BTW, just noticed you're in Minnesnowta also. I got mine at Luther in Bloomington (although I use Lupient for service). Luther is closer so I go there for parts.

 

Alright, thanks. I'm right off 94/280 so everything is a bit of a haul for me. And I didn't notice the thing sticking out of the o-ring. Kind of strange... Guess I'll be dropping $16 haha.

With any luck I'll be the proud owner of a (high mileage :-s) 07 G35X on Saturday (busing down to Chicago to pick it up)... Everything seems to check out on it, and it's cheap enough for me to realistically buy on my meager grad student income :-) Its lease expired at 92k and it never had its 90k maintenance, so I'm hoping to make them drop the price with that and then do what I can on my own.

 

Yea, the tab helps with removal and installation. I just had the 60k service done on mine but had the dealer do some and I did some so it was only $450 versus $900 for everything they recommend.

Good luck in Chicago, hope it goes well. Watch out for the WISP on the drive back.

 

So I just followed this procedure, didn't disconnect anything but I did have the car in the ACC position to listen to the radio while I was workin on the car. And now, it's idling high, hovering around 2,000 rpms like the one in that video. The Service Engine light is on. I was able to reset that via disconnection of the battery. Did the idle relearn and it DID drop down to 1,000 rpms. Until I shut off the motor, then it was back up to 2,000 rpm. I did quite a few WOT runs and still hovering around 2,000. Now the Service engine light is back on. So I guess at this point, there's nothing I can do but drive the car like that until the idle eventually settles back down? I've driven it a good 20ish miles so far and still no progress.

 

Not sure why you are getting the check engine light. I would be sure that your throttle bodies are snugged down and that there are no air leaks or loose hose clamps. When I did mine, I did have to disconnect one small hose on the passenger side so that I could move the air intake out of the way. Also, not sure where you live but here in Minnesota, when it is really cold, right after starting, the car does idle higher until it begins to warm up. Hope this helps.

 

I live in California, and the weather has been in the 70's so it's not a cold startup idle thing. I notice that after driving for awhile, the idle starts to lope when I'm stopped and in neutral. I think that I'm going to try to disconnect the battery overnight and see if that resets everything. I already checked all connections, hoses are all on and clamped, the throttle body is all tightened down. No real good reason for it to be having this issue.

 

Not sure what to tell you. Did you spray any throttle body cleaner in the intake plenun? Are your MAFs and Throttle Body connections secure?

Hopefully your reset will take this time and the problem will clear.

 

Hey OP, to summarize all that's been discussed here:
As long as the car is off and none of the hoses or connections are disconnected, I can move open the butterfly plate inside the throttle body and clean the plate edges that make contact with the tb it self without having to do idle relearn or any of that correct?

As for the allen key hex bolts, to open them is it clock wise or counter when ur facing it in front of u?

 

Loosen is always counter clockwise unless its a special application. Many ppl have had different reactions from the TB with their service technique, all i did was to to keep my car OFF and not disconnect ANY wires or hoses and then moved the butterfly plate open to clean nicely then closed everything back and no relearn required, but some have had issues with it and has taken a few miles for the idle to normalize.

 

^^ Yep!!

 

Take it to any mechanic shop and scan the code so we know what it's about.

 

Hey drifter I have a thread going right now, but I noticed in this post there's no guides on how to remove stock intakes to get to the throttle body ...
Do u have any guides I can go by to safely remove the intake so I can get to the tb?

 

I done the DYI this weekend..at first everything was fine. Then driving home today I was noticing the idle acting funny while breaking or sitting at a light or stop. So I did the “Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning” and also the “Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning” and they seems to take care of the funny rpms. BUT my "service engine" light is on. How do I clear this and what could be the problem?

 

^ this diy should not be causing any CEL my only guess would be to check the MAF wire connector, check your gas cap(make sure its tight and clicks) then reset the ecu with pedal method or by disconnecting battery(u lose preset radio stations, and memory settings). If the light comes back on get it checked out by local parts store for free.

 

Well I disconnected the battery overnight. When I crunk her to get to work this morning the service light was off and everything seemed like it was back to normal. I do have the high initial rpm jump on startups but I believe thats what it should be doing with a freshly cleaned throttle body. Everyone should do this or have it done..I was surprised mine was as bad as it was.