what type of rimsare better for performance?
#1
what type of rimsare better for performance?
I've got a few questions about rims reguarding performance. if anyone can help please do.
1. Are lighter rims better for racing? what companys make good/ the best performance rims?
2. does size matter? i heard that 19s would be the best for grip racing? is that true or is bigger better? would twenties handle better than 19s?
3. does width hinder performance? are wider rims better for the track or for canyon runs? would 19x9 in the front and 19x10 in the back be the best performance wise for grip canyon racing?
i would appreciate te help if anyone can contibute. thanx
1. Are lighter rims better for racing? what companys make good/ the best performance rims?
2. does size matter? i heard that 19s would be the best for grip racing? is that true or is bigger better? would twenties handle better than 19s?
3. does width hinder performance? are wider rims better for the track or for canyon runs? would 19x9 in the front and 19x10 in the back be the best performance wise for grip canyon racing?
i would appreciate te help if anyone can contibute. thanx
#2
Re: what type of rimsare better for performance?
Lighter rims are better for all performance applications as the unsprung weight is reduced enabling quicker response. Rays Wheels makes high quality rims for Nismo and Volk among others:
http://www.rayswheels.co.jp/emenu/wheel.html
Size does matter. Larger tire's (greater contact patch) enable you to get more traction allowing for better stopping and acceleration. However, this has to be balanced as poor tire combinations can result in increased/decreased oversteer or understeer. Wide tires also do not necessarily mean you can turn better, in some cases a narrower tire will allow for better steering.
The issue that you need to consider is this: more mass further away from the center (hub) of the wheel means you have a wheel/tire combination with an increased rotational moment of inertia. This means that it takes more for you to change the rotation of the tire, either to stop it or to get it started. An example of this is two wheel tire combinations, one on 18s and the other on 19s. All things being equal, the 19s would have more mass further away from the center of the tire resulting in a wheel that is less responsive than the 18s.
So you are now thinking get a very light wheel and that is true to a point. There are magnesium wheels made specifically for racing applications. They are very light and strong, but they are also very expensive. The second drawback is that they are not good for street applications as they are prone to cracking if you curb your wheels or hit some potholes.
As far as the best? You are better off taking classes to learn the car's limits. There is no magic ball to turn these cars into race cars because they aren't. Canyon racing is not a good idea unless it's a closed course and you are a very good driver, one mistake and you could be the Darwin candidate for the month.
One last item to consider. While the stock and Brembo brakes are pretty good, they are not racing application brakes. This combined with the weight of the car might mean you do not slow down as much as you did at the start of the run and end up on the Darwin award list again.
Whatever you decide to do, please be safe.
http://www.rayswheels.co.jp/emenu/wheel.html
Size does matter. Larger tire's (greater contact patch) enable you to get more traction allowing for better stopping and acceleration. However, this has to be balanced as poor tire combinations can result in increased/decreased oversteer or understeer. Wide tires also do not necessarily mean you can turn better, in some cases a narrower tire will allow for better steering.
The issue that you need to consider is this: more mass further away from the center (hub) of the wheel means you have a wheel/tire combination with an increased rotational moment of inertia. This means that it takes more for you to change the rotation of the tire, either to stop it or to get it started. An example of this is two wheel tire combinations, one on 18s and the other on 19s. All things being equal, the 19s would have more mass further away from the center of the tire resulting in a wheel that is less responsive than the 18s.
So you are now thinking get a very light wheel and that is true to a point. There are magnesium wheels made specifically for racing applications. They are very light and strong, but they are also very expensive. The second drawback is that they are not good for street applications as they are prone to cracking if you curb your wheels or hit some potholes.
As far as the best? You are better off taking classes to learn the car's limits. There is no magic ball to turn these cars into race cars because they aren't. Canyon racing is not a good idea unless it's a closed course and you are a very good driver, one mistake and you could be the Darwin candidate for the month.
One last item to consider. While the stock and Brembo brakes are pretty good, they are not racing application brakes. This combined with the weight of the car might mean you do not slow down as much as you did at the start of the run and end up on the Darwin award list again.
Whatever you decide to do, please be safe.
#3
Re: what type of rimsare better for performance?
Lighter rims are better for all performance applications as the unsprung weight is reduced enabling quicker response. Rays Wheels makes high quality rims for Nismo and Volk among others:
http://www.rayswheels.co.jp/emenu/wheel.html
Size does matter. Larger tire's (greater contact patch) enable you to get more traction allowing for better stopping and acceleration. However, this has to be balanced as poor tire combinations can result in increased/decreased oversteer or understeer. Wide tires also do not necessarily mean you can turn better, in some cases a narrower tire will allow for better steering.
The issue that you need to consider is this: more mass further away from the center (hub) of the wheel means you have a wheel/tire combination with an increased rotational moment of inertia. This means that it takes more for you to change the rotation of the tire, either to stop it or to get it started. An example of this is two wheel tire combinations, one on 18s and the other on 19s. All things being equal, the 19s would have more mass further away from the center of the tire resulting in a wheel that is less responsive than the 18s.
So you are now thinking get a very light wheel and that is true to a point. There are magnesium wheels made specifically for racing applications. They are very light and strong, but they are also very expensive. The second drawback is that they are not good for street applications as they are prone to cracking if you curb your wheels or hit some potholes.
