I have to agree. My car was running fine and if I had to do it all over again, I wouldn't do it. "if it aint broke, don't try to fix it".

 

Taking off the throttle bodies from the plenum should not create any issues with the calibration and neither should moving the butterfly valve gently for cleaning purposes.
However, another way to go about cleaning the TB's is to take them off and spray TB cleaner directly on the butterfly valve and surrounding area without touching the valve. This might not be as thorough but it should clean out the majority of the oil residue.

A catch can will help reduce the amount of residue for sure. I'm currently running a Greddy catch can and it helps a lot. I'll try and make a DIY when I can.

 

cleaned my TBs yesterday and everything went great. Drove the car around all day and it drove great. I also let it sit off several times for hour + to make sure I would not have starting issues. Well this morning, when i go to start the car, the car sounds like its choking and wont start. its def not battery and its gotta be related to TB. I dont have time to troubleshoot now as I have to get to work but hopefully after work. any ideas in the meantime?

 

did you do the TB reset ?

 

Uh oh, probably not. What and how to do that?

 

Bringing this back, guys, because I'm not at 37K on my '08 6MT and having this fluctuating idle. So, what is the consensus for best results? Is it per the OP to leave battery connected, ignition OFF, TB connector plugged? I'm still leary about this DYI. Recommendations?

 

this is a helpful video for you guys

It's dealing with a Altima throttle body clean/relearn but it's basically the same thing

begin watching at 2:30

 

^^ good find

 

Count me in the Nissan victim for unenlightened throttle body cleaners. Over the last year I moved to Ohio and got two used G35X's (2007 & 2008). My 2007 just rolled over 100k so I decided to put in new plugs. To do so you have to remove the throttle body (to access coil pack under them) so I was able to clean them while off. I've cleaned throttle bodies for years w/no problems but this is my first time doing the infinity's. I did not unplug anything (including the negative battery terminal which in hindsight should have done since I was unplugging the coil pack). After putting it back together I have a high and surging idle. Reading thru most of the 27 pages of this forum, I went out and disconnected negative battery, and then went thru the complete relearn procedure. I don't have an SES light on; only the high and surging idle (between 1200-2200 up and down w/engine fully warm). My only problem in the relearn procedure is the step 4-6 in the ECU reset procedure:
http://www.technosquareinc.com/350reset.htm

When I release the accelerator pedal w/CEL blinking, it will stop on its own and go solid. Of course when I complete the process anyway and start it, I have no SES light on. So am I resetting this properly or not? Not clear that I even need to do this part if I don't have an SES light on, but the the throttle relearn says you have to do this first. When I do the throttle position learning at the end of the link above, I can do all those steps, but I still have the surge.

I did go out an drive it last nite very aggressively and it may have tightened the surge range a bit. Going to drive today and see if it improves any. If it doesn't get better I will take it to a mechanic that can do the relearn, although if I'm doing the process above correctly don't know what his reset will do that this doesn't. Hard to imagine damaging the TB's; although many posters seem convinced you can by cleaning. Any other suggestions based on my description of the problem.

 

Drove it to work this morning, filled w/gas, and did several WOT runs. Seems to run good anytime RPM>2000. It did decelerate nicely as I got into work to about 1200, but then shortly started the herky jerky between 1200-2200. Hopefully will learn more over the next couple of days.

 

Looking back over this thread, I noticed this whole discussion (posts #46 through #66 ) regarding the correct torque spec for tightening the throttle body. People had correctly identified that the spec was not 75 ft.lbs., but was indeed 75 inch lbs., however, no one seemed to notice, or at least no one mentioned, that the spec shown in the FSM is actually shown correctly per factory torque and symbol definitions.

A factory torque/symbol notation format is :

xx N-m ( xx kg-m, xx ft.-lb.) [where the wrench symbol is WHITE with a BLACK background]
and
xx N-m ( xx kg-m, xx in.-lb.) [where the wrench symbol is BLACK with a WHITE background]

SO, in the case of the throttle body, the listing is shown as: 8.43 ( 0.86, 75 ) and (correctly) shows a symbol of a black wrench on white background. This means the torque spec is 75 in.lbs.

SO, there was no mistake in the FSM.

That is all.

 

On top of that, I would imagine that torquing it to 75 ft/lbs would break the nut head off

 

My 2005 G35 Sedan (117k miles) had been idling a bit high (~800-900 RPM warm idle) and spitting the P0507 code for the past few months.

This past weekend I cleaned the throttle body, reoiled the pop charger, and changed the oil/oil filter. For the next two days my car was driving ANGRY. In drive/reverse it would warm idle at about 1000 RPM, in park or neutral I was lucky to get it under 1400 RPM.

After driving into work today to warm it up, I tried the throttle body relearn procedure. Started it up after successfully completing the relearn, and it's now warm idling in park at about 600 RPM. I'll be watching it closely for the new few days, but am hoping that I fixed the problem.

Just wanted to say thanks for all the troubleshooting that everyone had contributed to this thread. It definitely helped a lot.

 

^ yeah you will be fine, its all about perfecting the relearn process.

 

my car has a 160k took my throttle body apart so much gunk! even in front of the throttle body, noticed a huge difference in idle the moment i started it up! From like 1100 down to 800 Good DIY!

I'm gonna take the pcv prob get a longer hose and run it out under the car to stop some of this gunk