I have been in several threads disccusing oil so I felt I needed to make a post for M1 users. I am not bashing M1 just hoping to educate my fellow VQ people.


After I started to track my car, I began looking into information about the best oil to use. During my research I found several examples of M1 showing high lead content (bearing wear) in used oil analysis on Vq35 engines.

I know M1 is considered to be the best oil, but it never was a good oil for the Vq35 engine. Another reason to not use M1 would be that it is no longer a true synthetic. Several months ago they changed their formula.

Mobile1 is no longer a true synthetic

Mobil sued Castrol for calling their oil a full synthetic. Which according to Mobil it wasnt a full synthetic like M1 since its not made from a Group IV base stock.

They lost the case, so they decided to start using the cheaper base stock just like Castrol,pennzoil etc. Why make a real synthetic that costs you more money to make then the competition who is charging the same price for their fake synthetic?

German Castrol Syntec 0w-30, Amsoil, redline are some of the few remaining TRUE synthetics( Group IV). The other Castrol syntecs, penzzoil platinum and now Mobile 1 are not TRUE synthetics. They are hydrolocked Group III oils.

Here is an example of how even yellow bottled Pennzoil Dino outperformed M1 in our engine.



M1 used to be a great oil, now its an overpriced fake synthetic. My current fill is German Castrol Syntec 0w-30 (auto-zone only). Unlike the other castrol syntecs it is a true Group IV oil, here is an oil analysis on a G35 coupe. As you can see this oil shows very little wear after 7500 miles.


Element This Last 2nd to Last Universal
Sample Sample Sample Averages

Aluminum 2 1 2 3
Chromium 0 0 0 1
Iron 5 2 7 11
Copper 5 3 6 7
Lead 2 1 3 5
Tin 0 0 1 1
Moly 4 3 1 75
Nickel 0 0 0 0
Manganese 0 0 1 0
Silver 0 0 0 0
Titanium 0 0 0 0
Potassium 1 0 7 1
Boron 0 1 1 64
Silicon 8 7 9 11
Sodium 9 8 1 7
Calcium 2643 2504 2520 2296
Magnesium 106 111 103 115
Phosphorus 687 660 635 705
Zinc 857 762 789 840
Barium 0 0 0 0
- - -
TBN 2.6

==========================


Test : Vis Flash Fuel AFZ H2O INSOL
@210F Deg F % % % %

.
Shd Be: 58-65 >385 <2.0 0 <0.1 <0.6

.
This: 61.9 415 <0.5 0.0 0 0.3
Sampl

.

 

Thanks for the info! I also use german castrol for the g. great stuff!

 

Thanks for the info. I have been running mobil 1 5w-30 for about 30K miles now and no problems. I was thinking about changing to royal purple though.

-sean

 

yes I have seen many UOA of German castrol on our engines and with amazing results. I just picked up 20 bottles because I heard a rumor that it might not be available anymore. Lots of people are reporting their local autozone stopped stocking it

 

I was also running it because of its reputation, however a bit of research i learned it wasnt the ideal oil for our engine. Now that its no longer a true syn, never use it again. At least if they were going to go to a cheaper formula they could lower the price.

I would have never believed an oil company was greedy

 

damn I just did my oil change with M1. I guess I'll let it runs its course for the next 3 months or 3k miles. then I'll switch to amsol or see if I can find that german castrol stuff. If autozone stops stocking it, another place to look is super autobac for the socal people.

 

Also remember if you are running any synthetic oil, dont bother wasting your money with 3k oil changes. Any synthetic will run 5k miles. The castrol analysis I posted shows the oil in great shape @7500 miles. Amsoil is good for at least 15k miles

 

Oh good to know. So its fine to use 0W30 in our cars?

Also, what Amsoil do you guys use? There are so many on their site.

 

Greddy racing actually makes oil now, i believe you have to order it online though.

Has anyone used the Greddy or Royal Purple?

-sean

 

yes dont be fooled with the 0w rating.

copy and paste from teh German Castrol FAQ


Is it "thin"? Come on, 0w-30 has to be watery.


NO! Please don't completely buy into that myth.

At cold temps, the 0w weight correlates to cold cranking viscosity.
That means GC will still flow at cold temps. (Which is a good thing!)
At operating temps, the 30 weight is actually close to a 40 weight.
GC is one of the thickest 30 weight oils around.
I don't want to go into too much detail about this here. It can be very confusing.
My point is, GC is not "thin" in most temperatures that we use our cars in.

 

I guess I'll have to use that then. Thanks! Too bad I just poured some Mobile1 about 200 miles ago.

 

another reason to click onto driver.

good info..good find

 

I've run Royal Purple for the last 12 mos, I even replaced the trans and rear-end fluids w it and i've not noticed anything really (no news is good news?) Shifting into gears under extreme cold conditions seems to be a bit harder, but that could be because of my r.e. short shifter (only had it for 3 mos) but I think its more then that. Maybe a little less lifter clatter in the morning. I've never seen any "proof" that any one product is far superior to another, before I started using RP I used Castrol GTX synth blend for years and was happy with it. Can anybody provide any VALID info on this for me?
thanks

 

I will check the bobistheoilguy forum about the german castrol. So far the large autozones carry it for me.

 

Superautobacs doesnt carry the german castrol. If worse case pick it up at the bmw dealerships....