My tires must suck, correction they do suck. if I put my rears at anything more then 32 I hurt in traction and especially in the wet.

 

^^^ I was driving in the rain with that ~50psi. No slippage. Actually, one of my tires was completely flat. I had driven 120+ miles with zero psi in my front right tire. I didn't even notice. Those tires have some strong sidewalls. Before I left the house my tire looked a little low, but I figured it was because my wheel was turned. I stopped in Chiba and thought that tire really does look low. I checked it and nothing was in it.

This picture was taken in the hills/mountain in Chiba. As you can see the front tire looks a little low, but it doesn't look flat. Funny stuff. Here I still hadn't noticed. I drove another 25 miles to my destination

 

Those wheels look like 22's...they look huge for some reason.

 

Nope no 22's here. Maybe it's because I'm finally dropped...

 

Hydroplanning speed has a direct relationship with PSI as this is what sets the AREA of the contact patch.
What intermolecular force do you want between tire and road?

http://www.nlr.nl/id~4384/l~en.pdf
see why airplane tires are set at 100-220 psi

Obviously there is an ideal difference between wet and dry and ride vs performance.

 

You forgot the fact that airplanes can weigh 200 times what a G weighs...but you got your point across so it's all good...lol.

 

Here's something else to consider -- a tire's load rating. For the most part, you should be safe sticking with the OEM recommended pressures if your aftermarket tires have similar ratings.

But if you have Extra Load (XL) ratings, or even load ratings significantly higher than your OEM set-up, higher pressures are needed to take advantage of the XL ratings and such tires are built to accept higher pressures as well.

Case in point, assuming you have two tires of exact size, one is XL-rated, the other is not. The XL-rated tire will almost always be rated to handle higher pressures versus the non-XL tires. (e.g. 50psi vs. 44psi).