran rough for the first 20 seconds or so. I let it idle for a few minutes before going for a test drive. All seemed good.
I didn't read all 17 pages of this thread, so I apologize in advance if this is a repost, but I think it's worth mentioning that even if all TB plugs/sensors remain connected and the throttle plates are moved during cleaning, the throttle position learning may still need to be done.
I didn't read all 17 pages of this thread, so I apologize in advance if this is a repost, but I think it's worth mentioning that even if all TB plugs/sensors remain connected and the throttle plates are moved during cleaning, the throttle position learning may still need to be done.
Just finished cleaning my TBs... wanted to share what I did and my experience:
Followed OP's instructions to the T + disconnected the negative terminal before cleaning + used a microfiber towel.
No problems after initial startup from cleaning. I idle at a solid 700 to 600 rpm now.
Used to be that if my A/C was on, or when turning it on/off, my rpm would dip alot, sometimes down to 400. Now... nothing! stays at 600, never dips below.
Great DIY, had to toss my towel, b/c it was so dirty. But it was worth it!
Followed OP's instructions to the T + disconnected the negative terminal before cleaning + used a microfiber towel.
No problems after initial startup from cleaning. I idle at a solid 700 to 600 rpm now.
Used to be that if my A/C was on, or when turning it on/off, my rpm would dip alot, sometimes down to 400. Now... nothing! stays at 600, never dips below.
Great DIY, had to toss my towel, b/c it was so dirty. But it was worth it!
I did this DIY today to the T and still got the idle problem, everything is tighten and back to original. When I first started the car the RPM was steady at 2000 then it started to go up and down hard constantly and only happens in park. When in drive the RPM would be 1200 steady. Went for a couple of runs, when coming to a stop light the car would jerk like down shifting hard and would stop at 1200 then when in park again it would be 2000 and going up and down hard. I tried the procedures to relearn but still the same problem. I then disconnected the negative battery for 20 minutes and now the car would idle at 1800 even in park, atleast it stopped doing the up and down RPM. Should the car fix itself in acouple of days? or do I have a problem now?
P.S. I am at 160K km and it was really dirty.
P.S. I am at 160K km and it was really dirty.
It will take a few tries to get all three procedures to work. You will know that it worked if when you start the car, the engine will not rev up as high as before. Some people report it starts at as low as 800 RPM, mine was at 1,000. The idle felt rough and fluctuated just a bit before leveling out. Then, driving the first few days I did notice the tach needle going up to 1200 and coming back down when coasting towards my house, or coming to a stop as the ecu relearned the idle. Remember, timing is critical. Good luck.
It will take a few tries to get all three procedures to work. You will know that it worked if when you start the car, the engine will not rev up as high as before. Some people report it starts at as low as 800 RPM, mine was at 1,000. The idle felt rough and fluctuated just a bit before leveling out. Then, driving the first few days I did notice the tach needle going up to 1200 and coming back down when coasting towards my house, or coming to a stop as the ecu relearned the idle. Remember, timing is critical. Good luck.




