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Old Nov 18, 2009 | 08:13 PM
  #16  
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dofu, being na, I doubt you could stress any oils on your list to the point of making any significant difference.
 
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Old Nov 18, 2009 | 08:16 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Jeff92se
dofu, being na, I doubt you could stress any oils on your list to the point of making any significant difference.
If you're just driving a car from point a to point b and picking up groceries, yea, it doesn't matter much. But if you're revving the hell out of your na motor, it still matters.
 
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Old Nov 18, 2009 | 08:22 PM
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Originally Posted by dofu
If you're just driving a car from point a to point b and picking up groceries, yea, it doesn't matter much. But if you're revving the hell out of your na motor, it still matters.
If you track frequently, you might need more protection temp wise or perhaps better metal to metal contact prevention. But alot of that deals with film strength (which Amsoil is superior to most) and the Zinc content. But most makers can't add much zinc now as the oil can't meet one of the approvals. I can't remember it's the API or something else. If Motul doesn't have some of the certifications like Amsoil does, it might fall into that category. If it doesn't have a higher zinc content, I'll suspect it's not significantly better than most of the others. But if it's been getting superior UOA's then there you go. Other than that, I take whatever most oil company reps say with a grain of salt. The Mobil rep I was emailing couldn't even bring himself to admit alot of their oils were grp III now.
 
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Old Nov 18, 2009 | 08:41 PM
  #19  
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5k with any syn is good enough

something else will go wrong in your car way before the engine does with that kind of maintenance.
 
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Old Nov 18, 2009 | 10:24 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Jeff92se
Other than that, I take whatever most oil company reps say with a grain of salt. The Mobil rep I was emailing couldn't even bring himself to admit alot of their oils were grp III now.
I agree but the teacher for the class is an old man out of Detroit with a lot of connects and the discussion was about motor oils, not how great Redline is. Looking at content, Redline is great for the track, just don't run it in your motor too long.
 
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Old Nov 19, 2009 | 12:00 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by dofu
I agree but the teacher for the class is an old man out of Detroit with a lot of connects and the discussion was about motor oils, not how great Redline is. Looking at content, Redline is great for the track, just don't run it in your motor too long.

So what did he say that made you order your oil list in that manner?
 
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Old Nov 19, 2009 | 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Jeff92se
So what did he say that made you order your oil list in that manner?
Mainly the content in the oils, what they do and how they work... different polymers, zinc content, detergents, etc... Not only was I looking for a more stable oil, I was looking for a higher temperature resistance, and better strength of the oil so it doesn't deteriorate over time. I do remember zinc content being a good and bad thing, but I don't remember why and if I was looking for it or not. How I came to that conclusion, I don't remember. I'd need the notes I took, which I'm not sure I even have around anymore.

But I was looking for which oil is more ideal for a dd that gets revved often... something I can run for about 4, maybe 5000 miles before I change it out, if I get lazy. There are a lot of curvy roads around me no matter which direction I go, and I take advantage of that every day, but I don't want to compromise my motor doing so, especially with the issues revup motors can have.
 

Last edited by dofu; Nov 19, 2009 at 12:36 PM.
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Old Nov 19, 2009 | 01:13 PM
  #23  
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Motul is seriously expensive from what I remember. Even Amsoil which has the strongest film strength out there would be overkill for your 4-5k change.

I see your want for the "best". What I'm trying to say is you could run all the oils on that list, do an UOA on each one and the results wouldn't be that different from the best to worst. aka, none of the oils would be "compromising your engine".

I bet running the cheapest API certified dino oil wouldn't test out that bad.

Personally, if you drive that hard and it's the curvy roads that concern you, you should be looking into maintaining oil pressure not oil quality. That would entail looking into dry sump oil system ala what the ZO6 motor uses.
 
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Old Nov 20, 2009 | 05:57 AM
  #24  
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I use royal purple 5w-30 every 5k miles. I have heard good and bad things about it but not sure about its performance
 
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