As far as the best? You are better off taking classes to learn the car's limits. There is no magic ball to turn these cars into race cars because they aren't. Canyon racing is not a good idea unless it's a closed course and you are a very good driver, one mistake and you could be the Darwin candidate for the month.
One last item to consider. While the stock and Brembo brakes are pretty good, they are not racing application brakes. This combined with the weight of the car might mean you do not slow down as much as you did at the start of the run and end up on the Darwin award list again.
Whatever you decide to do, please be safe.
http://www.rayswheels.co.jp/emenu/wheel.html
Size does matter. Larger tire's (greater contact patch) enable you to get more traction allowing for better stopping and acceleration. However, this has to be balanced as poor tire combinations can result in increased/decreased oversteer or understeer. Wide tires also do not necessarily mean you can turn better, in some cases a narrower tire will allow for better steering.
The issue that you need to consider is this: more mass further away from the center (hub) of the wheel means you have a wheel/tire combination with an increased rotational moment of inertia. This means that it takes more for you to change the rotation of the tire, either to stop it or to get it started. An example of this is two wheel tire combinations, one on 18s and the other on 19s. All things being equal, the 19s would have more mass further away from the center of the tire resulting in a wheel that is less responsive than the 18s.
So you are now thinking get a very light wheel and that is true to a point. There are magnesium wheels made specifically for racing applications. They are very light and strong, but they are also very expensive. The second drawback is that they are not good for street applications as they are prone to cracking if you curb your wheels or hit some potholes.
As far as the best? You are better off taking classes to learn the car's limits. There is no magic ball to turn these cars into race cars because they aren't. Canyon racing is not a good idea unless it's a closed course and you are a very good driver, one mistake and you could be the Darwin candidate for the month.
One last item to consider. While the stock and Brembo brakes are pretty good, they are not racing application brakes. This combined with the weight of the car might mean you do not slow down as much as you did at the start of the run and end up on the Darwin award list again.
Whatever you decide to do, please be safe.
#4
Re: what type of rimsare better for performance?
Lighter rims are better for all performance applications as the unsprung weight is reduced enabling quicker response. Rays Wheels makes high quality rims for Nismo and Volk among others:
http://www.rayswheels.co.jp/emenu/wheel.html
Size does matter. Larger tire's (greater contact patch) enable you to get more traction allowing for better stopping and acceleration. However, this has to be balanced as poor tire combinations can result in increased/decreased oversteer or understeer. Wide tires also do not necessarily mean you can turn better, in some cases a narrower tire will allow for better steering.
The issue that you need to consider is this: more mass further away from the center of the wheel means you have a wheel/tire combination with an increased rotational moment of inertia. This means that it takes more for you to change the rotation of the tire, either to stop it or to get it started. An example of this is two wheel tire combinations, one on 18s and the other on 19s. All things being equal, the 19s would have more mass further away from the center of the tire resulting in a wheel that is less responsive than the 18s.
So you are now thinking get a very light wheel and that is true to a point. There are magnesium wheels made specifically for racing applications. They are very light and strong, but they are also very expensive. The second drawback is that they are not good for street applications as they are prone to cracking if you curb your wheels or hit some potholes.
As far as the best? You are better off taking classes to learn the car's limits. There is no magic ball to turn these cars into race cars because they aren't. Canyon racing is not a good idea unless it's a closed course and you are a very good driver, one mistake and you could be the Darwin candidate for the month.
One last item to consider. While the stock and Brembo brakes are pretty good, they are not racing application brakes. This combined with the weight of the car might mean you do not slow down as much as you did at the start of the run and end up on the Darwin award list again.
Whatever you decide to do, please be safe.
http://www.rayswheels.co.jp/emenu/wheel.html
Size does matter. Larger tire's (greater contact patch) enable you to get more traction allowing for better stopping and acceleration. However, this has to be balanced as poor tire combinations can result in increased/decreased oversteer or understeer. Wide tires also do not necessarily mean you can turn better, in some cases a narrower tire will allow for better steering.
The issue that you need to consider is this: more mass further away from the center of the wheel means you have a wheel/tire combination with an increased rotational moment of inertia. This means that it takes more for you to change the rotation of the tire, either to stop it or to get it started. An example of this is two wheel tire combinations, one on 18s and the other on 19s. All things being equal, the 19s would have more mass further away from the center of the tire resulting in a wheel that is less responsive than the 18s.
So you are now thinking get a very light wheel and that is true to a point. There are magnesium wheels made specifically for racing applications. They are very light and strong, but they are also very expensive. The second drawback is that they are not good for street applications as they are prone to cracking if you curb your wheels or hit some potholes.
As far as the best? You are better off taking classes to learn the car's limits. There is no magic ball to turn these cars into race cars because they aren't. Canyon racing is not a good idea unless it's a closed course and you are a very good driver, one mistake and you could be the Darwin candidate for the month.
One last item to consider. While the stock and Brembo brakes are pretty good, they are not racing application brakes. This combined with the weight of the car might mean you do not slow down as much as you did at the start of the run and end up on the Darwin award list again.
Whatever you decide to do, please be safe.
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