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  #1  
Old 05-16-2006, 02:34 PM
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Throttle Body: Coolant Bypass Mod

Has anyone done this? I'm thinking about using a 90deg barbed connector but wanted some feedback on what people have been using successfully.
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  #2  
Old 05-16-2006, 03:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BocaCoupe
Has anyone done this? I'm thinking about using a 90deg barbed connector but wanted some feedback on what people have been using successfully.
I noticed that you have the MREV+ noted in your sig . . . And as such, did you install either the Coolant Control Vavle or the Copper Heating Plate?

The CCV would be the most effective way of eliminating coolant heat to the plenum neck. The Copper Heating Plate does a good job of isolating the coolant heat from the plenum neck and transfering a minimal amount of coolant heat to the TB . . . Or am I misunderstanding your question?
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  #3  
Old 05-16-2006, 03:37 PM
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The copper heating plate was resting against the stock throttle body coolant piping. I was unsure if this was causing a sealing issue. Because of this I removed the copper heating plate and saw that the pipes from the copper plate had created an indentation on the factory pipes.

Basically I do not want to stop flow through the lines, so a CCV valve would not be ideal. I want the coolant to return to the engine through the system.
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Last edited by BocaCoupe; 05-16-2006 at 03:39 PM.
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  #4  
Old 05-16-2006, 06:12 PM
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just get any fitting that will go through it and some clamps, its not really a mod, we have been doing this for years. its more of a free first thing to do....
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  #5  
Old 05-16-2006, 06:51 PM
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Mod = Modification = the act of making something different
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  #6  
Old 05-16-2006, 08:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by audiblemayhem
just get any fitting that will go through it and some clamps, its not really a mod, we have been doing this for years. its more of a free first thing to do....

haha.
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  #7  
Old 12-20-2006, 04:02 PM
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Did you have to drain your coolant before you added the bypass? In the Skunk2 plenum directions, it says to do so.
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  #8  
Old 12-20-2006, 04:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marshall2K
Did you have to drain your coolant before you added the bypass? In the Skunk2 plenum directions, it says to do so.

I didn't. A little may come out but it's ok.
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  #9  
Old 12-20-2006, 04:12 PM
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cool thanks, i plan on doing it this evening. didnt want to waste new coolant i just put in last week. ill top it off if i lose any.
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  #10  
Old 12-20-2006, 06:09 PM
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I'm assuming Boca Raton? If so, no worries about TB freezing. If not, realize that the coolant is there for a reason. A stuck throttle plate can be unpleasant.
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  #11  
Old 12-20-2006, 07:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BocaCoupe
The copper heating plate was resting against the stock throttle body coolant piping. I was unsure if this was causing a sealing issue. Because of this I removed the copper heating plate and saw that the pipes from the copper plate had created an indentation on the factory pipes.
Were you experiencing any kind of vaccume leak?
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  #12  
Old 12-21-2006, 11:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ttrank
I didn't. A little may come out but it's ok.
+1... i just put a shop towel to absorb some coolant that'll drip out....
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  #13  
Old 01-16-2008, 01:55 AM
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Figured I would bump this up rather than start a new thread.

I'm going to be installing a 5/16" MDE spacer kit this weekend, however it isn't the Iso Thermal Kit. I originally had a Kinetix V+ plenum, but had issues with it due to a crack and other things. One thing I noticed though was that it came with a TB bypass that is different from the CCV that MDE has. Rather than being a valve which you insert before the plenum by cutting a piece out, the bypass was a copper fitting which you connected the two coolant lines to that usually connect to the lower rear portion of the plenum. So instead of the two lines going into the plenum, they hooked up to the bypass directly, leaving the two 'nipples' in the lower rear portion of the plenum unused.

So, since I'm only getting the basic kit, I was wondering if it would be worthwhile to make one of these bypass valves which acts as the CCV (except the ability to switch a valve open or closed), and skip getting the Aramid gasket, saving me $50. Or, should I just get the Iso Thermal kit? Secondly, if I DO decide to make the bypass, does anyone know the exact part that I would need to get (for example if I got it at Home Depot)? Thanks guys.

`John
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  #14  
Old 01-16-2008, 09:53 AM
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Are you saying you already have the Copper TB heater?

If yes, the only part you need is the Aramid gasket ($35) to complete the Iso Thermal system.
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  #15  
Old 01-16-2008, 11:24 AM
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Hey Hydrazine,

I'm not sure if you're talking about the copper TB bypass, or the copper TB gasket, but what I'm referring to is the TB Bypass, which is a two-sided copper fitting which the two coolant lines hook up to. Either way, I don't have it. I did have it when I had the Kinetix V+ plenum, but I sent that back to the seller, therefore I no longer have it.

What I'm asking is if I should bother making one, and if so, what exact part do I need to make it? Next, IF I go with the TB bypass, is it really necessary to get the Aramid gasket? Basically instead of paying $50 to get the Iso Thermal kit, I'm saying I can just make the TB bypass for $5 odd dollars and skip the aramid gasket, if it really isn't all that needed. Or, I can just skip them both and just install the basic spacer. I'm just not sure if it really matters if I get the Iso kit, because if I can save $50, I would prefer it.

`John
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Old 01-16-2008, 11:24 AM
 
 
 
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