Help someone
#1
Help someone
Ok so I just replaced my alternator and battery on my 2007 g35s sedan 6mt. It’s been running good for the past three days then it just gave out on me on the way home. I went to put it in first gear and it wouldn’t rev, But it would rev in neutral. Then my battery just drained and died. I jumped it and it started up and I put it in first gear while the cables were still hooked up and it revved in first. But as soon as I disconnected the jumper cables it wouldn’t rev anymore.I’m assuming it’s an electrical issue but I’m not sure. HELP PLS!
#2
If your car wont stay running without jumper cables hooked up then your alternator is busted.
Next time u jumpstart it, disconnect the jumper cables and quickly measure the voltge at the battery terminals while the engine is still running. It should be close to 14 volts if the alternator is good. If its 12 volts or lower then the alternator is toast.
Next time u jumpstart it, disconnect the jumper cables and quickly measure the voltge at the battery terminals while the engine is still running. It should be close to 14 volts if the alternator is good. If its 12 volts or lower then the alternator is toast.
#3
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#4
#5
If your car wont stay running without jumper cables hooked up then your alternator is busted.
Next time u jumpstart it, disconnect the jumper cables and quickly measure the voltge at the battery terminals while the engine is still running. It should be close to 14 volts if the alternator is good. If its 12 volts or lower then the alternator is toast.
Next time u jumpstart it, disconnect the jumper cables and quickly measure the voltge at the battery terminals while the engine is still running. It should be close to 14 volts if the alternator is good. If its 12 volts or lower then the alternator is toast.
see I get that part. But would that be a reason on why my car won’t rev in first gear ? Or any of the 6gears? I rather it be an alternator issue the. Something else
#6
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Brake light flashing means a problem with the VDC/ABS/TCS computer, not the e-brake.
Get the car scanned at a local auto parts house, someone that can do B and C codes with an OBD2 scanner that supports protocol ISO 9141-2
As for the starting/charging problem. First charge the battery, see if it holds a charge. Should hold 12.5 volts.
Then verify the alternator is actually plugged in, check the fusible link to see if it blew the primary fuse, also check the IPDM to see if it blew the alternator voltage regulator control 10amp fuse.
Then start the car, while running it should be 14.5 volts.
Get the car scanned at a local auto parts house, someone that can do B and C codes with an OBD2 scanner that supports protocol ISO 9141-2
As for the starting/charging problem. First charge the battery, see if it holds a charge. Should hold 12.5 volts.
Then verify the alternator is actually plugged in, check the fusible link to see if it blew the primary fuse, also check the IPDM to see if it blew the alternator voltage regulator control 10amp fuse.
Then start the car, while running it should be 14.5 volts.
#7
Brake light flashing means a problem with the VDC/ABS/TCS computer, not the e-brake.
Get the car scanned at a local auto parts house, someone that can do B and C codes with an OBD2 scanner that supports protocol ISO 9141-2
As for the starting/charging problem. First charge the battery, see if it holds a charge. Should hold 12.5 volts.
Then verify the alternator is actually plugged in, check the fusible link to see if it blew the primary fuse, also check the IPDM to see if it blew the alternator voltage regulator control 10amp fuse.
Then start the car, while running it should be 14.5 volts.
Get the car scanned at a local auto parts house, someone that can do B and C codes with an OBD2 scanner that supports protocol ISO 9141-2
As for the starting/charging problem. First charge the battery, see if it holds a charge. Should hold 12.5 volts.
Then verify the alternator is actually plugged in, check the fusible link to see if it blew the primary fuse, also check the IPDM to see if it blew the alternator voltage regulator control 10amp fuse.
Then start the car, while running it should be 14.5 volts.
I will do this as soon as I can get my car to an auto parts shop and get it checked. But I’ll double check and make sure my alternator is plugged in all the way. That’s the only thing that came in mind was if it was loose maybe. I just started my car up from leaving it sit over night and it started up. Died once I put it in first gear
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#8
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#9
ok so yesterday I passed cables and turned the car on then turned it off. I guess it held charge over night. Turned it on just like an hour ago. It started but once I went from neutral to first gear it died. Didn’t stall but it died completely. Now I gotta pass cables again to get it to turn on. My car is a manual not an auto
#10
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Get a digital multimeter and check battery voltage once it's running. It should be 14.5 volts.
It's strange that it dies as soon as you go into gear though, does it happen even with the clutch still depressed or does it stall only when you try to release the clutch?
If it happens only when you release the clutch then what happens if you release the clutch very slowly. Can you feel the engine rpm's bog down at a certain point?
If you leave it in neutral will it stay running or will it stall eventually?
Can you put the car in neutral and roll it around? You might have a seized brake caliper that is literally just not letting the car move.
It's strange that it dies as soon as you go into gear though, does it happen even with the clutch still depressed or does it stall only when you try to release the clutch?
If it happens only when you release the clutch then what happens if you release the clutch very slowly. Can you feel the engine rpm's bog down at a certain point?
If you leave it in neutral will it stay running or will it stall eventually?
Can you put the car in neutral and roll it around? You might have a seized brake caliper that is literally just not letting the car move.
#11
Get a digital multimeter and check battery voltage once it's running. It should be 14.5 volts.
It's strange that it dies as soon as you go into gear though, does it happen even with the clutch still depressed or does it stall only when you try to release the clutch?
If it happens only when you release the clutch then what happens if you release the clutch very slowly. Can you feel the engine rpm's bog down at a certain point?
If you leave it in neutral will it stay running or will it stall eventually?
Can you put the car in neutral and roll it around? You might have a seized brake caliper that is literally just not letting the car move.
It's strange that it dies as soon as you go into gear though, does it happen even with the clutch still depressed or does it stall only when you try to release the clutch?
If it happens only when you release the clutch then what happens if you release the clutch very slowly. Can you feel the engine rpm's bog down at a certain point?
If you leave it in neutral will it stay running or will it stall eventually?
Can you put the car in neutral and roll it around? You might have a seized brake caliper that is literally just not letting the car move.
I’ll have my nephew bring his from work on Monday as I don’t own one myself.
so when I turned it on it just completely died when I had the clutch pedal pressed In putting it in first. Rpm’s didn’t move or anything. But one thing I did noticed was that the rpm’s stayed at 2k when I turned the car on. Never seen it do that before.
I haven’t tried just leaving it running in neutral since last night. Last night i had it running in neutral then it just died on me.
the car moves fine in neutral. I pulled it to the house last night so I don’t think it’s anything to do with the calipers. Something is draining my battery or making my alternator short out. Cause it ran fine when u put in a new alternator and new battery. But now it’s just not holding charge for some reason
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