i have a fvcking vibration on the highway it starts at around 65mph right at fvcking crusing speed and gets worse as i let off the gas pedal goes away as i hit the gas pedal again, then after 80mph it goes away, 4 brand new tires with balancing didn't help Any ideas??

 

Simple balancing vs precision HUNTER radial force measurements and correction?
OEM or aftermarket wheels?
Oem specs no more than 5 pounds of radial force imbalance.

http://www.gsp9700.com/pub/technical/4202T/5THEO004.cfm

 

My tires only showed a 1/2 ounce off, they changed it and that is all it took, close is not good enough on these cars. They are very sensitive.

 

I'm having the same problems. It does this on my oem wheels AND my aftermarket wheels.

 

1/2 ounce is 14 grams when using a standard balancer we set within 1.0 grams. THEN measure the radial force imbalance with 900 pounds pressing against tire to duplicate real world conditions.

Be very wary of shops that spec in ounces instead of grams............There is a secret coarse/fine switch on the rear to to round display to save time and work and fool customer.

 

Whoa!!! Hey Q45, I pay a lot of money to have my wheels/tires road force balanced but did not know there was a specific sequence to road force balancing. I have watched Discount tire perform the Road Force balance ie: relocate the tire on the wheel then balance it. Is this not the approved practice? As far as the fine tune switch I would really like to know more about this and if there is a specific routine to Road Force balancing.

 

if it vibrates after a balancing, maybe your wheels is out of round.... tell them to put the wheel on the balancing machine w/o the tire, and look at the wheel spin. some wheels are defective and won't be perfectly round/flat....

 

Normally the average shop use the simpler [and half the price] non radial force balancer!

Easy to spot as this unit DOES NOT have a heavy roller that squishes the tire [simulating the weight of car on the tire wheel].

These are the machines with fine/coarse switch.

For my cars and those that pay extra I start out with bare wheels before the tires are ever mounted to make sure they meet oem specifications for runout and balance.
VERY FEW NON OEM NON FORGED WHEELS Meet oem specs!

A quick and dirty test is does the wheel exceed 5 grams* [error] imbalance per side on an simple balancer. FIX THE WHEEL BEFORE YOU EVER CONSIDER MOUNTING A TIRE ON IT!

* Sometimes I tolerate 10 grams on the inside of wheel and for sure no more than 5 grams on the outside. I either grind the high spots or epoxy glue on weights to ultimately get the wheel to 1gram/1gram.

Wheel perfection is the name of the game then you can begin to worry about tires.

Historically Michelin has had the lowest [and longest sustainable] radial force errors of any manufacturer since every tire is tested to higher standards and stronger, lighter more expensive materials are used. Even Michelin warns that after 20,000 miles all bets are off depending on local roads/conditions and sizes.

http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/staticfiles...inal080907.pdf

 

Been battling this one for a while. '06 G35 sedan. New tires and three rounds of balancing didn't help. At the dealer now (waiting). Gonna try new rims and tires. Any other ideas?

 

new wheels and tires didn't work. Now they're replacing the steering rack.

 

You must know the vibration frequency in Hertz at reference speed to determine which rotating component is causing vibration!

Remember dealer technican and service manager are not engineers and the dealership may not have the expensive test equipment necessary. Mandatory at Lexus dealerships!