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Old Jul 21, 2012 | 04:50 PM
  #3916  
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Originally Posted by SAMzG35
How low do the Z40 go any idea? Not looking to slam just a nice drop to remove some of the gap. almost 300 bucks in price difference
From what I know, they can't make the sedans tuck tire.... so even higher on the coupe.

Originally Posted by pghg35sedan
Thanks for some solid info....I have the rear camber arms already..I installed them when I did my coils. As far as the guarantee those werent his exact words.....but I have watched him do a few pulls with no cracking....he seems to be pretty confident that he can do this with mine if they crack oh well not a big problem.

Another positive is that my car was just painted so I know there isnt any filler in the quarters.

Is there a way to run wider that a 245 tire in the rear. People are saying that they run 265 or 275 on this offset and width wheel....only way I can think of is a ton of camber
Show me their cars.

Originally Posted by PAIXAO
What modifications will be necessary to run the following setup on a 2004 Sedan and what tire sizes would be best??

19x8.5 +18 Front
19x9.5 +22 Rear
225/35 and 245/35 or 235/35. Roll the rear fenders and remove hardware in front fenders. Lower the car couple inches and it'll clear.
 
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Old Jul 21, 2012 | 05:52 PM
  #3917  
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^^ thanks.

Now I will do some searching regarding the front hardware you're talking about. I appreciate it!!
 
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Old Jul 21, 2012 | 05:56 PM
  #3918  
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^^he is talking about the bolts that hold in your fenderliner...the ones that are directly in the middle of the wheel wells...there will be one on each side of the front fenders
 
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Old Jul 22, 2012 | 01:45 AM
  #3919  
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4DGS, thanks again for your advice regarding rolling fenders using revised Z or Z/G suspension on 245/45/18 on the rears. These are some pics with stock suspension, your advice looks on point. I'd be a little skeptical dropping the rears as is. The stance is mean though (In my opinion, not a fan of a lot of poke/camber). Yes my car is dirty it's been raining here = \
 
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Old Jul 22, 2012 | 09:08 AM
  #3920  
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^ DUMP that bad boy!!!
 
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Old Jul 22, 2012 | 09:22 AM
  #3921  
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OK! now that I've decided on my wheels... What kind of camber should i run? currently running -1.2 in the front and -2.0 in the rear...

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19x9.5+17
19x10.5+22

planning to get ACHILLES or one of the true/large running sized tire.

 

Last edited by MPG35fiend; Jul 22, 2012 at 09:30 AM.
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Old Jul 22, 2012 | 10:32 AM
  #3922  
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ok Achilles doesn't make a 225/40.

does any body know how the GENERAL G-MAX are?

do they run small, true, or large??
 
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Old Jul 22, 2012 | 12:48 PM
  #3923  
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Got my fronts on 4DGS. Still working on the rears dialing in the negative camber and some more pull..Here is a crappy cell pic of the front though
 
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Old Jul 22, 2012 | 05:18 PM
  #3924  
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Hey 4DGS, I have a question about removing the faces on the work Vsxx wheels. You just unscrew the 45 assembly bolts and the face should come right off right? Then I read you'd have to put loctite on the assembly bolts and retorque also after you reassembled everything back together. Is this correct?
I was watching a video on ccw wheels website and read a couple things off club Lexus forums. I'm looking to get my wheels refinished so if you can recommend anything or a shop that i can ship them to or go please let me know. Thanks!
 
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Old Jul 22, 2012 | 07:12 PM
  #3925  
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Originally Posted by dominate
4DGS, thanks again for your advice regarding rolling fenders using revised Z or Z/G suspension on 245/45/18 on the rears. These are some pics with stock suspension, your advice looks on point. I'd be a little skeptical dropping the rears as is. The stance is mean though (In my opinion, not a fan of a lot of poke/camber). Yes my car is dirty it's been raining here = \
Looks good man!

Originally Posted by MPG35fiend
OK! now that I've decided on my wheels... What kind of camber should i run? currently running -1.2 in the front and -2.0 in the rear...


