I unplugged my battery to 'reset' my ECU since I hadn't done it after my HFC install.

I left it unpluged for ~30 minutes and then started the car. All my radio settings and stuff still were saved though, so I find it hard to believe that the ECU was really reset...

Is this typically how it works?

 

thats how i heard it was, also they say to discharge all current in the cables, but i don't know about that. there is also some way to reset the ECU with a 'code' (pressing the gas pedal a certain amount of times, etc) but I wouldn't recommend that

http://www.6mt.net/forum/performance...rocedures.html

 

I may try this... I just have a question:

<u>Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning</u>

Description:
Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning is an operation to learn the fully released position of the accelerator pedal by monitoring the accelerator pedal position sensor output signal. It must be performed each time harness connector of accelerator pedal position sensor or ECM is disconnected.

Operation Procedure:
1. Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch ON and wait at least 2 seconds.
3. Turn ignition switch OFF and wait at least 10 seconds.
4. Turn ignition switch ON and wait at least 2 seconds.
5. Turn ignition switch OFF and wait at least 10 seconds.

<u>Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning</u>

Description:
Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning is an operation to learn the fully closed position of the throttle valve by monitoring the throttle position sensor output signal. It must be performed each time harness connector of electric throttle control actuator or ECM is disconnected.

Operation Procedure:
1. Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch ON.
3. Turn ignition switch OFF and wait at least 10 seconds.
Make sure that throttle valve moves during above 10 seconds by confirming the operating sound.

<u>Idle Air Volume Learning</u>

Description:
Idle Air Volume Learning is an operation to learn the idle air volume that keeps each engine within the specific range. It must be performed each time electric throttle control actuator or ECM is replaced, or if idle speed or ignition timing is out of specification.

Preparation:
Before performing Idle Air Volume Learning, make sure that all of the following conditions are satisfied. Learning will be cancelled if any of the following conditions are missed for even a moment.

- Battery voltage: More than 12.9V (At idle)
- Engine coolant temperature: 70 - 100 Degrees C (158 – 212 Degrees F)
- PNP switch: ON (Park/Neutral Position Safety Switch - AT only, MT fully depress clutch)
- Electric load switch: OFF (Air conditioner, rear window defogger, headlamps. Note: on vehicles equipped with daytime light systems, if the parking brake is applied before the engine is started, the headlamps will not be illuminated.)
- Steering wheel: Neutral (Straight-ahead position)
- Vehicle speed: Stopped
- Transmission: Warmed-up (For A/T models, drive vehicle for 10 minutes.)

Operation Procedure:
1. Perform "Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning"
2. Perform "Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning"
3. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.
4. Check that all items listed under the topic PREPARATION (previously mentioned) are in good order. (Even clutch depressed????)
5. Turn ignition switch OFF and wait at least 10 seconds.
6. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch ON and wait 3 seconds. (wouldn't this start the car w/ the clutch depressed?)
7. Repeat the following procedure quickly five times within 5 seconds:
7a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal.
7b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
8. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 20 seconds until the MIL stops blinking and turned ON.
9. Fully release the accelerator pedal within 3 seconds after the MIL turned ON.
10. Start engine and let it idle.
11. Wait 20 seconds.
12. Rev up the engine two or three times and make sure that idle speed and ignition timing are within the specifications:

 

Just an FYI- you dont need to reset your ECU- that is an old wives tale-

The car will not learn the mod any faster if you disconnect the battery- In fact sometimes it actually takes longer-

It is a good idea to disconnect the battery when you are working on the car for safety reasons and so you dont short something out-

 

That's what I've always thought... but on my VW I would reset codes and clear the adaptation in the ECU as well as do throttlebody resets... so I'd imagine the car could benefit from having all its adaptation channels cleared and relearned. It will figure it out eventually since it's always changing, but it might happen faster/cleaner with a reset.

 

So then for those of you who have purchased the FI exhaust and HFC's, are there/have there been any issues with lights coming on. Or is this something that comes up because you've changed your HFCs? I'm trying to pull the trigger on this darn exhaust . . . .

 

Is this really the right process? Wouldn't it make sense if during some part of this learning process you had to full open the throttle?

Thanks!
Larry.

 

No, that learning is just a zero stop reset. There are multiple algorithms that it uses to calculate throttle including the idle air which uses a WOT measurement.
http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/g35...procedure.html

 

Possible different year Infinities are not the same when it comes to their ECU! Years ago when I installed my Plenum Spacer the Motordyne instructions suggested removing the negative side of the battery while installing, I did so and needed to reset my radio stations. Any time since then I've cleared a error code I get the same results. Also tried using the reset suggested, that never worked even using a stop watch. Guess I'll continue doing what works for me with my 10 mm wrench...Gary

 

I realize this is an old post, but there's a much easier way in 2017. The pedal dance method still works if you don't want to buy any tools. However, OBD2 dongles (bluetooth or wifi) are fairly cheap these days. Grab one, install the Nissan Data Scan app (depending on year of car, you'll need NDSII or NDSIII, I think Consult III came out around 2007-ish), then you can reset the ecu (clear codes), clear learned fuel settings, and do an idle relearn at the tap of a button.

 

Thanks! I just checked out their website (http://www.nissandatascan.com/) and I don't see any mention of any Infiniti vehicles being supported. While the ECU's may be made by Nissan they are likely coded different.

Or, am I missing something?

Thanks,
Larry.

 

They're the same coding.

Nissan DataScan II works with Nissan 350Z Z33 & Nissan Skyline V35 350GT (aka Infiniti G35)

Nissan DataScan III works with Nissan 370Z Z34 & Nissan Skyline V36 (aka Infiniti G37/Q50/Q60)

 

This is great resource info! so I hit up the link and looked like NDSII is the one for VQ35DE. Have you ever tried using this app personally? does it include abs codes or generic only?

 

yes, I use NDSII for android, that's why I recommended it, lol. I don't see abs specific codes, so can't monitor the individual wheel sensors like with uprev though.

I even use NDSI with a Consult I cable to monitor my S14.

 

I recently bought the OBD 2 plug in, downloaded the nissan app from Google app store and did air volume relearn aka throttle reset, worked like charm, by the way, remember, when you do that, all power accessories, A/C,radio etc must be off otherwise it's not going to work, run engine only. Thank you for the tip!