07 g35 is slow going into reverse when cold and has to be revved to about 1200 to go in when hot. No slippage when in gear. What it is?

 

Have you checked the fluid level lately, that's exactly what happens when an automatic transmission is running low.

This can also he a symptom of not maintaining an automatic. It requires a minimum line pressure to operate and as hydraulic fluid breaks down it loses the ability to maintain adequate pressure because its molecules are allowed to "compress" hydraulically much more than fresh fluid. Degraded solenoids due to pumping contaminate-filled fluid makes the issue even worse.

Check your fluid level.

Drain/fill the system every 30k miles.

 

That's the first thing I did because that's what I thought (low fluid). It actually has too much fluid in it and so it has been for the four years we've had it because it has never been checked. I will drain and refill to the proper level and see if that helps. I am old school and all we ever did was check the level, look at it and smell it. Drain, fill, and replace the filter was taboo/bad juju because as sure as you did, you would be rebuilding and replacing. I still change the oil every 3.,000 even though the oil is supposed to go 5,000. I know the new stuff is different and I am going to have to adapt but I sure as hell hate it. Fuel pumps in the tank, computers in the transmission, dropping the oil pan to change a timing belt, etc., etc. All madness compared to the old stuff but that's a different thread. Sorry for the rant. Thank you for your quick reply. I'll let you know what happens.

 

Fortunately this particular Jatco transmission does not have a replaceable filter, it has a screen to trap very large particulates but that's it so there's no reason to drop the pan EVER unless you're replacing major components or installing a shift kit. Make sure you are checking fluid levels only on a hot transmission and that you ran it through EACH gear before pulling the dipstick to check. Usually takes me 7-8 pulls of the dipstick to get a clean reading.

 

I drained and filled but no joy. When it's cold, it's a little slow going in and when it's hot, you have to rev it which is hard on the U-joints (if it goes in at all. We're taking it to the dealer today for a proper raping. How I long for the good old days when I was single and only drove GM products. When she bought this damn thing, I told her (after reading the manual): The Camry is a mule. This is a thoroughbred racehorse. We needed another mule.

 

I always got readings all over the dipstick when it was "warmed up". I was especially concerned because I did the first drain-and-fill after buying it and I replaced the same amount of fluid (even let the fluid cool down to ~75-80 - I know, my 'new' fluid was still cooler but I let it cool for close to an hour). I checked it and it looked high and another time it looked low and so on. It was shifting perfect though so I was confident it was pretty damn close. Not until I came home from a 1-1/2 hour interstate trip and the engine bay and components were bloody hot did I get a reading that I was confident in - it was right in the hash marks for the "Hot" level. I checked it two more times after similar drives and it was at the same level. Now I'm happy that my "baseline" is correct and future drain-and-fills can be done with replacing the same amount that came out.

 

When it behaves one way when cold and differently when warm/hot, that's often a solenoid, isn't it ?

 

Usually, I'd start getting prices on a replacement valve body. Straightforward repair too, unbolt the old one and bolt in the new if you buy one with the TCM still attached, otherwise you have to take off a few more screws for the TCM.

 

That sounds promising. I've done many transmission swaps and that sounds easier. Is it something I can do myself? I take it the TCM is a control module?

 

Unknown. That's why I'm seeking advice. I am from a simpler time when transmissions didn't have electronics inside them...

 

Yep exactly, look up the DIY thread for installing the transgo shift kit, that thread has photos of every step of removal and installation is just the reverse. No special tools needed but you have to keep a very clean workspace so you don't contaminate the new valve body with crap. Ignore all the drilling that's done on the valve body it's all part of the shift kit and you're just going to bolt on another OEM component.

 

Roger that. I appreciate your input. Infiniti was going to charge $125 just o diagnose the problem so I can only imagine what the repair would cost. North 0f $1500 parts and labor, I suspect. Thanks a lot. I'll let you know what happens. Will all the old fluid come out when I drop the VB?

 

No, it'll drop the 3.8 quarts or whatever comes out from a normal 30k mile drain and fill.

 

Yeah, I thought about that when i saw your reply in my email. No way it will drain from the TC.