19x9.5+17
19x10.5+22

planning to get ACHILLES or one of the true/large running sized tire.

DPEs?

You're going to need roughly -4 out back if you don't plan to pull. But a very mild pull could get you into -3 degrees.

Front, just dump it and hope for the camber to be even, then just add spacers accordingly.

Originally Posted by MPG35fiend
ok Achilles doesn't make a 225/40.

does any body know how the GENERAL G-MAX are?

do they run small, true, or large??
Run true, supposedly the same as the old Genny Exclaims which use to be the go to tire for many.

Originally Posted by OH4G35
Got my fronts on 4DGS. Still working on the rears dialing in the negative camber and some more pull..Here is a crappy cell pic of the front though
Looks good man!

Originally Posted by jimmyboi860
Hey 4DGS, I have a question about removing the faces on the work Vsxx wheels. You just unscrew the 45 assembly bolts and the face should come right off right? Then I read you'd have to put loctite on the assembly bolts and retorque also after you reassembled everything back together. Is this correct?
I was watching a video on ccw wheels website and read a couple things off club Lexus forums. I'm looking to get my wheels refinished so if you can recommend anything or a shop that i can ship them to or go please let me know. Thanks!
Yea, you'll need to remove all the bolt in the face. Undo the nut, try to avoid putting any pressure on the bolt itself as the finish can sometimes chip off.

Then you will need to retorque then. You need to cross torque these so the face sits flush and the whole way around (cross torque I assume you know is one bolt, adjacent bolt, one bolt adjacent bolt) you will need to torque them twice, once at 15-20ft/lbs then again at 30-35ft/lbs. This really depends on the wheel hardware. Loctite isn't necessary but is sometimes a good idea. I usually only do a few bolts with loctite sometimes I use none.

Where are you located again? If you plan to take them apart your self any paint shop or powered coating places can refinish the faces. Just make sure they mask the back of the mounting flange, if they don't it makes taking them a part extremely difficult down the road.
 
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Old Jul 22, 2012 | 09:11 PM
  #3926  
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^ yea DPE Aristos... yea I'm already dumped! -1.2 up front and probably going to set it at -2. the rears are already -2.. hmm... maybe ill consider a slight pull to get it at -3... THANKS ONCE AGAiN!!!

 
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Old Jul 22, 2012 | 09:59 PM
  #3927  
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i forgot to ask.... is -4 in the rear usual? is it like a crazy camber to have?? wanted to know bc i probably won't do a pull.. gotta see how everything goes first... lmk guys thanks,.
 
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Old Jul 23, 2012 | 12:34 AM
  #3928  
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Originally Posted by 4DGS

Yea, you'll need to remove all the bolt in the face. Undo the nut, try to avoid putting any pressure on the bolt itself as the finish can sometimes chip off.

Then you will need to retorque then. You need to cross torque these so the face sits flush and the whole way around (cross torque I assume you know is one bolt, adjacent bolt, one bolt adjacent bolt) you will need to torque them twice, once at 15-20ft/lbs then again at 30-35ft/lbs. This really depends on the wheel hardware. Loctite isn't necessary but is sometimes a good idea. I usually only do a few bolts with loctite sometimes I use none.

Where are you located again? If you plan to take them apart your self any paint shop or powered coating places can refinish the faces. Just make sure they mask the back of the mounting flange, if they don't it makes taking them a part extremely difficult down the road.
I'm located in Hartford, CT. Surrounded by New York, New Jersey, Massachusetts.

Also, what can I do about getting the lips re polished Blain? I want to make the wheels look like brand new again.

Thanks.
 
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Old Jul 23, 2012 | 10:59 AM
  #3929  
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Size: 19x9.0 +41 offset / 19x10.0 +37 offset

would these specs be flush on a g35 coupe?
 
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Old Jul 23, 2012 | 11:01 AM
  #3930  
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Size: 19x9.0 +41 offset / 19x10.0 +37 offset
would those specs be flush on a g35 coupe?
would I Need spacers?
 
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