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[quote=Canadiotica;6525963]
looks really good! 
i have SPC on 18x8.5 245/40/18 all corners and the closest spec i can get with the rear camber arms and toe bolts is -2. before i put on SPC front camber arms was -2.3/-2.9 <--- really off and bad for on of my tires. Current camber as of now with SPC camber kits is -2.0 even on the rears and -1.2 even up front. i highly recommend the front camber arms!! look in my garage to see what model number the front SPC camber kit is bc its the only one that fit the "X". took me almost a year to find out something fit it...
oh yea BTW i would recommend matching -2 camber front and rear bc the -1.2 front is pretty flush, but bothers me that the rear doesn't match the camber up front. or at least do -1.5? I'm going to tweak my camber after wheel are on...
Hey sorry I missed it, can you post your question again?
Quick question.
Setup: 18x8.5 +25mm 245/40/18 on all four corners 05 G35x sedan on Bc racing coilovers lowered 3 inches all around.
Currently at -3.4 camber in rear and 2.9 camber in front from natural drop on stock arms front and back. Just ordered my Spc camber kit front and rear w/ toe bolt kit. I mostly want to get rid of some camber to get as flush as I can with rolled rear fenders.
Will the spc camber kit front and rear get rid of enough camber to get me flush or will I have to run wheel spacers to get my wheels out a bit more? If so what size? I just want to be as close to flush as possible with what I am working with =)
They are way more sunken than in this pic, I'll try and get a better pic tmrw. This was before they settled.
Quick question.
Setup: 18x8.5 +25mm 245/40/18 on all four corners 05 G35x sedan on Bc racing coilovers lowered 3 inches all around.
Currently at -3.4 camber in rear and 2.9 camber in front from natural drop on stock arms front and back. Just ordered my Spc camber kit front and rear w/ toe bolt kit. I mostly want to get rid of some camber to get as flush as I can with rolled rear fenders.
Will the spc camber kit front and rear get rid of enough camber to get me flush or will I have to run wheel spacers to get my wheels out a bit more? If so what size? I just want to be as close to flush as possible with what I am working with =)
They are way more sunken than in this pic, I'll try and get a better pic tmrw. This was before they settled.
i have SPC on 18x8.5 245/40/18 all corners and the closest spec i can get with the rear camber arms and toe bolts is -2. before i put on SPC front camber arms was -2.3/-2.9 <--- really off and bad for on of my tires. Current camber as of now with SPC camber kits is -2.0 even on the rears and -1.2 even up front. i highly recommend the front camber arms!! look in my garage to see what model number the front SPC camber kit is bc its the only one that fit the "X". took me almost a year to find out something fit it...
oh yea BTW i would recommend matching -2 camber front and rear bc the -1.2 front is pretty flush, but bothers me that the rear doesn't match the camber up front. or at least do -1.5? I'm going to tweak my camber after wheel are on...
Hey Blain, sorry bother you again =P
Found out yesterday that one of my the Work wheels has a leak coming from the bolts on the inside? That same wheel the previous owner had just replaced a new lip for it too, and he also did the disassembly/reassembly by himself.
Could it be that he reassembled it wrong or messed up somehow? I also was suspecting that something was wrong about the wheel because the silicone was kind of pealing as well and not smooth as the rest of the wheels. And I also know that it wasn't torqued down and no thread lock was used when i texted the previous owner.
I'm thinking about disassembling it and reassembling it myself. I've looked it up on how to do it and it looks fairly simple.
Couple of links I've read and seen:
http://youtu.be/M7FqNluXsY4
http://www.ccwheel.com/incs/technica...air_video.html
Or do you think I should leave it to the professionals?
What are your opinions? Any help with be great! Thanks again.
Found out yesterday that one of my the Work wheels has a leak coming from the bolts on the inside? That same wheel the previous owner had just replaced a new lip for it too, and he also did the disassembly/reassembly by himself.
Could it be that he reassembled it wrong or messed up somehow? I also was suspecting that something was wrong about the wheel because the silicone was kind of pealing as well and not smooth as the rest of the wheels. And I also know that it wasn't torqued down and no thread lock was used when i texted the previous owner.
I'm thinking about disassembling it and reassembling it myself. I've looked it up on how to do it and it looks fairly simple.
Couple of links I've read and seen:
http://youtu.be/M7FqNluXsY4
http://www.ccwheel.com/incs/technica...air_video.html
Or do you think I should leave it to the professionals?
What are your opinions? Any help with be great! Thanks again.
hahah.. secret homie!.. ill post it when it gets done....... it isn't any thing crazy.
Ok then you should be fine, just take your time and you want have any issues.
Registered User
iTrader: (5)
Any advantage or disadvantage going with OEM vs true?
Does either choice effect camber/toeing more than another?
It's pretty much two other guys and myself that answer all these questions. None of us run Varrstoens. You're better off asking Varrstoens if they have a non ugly option....
True coil can eventually add an actual toe arm but that' not needed if you're not tracking it or not planning to run tonnes of negative camber.
True coil can eventually add an actual toe arm but that' not needed if you're not tracking it or not planning to run tonnes of negative camber.
the DPEs recently bough had air leaks, damages faces and dirty as.s barrels, so i decided to get them all resealed... I'm pretty mechanically inclined and was about to do it myself bc the cheapest i could get all 4 wheels (to be on the safe side) was $200 a wheel.. Luckily i personally know someone that reconditions 3pc wheels here and getting them resealed, faces powder coated, barrels sandblasted, and tires mounted for $1050.. the process of resealing of the 3pc isn't that complicated, but its SUPER time consuming and VERY TECHNICAL. if you feel confidant to do it yourself then i would do it to save money, but if you want it done right without future issues id take it to the professionals... like i said I'm somewhat mechanically inclined, but i don't have the time to do it myself since i run a business and its a piece of mind that it will get done the way its suppose to be done plus i got a really SiCK hook up on it. getting a $1600 job for $1050.
$2800 after reconditioning for the DPE 3pc wheel compared to a NEW set of 3pc for $3500+ or a set of USED black Volks TE37s for the same price, but A LOT of ppl have TE37s or TE37 reps so i decided to go for the rarity.. Im just hoping the reconditioning of the DPEs turn out the way i expect...
Registered User
iTrader: (5)
Got the Stance cant wait to install them. This thread delivers! Thanks guys
LOL
cant wait to install them. This thread delivers! Thanks guysLOL
Last edited by SAMzG35; Aug 1, 2012 at 02:04 AM.
looking to replace my Hankook V12's on the front wheels and was wondering if Dunlop Direzza's are any good. i will have a slight stretch with a 225/35/19 on a 9 inch wheel, but nothing crazy. I wanted Nankang but I cannot find them locally. This is what i found for the dunlops $125/tire
http://www.discounttire.com/dtcs/fin...=AZEINT&cs=225
http://www.discounttire.com/dtcs/fin...=AZEINT&cs=225
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 805
Likes: 31
From: Salinas Ca
So i finally got wheels 20x10.5 +20 all around and im running 245-35-20 nitto nt 555's up front but im not sure what to go with in the rear 275, 285, 295... 35 or 30 idk. im on BC's with SPL pro camber with toe. Any ideas guys??? thx
Last edited by TougeMonsterG35; Aug 1, 2012 at 10:31 PM.