G35x 2007 starts but won't stay running
#1
G35x 2007 starts but won't stay running
Car has 75K miles on it, drove to pick up my son from a sports event and turned the car off for about 10-15 minutes, was listening to the radio while off. Car drove fine getting there, when I went to start it back up the engine starts right up then immediately shuts off. The strangest thing I have ever seen. I get the check engine light so something is up but I have no idea what. Any ideas? I plan to head over where the car is today and clean both MAF sensors. Any way to reset the condition to clear out the problem? Thanks for any assistance.
#2
well if you can you really need to pull the codes. you should be able to do it without a reader, there should be some threads here. that is kind of weird....i'm sorry i don't have any immediate ideas. the codes will probably tell you right away though.
***edit
i think these are the instructions, i think it should be the same for the 08 models:
https://g35driver.com/forums/engine-...-infiniti.html
***edit
i think these are the instructions, i think it should be the same for the 08 models:
https://g35driver.com/forums/engine-...-infiniti.html
#4
Now your problem sounds like it has an idling issue. If your car, after starting it, can stay running so long as you give it and hold the gas, then you sir mostlikely just have a dirty throttle body. In our case, 2 of them.
If giving/holding more gas doesnt solve it, it is mostlikely a sensor issue, unplugged/loose harness, faulty MAF. Engine code should tell you.
Not sure on your mileage, but a dirty throttle body causes idling issues and stall outs as the idle air control valve/port gets gunked up from the recirc of the intake pipes.
Not to bore you with details but someone made a nice write up on here in the DIY about cleaning your throttle body (TB). I talk about this from experience on my other car (toyota) which would start up and choke itself out, and my buddy's acura. Both did the same thing. If/when you do it, be sure not to remove the wire harnesses on the tubes as you will have to do an idle relearn (alot of bs that can be avoided by warning you)
Hope that helps.
#5
K, first off, to reset CPU, pull the ground off the battery, wait a bit to bleed out then reattach. That will reset the CPU/codes/etc.
Now your problem sounds like it has an idling issue. If your car, after starting it, can stay running so long as you give it and hold the gas, then you sir most likely just have a dirty throttle body. In our case, 2 of them.
If giving/holding more gas doesnt solve it, it is most likely a sensor issue, unplugged/loose harness, faulty MAF. Engine code should tell you.
...
Johnny, I think you're information is sound, but perhaps your implied sequence is not helpful for the OP. You seem to be suggesting that he reset the ecu first(off), then move onto analyzing the running symptoms, observing tips to keep it running, and then lastly, if it's still unsolved, refer to the engine codes.
I think I might suggest pretty much the same, just in reverse order.
#6
ECU reset
First off the car only starts but immediately turns off...no idle condition what so ever, no throttle response, nothing. The ECU is detecting a faulty condition somewhere. Went to Pepboys and bought a code reader, plugged it in and the reader picked up 2 codes but they are Dealer/manufacturer specific. P1233..this is the only thing that exactly describes my condition. http://www.iatn.net/techmail/summari...P1233-dtc.html. My mechanic has the codes and is checking it out and maybe he can find out more information... I'm sure its likely a new throttle body or a TPS. I don't know if the 2 are sold separately or not. Anyone else have any additional info on this code?
#7
Trending Topics
#8
K, would that engine code be the one he would have deleted had he done an ecu reset first off?
Johnny, I think you're information is sound, but perhaps your implied sequence is not helpful for the OP. You seem to be suggesting that he reset the ecu first(off), then move onto analyzing the running symptoms, observing tips to keep it running, and then lastly, if it's still unsolved, refer to the engine codes.
I think I might suggest pretty much the same, just in reverse order.
Johnny, I think you're information is sound, but perhaps your implied sequence is not helpful for the OP. You seem to be suggesting that he reset the ecu first(off), then move onto analyzing the running symptoms, observing tips to keep it running, and then lastly, if it's still unsolved, refer to the engine codes.
I think I might suggest pretty much the same, just in reverse order.
Anyways:
Did a quick check and P1233 code coming from a nissan GTR (same type of engine/electronics/codes as ours) related to bad throttle bodies (or attached components ie:TPS) and needed replacement.
Good Luck, keep us informed.
#9
Same problem. Fixed easily
P1233 code came up around 76kmi, car starts but chokes out immediately.
Unplug battery, cleaned throttle body which was stuck, driver side. Reconnected everything back, now works as new. Didn't need to relearn idle.
Hope this helps someone, since the dealer wanted to rip me off and said I needed a new throttle body
Unplug battery, cleaned throttle body which was stuck, driver side. Reconnected everything back, now works as new. Didn't need to relearn idle.
Hope this helps someone, since the dealer wanted to rip me off and said I needed a new throttle body
#10
I have similar hot start issue with my 2008 G35xS with 60K miles but no MIL. Planning to clean TB's but wondering if anyone has turned ignition to ON position and floored accelerator (with assistant or 2 x 4) to open throttle plates before cleaning. Also wondering to TB's are removed, if gasket should be replaced.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Thaaa_king
Engine, Drivetrain & Forced-Induction
0
07-18-2015 05:56 PM