Last year I had a Viper 5904 installed. I used a FLCAN module, with tilt sensor, and glass break sensor. But i have been seeing a big loss in battery life. I replaced the battery with a costco one. And have already replaced that one under warranty once because it didn't fix my problem.

Alternator, and starter all checked out yesterday so my charging system is fine.

1st question is how do i test for a parasitic draw? I have never used a multimeter before? What are the settings needed?

2nd question what is a typical draw for a car alarm?

3rd how to confront the installer? I called him last year regarding the problem. He blamed my battery being bad. And that he had a customer have to replace it 5 times under warranty before his problem went away.

Tired of jumping my car all the time.

 

Usually it is because they tapped the wrong wire into a yellow wire (constant power) and it's causing this issue. I'm not familiar with G35 auto starts, where did he place the start module?

As for multimeter, is yours a simply a digital one with a tester for voltage, resistance, and amperage?

 

If you know where it is, take out the fuse that connects your alarm/auto start system to power. If your draw issue persists it's not the alarm (first and easiest check).

 

Well i just fried my multimeter. I was trying to test it at the house. I was reading a page online, set it to ac test, plugged my probes into the meter, and tried to test a socket and it went poof and my probe wire is now separated from the probe itself.

And no, i have no idea where the brain was installed.

 

Damn... Well Check above the kick panel on the drivers side. That seems to be a universal mounting location.

 

Well i had my wife pick up the free multimeter i broke from a harbor freight. But still have no idea how to use heres my multimeter. Which probe goes into what, and is my setting correct?

 

Google it. They Are almost all the same.

 

put your black probe into the COM location, and take your red probe and put it into the 10ADC location. Chances are the previous one that let the magic smoke out, the red probe was in the V(ohm)mA location and that is only rated to 200mA max, which isn't all that much.

Your remote start should not be pulling more than 50mA or you will have a problem. This could either be an installer error problem or a product problem. Let me know what that reading is once you get it figured out where the brain is.

Once you get the underdash apart follow the aftermarket wires that are coming from the ignition and you should be able to locate the brain for the remote start. You should have 2 or 3 fuses in those wires, those are the three main power wires for the unit so pull each fuse out (one at a time) and put each probe in where the blades of the fuse go in and see how much current each line is pulling at its dormant stage.

PM me and I can give you my number if you want me to walk you through it over the phone or need more help

 

So i did that and the cords got all hot and sparks was coming from the probe tips...no reading i had it set to 10A DCA, with red probe in the 10A insert.

And i was like im probably gonna go to a installer and have them do it. Im just gonna have to spend the money on a better multimeter anyways, why not let a pro do it for me.

I think its also the free multimeter i got. Both didnt work right