I've got one in my car - mounted right between the A-pillar and headliner. I was going to drill a hole in the A-pillar but I've never gotten around to it and it looks fine sandwiched where it is and I can see it with no issues.

Tapping in to wires shouldn't scare anyone - they are just copper! As long as you use a volt meter BEFORE you make any connections and you know how to make a solid connections there is virtually nothing to worry about. The fuel injector signal can be tapped right at the ECU behind the glove box - there is no need to go to the engine bay to install a shift light.

 

Kev
if you can provide us with a schematic for the 2nd gen cars, I'm sure a bunch of guys will order. I know I will.

 

^+1

 

'03 & '04's didn't have it either.

Good idea!

 

^ I didn't know that...
Was it just the 350Z that had it?

If we can get some 2nd gen specific installation details,
I'm definitely considering it.

There's a vent in the A pillar that might work nicely for the LED location

 

Installation doesn't look too bad for the newer cars.

The VDC switch has a light green wire that connects to the KPtech orange wire (program input)
The VDC switch has a black wire that connects to the KPtech black wire (ground)

The BCM has a white wire at pin 123 that connects to the KPtech yellow wire (switched ignition)

The ECU has a brown wire at pin 85 that connects to the KPtech blue wire (RPM input)

Make sure to use a volt meter to verify ALL wires before making connections!

After the wires are connected, the only thing left to do is mount the 3mm super bright LED. It works best at eye level, but is pretty easy to see in other positions.

 

Thanks Kevin.

I'm going to scope out the LED locations first.
But this is definitely on my list.

 

Ian, do I see a DYI on the way?

 

Is an inline tap acceptable to use, as far as connection wise?

 

We recomend soldering all connections to insure the splice will last as long as the car. However, the actual method used will depend on what the installer is comfortable with.

 

you might be waiting for a while.....
I have to get through the other things first.

 

Kev
I'm not too keen on splicing into the harness. I should have specified that I would use some 3M splices, as I've used those before in car audio with little to no failure. I would imagine that since they wouldn't be moving around much behind the glove box that they'd last (?).

I'm gonna order it soon. Any GB or sales coming up?

Thanks,
San

 

These are the 3M connectors I usually use:

 

Nice this looks good and promising, definitely something i'll be getting soon for my MT

 

I'll be using those as well.
I know soldering is better, but I want to be able to do a clean removal if necessary.