There has been quite a bit of talk about the inherent toe problems that the 350Z and G35 Coupes have. Some of that is factory ...stuff. Some of that is the result of lowering the cars. We are officially releasing our Adjustable Toe Arms TODAY!

They come complete with urethane bushings and tapered sleeves with complete adjustability via a clear anodized threaded center sleeve. So, stop chewing up tires. Get your alignment back into factory spec. Combine these with our Camber Adjusters (complete with Heim Joints) and your rear suspension will have complete adjustability. You could even set the rear up for aggressive track and SCCA driving (intentional extra camber).

Part Number: 308335
Price for the Adjustable Toe Arms: $446.- + shipping.
Black Powder Coated, Clear Anodized, Urethane Bushings, Tapered Sleeves. Shipped Assembled.


<P ID="edit"><FONT class="small"><EM>Edited by 2FST4U on 01/07/04 01:35 PM.</EM></FONT></P>

166063-TOE-ROD ADJUSTERS.jpg

 

for half the price you can get the same thing. LSDunique of the my350z forum makes them (kinetix on ebay).

 

The whole kit $447 shipped off eBay.
That comes out to roughly $223 a pair.

Here's what they claim:

** PACKAGE COMES WITH (2) CAMBER ADJUSTABLE SUSPENSION ARMS AND (2) "TRACTION" ADJUSTABLE SUSPENSION ARMS

** MANUFACTURED BY OUR SISTER COMPANY "KINETIX RACING" IN SoCal

** PRECISION TIG WELDS

** ALLOWS FULL ADJUSTABILITY OF CAMBER WHILE ON THE CAR.

** TRACTION ARMS ALLOW SLIGHT "TOE" ADJUSTMENT OF THE REAR SUSPENSION AND CAN ELIMINATE WHEEL HOP. THEY RUN "FRONT TO BACK" OFF THE REAR SPINDLE

** BOTH HAVE FULL STAINLESS CONSTRUCTION WITH STAINLESS ADJUSTABLE TURNBUCKLE

** ENERGY SUSPENSION POLYURETHANE BUSHINGS

** HAVE BEEN SOLD AND INSTALLED ON OVER 26 CARS TO DATE WITH GREAT REVIEWS

** BUILT WITH RACERS IN MIND, THESE WON'T BREAK

** GREAT ALTERNATIVE TO THE COMPETITION PRICED AT ALMOST DOUBLE!!

** INSTALL TIME BETWEEN 1.5-2.5 HOURS

** COMPLETE WITH HARDWARE AND PRE-LUBRICATED



"See, the problem is that God gives men a brain and a *****, but only enough blood to run one at a time."

 

Off Topic - but I love your quote at the bottom of your sig!

 

Thanks for the heads up!!

What is the range of adjustability - they state slight? Looks like they use stainless - that's good. Do they have liability insurance should any part of the component fail? These are some things I would ask myself when purchasing any suspension item (or anything for that matter). There are so many vector, maximum moment, and radius of gyration stresses that occur on componentry like this. If they have these things covered - that's good!

Please don't misunderstand me, competition is very healthy.

You'll have to make the call if you haven't done so already. If you have gone with Kinetix, please consider STILLEN for any other items - even if they are not STILLEN. We carry more than 100 different lines (vendors) - and $5million in inventory. So, if you need it...we probably have it in stock.

Cheers!
<P ID="edit"><FONT class="small"><EM>Edited by 2FST4U on 01/08/04 07:51 AM.</EM></FONT></P>

 

the kinetix arms are pretty beefy, the threads are tight and have no play. Problem is that the toe arms don't really help the toe all that much. I still have 2.0 camber because everytime I shoot for 1.0-1.5 camber my toe is off. I would need to do that bolt mod everyone's talking about on my350z.com to get my toe and camber back to specs.



2003 G35 Coupe 6mt Diamond Graphite
1992 Jeep Cherokee Blk 5.5 RE lift /w 33s
AIM= bkchang79

 

no problem 2fst4u. Just trying to help out my fellow G owners and car/bike enthusiasts.

The stillen's look very nice. It's just that I would never give Stillen a penny or buy any of their products.

I'm a firm believer in "you get what you pay for", but I also don't think price always justifies the quality or performance. There's such thing as over inflated prices and just paying for a name.

"component fail"? That's just a risk people take with any adjustable part. Especially on suspension pieces. It's pretty scary knowing that a solid piece is now replaced with something that can come loose, strip, snap and what ever else murphy's law covers. Not saying a solid piece is stronger, but there's less moving parts that can fail.

"Do they have liability insurance?" I think most companies have that now days. Espeically in this country where people like to sue. What good is that for the customer though?

 

Here's what I'm talking about, if you set the toe to 0, the best camber you can get is 2.0. Here's the fix.

http://www.my350z.com/forum/showthre...threadid=50072

taken from N74DV
"I have LSD's camber/traction rods. I went today to an alignment shop to have the rear aligned after installing them. We spent a few hours checking out the rear suspension. Camber was easy to adjust.... just turn the turnbuckle on the rod and dial it in.

Problem is the toe get's nasty when the camber is brought back to within -1.5.... the resultant effect is WAY too much toe-in.


I had this problem on the right side. The left side came to within spec but barely. The right side had +.42" of toe-in when the camber was dialed to -1.6.

Contrary to what most believe traction rods do not really adjust toe. Their attachement point is right inline with the angle of inclination. Lengthening/shortening of the traction rod results in rear caster adjustment only.

I know... I know.... some of you may say that your alignment shop used the traction rod to adjust the toe.... while they may have, what really happened is the toe that was "adjusted" was really a byproduct of a caster change. Chances are your caster is not what it should be.

So now I'm thinkning I'm screwed.... I take the car home and think about it for a few hours..... Then the lightbulb lit up!

I took off the rear lower control arm (the one the spring sits in). I saw that if I milled out the hole in the outter end of the arm (end closest to the tire) to a slot as opposed to a prefect circle it would allow me to relocate the bolt to the inside by about 3/16". Essentially the same thing that the frame has for the other side of the arm that uses a cam.

To lock the bolt in place, I drilled and tapped 4-40 threaded holes and screwed in (with RED Loctite) stainless allen bolts that act as "locking pins"

This new bolt location pulls the rear of the spindle in a good amount.

After this mod I found that the toe had TONS more adjustment! My stock toe cam isn't even maxed out and I have perfect toe now. My camber is set at -1.4 now.

Finally the solution to my toe/camber problem in the rear. IMO this is a must if your dropped 1.3" or more.

Total time to complete was about 1 hour.

Tools used:
17mm wrench
19mm wrench
Dremel with carbide milling cutter (and a steady hand)
4-40 tap with #43 drill bit
4-40 stainless Allen bolts cut to 3/8" long
Red Loctite

6-32 bolts could be used instead of 4-40's.... I had no 6-32's on hand.

A few pics below to illustrate the mod.


My alignment shop guy was amazed at how simple the fix was.... you'll be too if you try it."




2003 G35 Coupe 6mt Diamond Graphite
1992 Jeep Cherokee Blk 5.5 RE lift /w 33s
AIM= bkchang79

 

I can help with your liability question. If the part fails and you kill yourself or someone else. Who is responsible? Well you drove the car and put the part on so you are...but you bought the part with expectation that it was as good as or better than what it replaced. With that in mind when the law suit takes place the blame for what happens then shifts to who is really responsible for the "event". If the part failed then the manufacturer of the part is to blame and his insurance carrier will be writing some rather large checks those following weeks instead of yours. It is an important item to keep in mind but no one ever talks about product liability-it doesn't help us go faster. It might save us when something fails and we do have an"OOOO...$hit.." moment.


03.5 Sedan/B. Silver/Prem/Winter/Aero/Tint/Rims
69 Chevelle Hard Top BB/4.11's/Posi

 

Well Stated.

 

I'm very curious. What did STILLEN fall down on? Anything that I could do to help?

AC

 

Why...Thank you.

03.5 Sedan/B. Silver/Prem/Winter/Aero/Tint/Rims
69 Chevelle Hard Top BB/4.11's/Posi

 

The bar's you posted is not a fix, it's a bandaid like other people mentioned.

Check out this thread
https://g35driver.com/forums/showfla...view=&sb=&vc=1

G35C 6MT / AMG E55<P ID="edit"><FONT class="small"><EM>Edited by wreck on 01/09/04 01:35 PM.</EM></FONT></P>