I would be very wary of that dealership if they will not release the (quantitative) results of the test that you hired them to do for you. I don't know how things work over in Korea, but that's just straight up crazy! I am assuming this is a Nissan dealership, right? Is there another one you can go to that might be more reasonable?

As far as undertaking the gasket job yourself, I strongly suggest you read carefully through the FSM (http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/G35/Sedan/2008/) and see all that is required to perform the procedure BEFORE you jump into it. I hate to unduly discourage you away from doing your own work here, as I always admire someone with that inclination, but it really is a formidable job, with lots and lots of steps involved. It basically tears the entire front of the engine apart, including all accessory systems that are in the way.

It is not difficult to do the oil pressure test yourself. I made a DIY thread here with some pointers that might help: https://g35driver.com/forums/v36-diy...-pressure.html Remember to carefully consider oil temperature and rpm's when checking oil pressure or will get incorrect/misleading results.

good luck!

 

No, there's no left-handed thread bolts on the huge timing cover. But there's a bunch of em. But the bolts are no issue anyway. The cover is attached all around with a line of RTV, and it's on really tight! You must have a gasket cutter to remove it, and it takes a long time. You have to prize the cover open enough to get the cutter in first, then tap it all the way around very carefully. The cover is quite thin, for its size, and if you just try to prize it off without cutting the RTV seal, you're likely to bend/ruin it. You need the gasket cutter anyway to remove the oil pan, which is also RTV'd on. Careful tapping the cutter around, as there is a mounting dowel on the far left & far right of the timing cover. Obviously, you can't tap the cutter through those. You must remove the cutter, then re-install it beyond the dowels to continue cutting the RTV seal. It's a bXtch, takes forever.

 

Hey. I solved the problem. The problem was gaskets. Now the sound is completely gone.
To accurately diagnose a problem, measures the oil pressure, as described here in the topic

 

How much was the repair?

 

Well finally brought my 2008 G35 back into the dealer for the P0011 code, it's been causing problems for over a year now. Quote was $1,500 labor alone to pull timing cover and inspect everything. Dealer called today to inform me the oil galley gasket is bad, causing the internal oil leak. He also says the sprockets need replacing, another $422 each!! OUCH! Total estimate is $2,600, but don't think I really have a choice as I don't know a local mechanic I can trust to tear my engine apart. Hopefully they will honor the 10% coupon! Not ready to part with my G35 -although the 2015 Q50 loaner is really sweet!! I just wish the manufacture would acknowledge sub-par gasket design or something and kick in part of the repair cost.

 

That's sucks that it's so expensive, but I think you're actually fortunate that there isn't even more damage than that, given the fact that you continued to drive the car with low oil pressure for an addition 1-1/2 years! You quite possibly could have been able to avoid the sprocket replacements if you had taken care of it when it first came up back in 2014.

 

I guess it could've been worse, but when the dealer first looked at car they suspected back then the sprockets were bad. They did point out yesterday that there was NO sludge buildup inside.

 

So I installed the oil pressure sensor that vqsmile provided a GREAT write up for (thanks for that). After reading some posts I still can't draw a conclusion on whether I'm actually encountering the problem of low oil pressure. At 2k RPM, I'm reading about 43 psi - but at idle (~650), I'm getting around 9 psi. I would mention that this is at fully warmed up (as opposed to estimating 173 degree) temps, and I'm wondering if that would be considered normal once the car reaches full running temps - or if it;s just a matter of time before it throws an error code.

I should add that the car has never triggered the engine light, but I'm 111.5k miles currently. It's a 2007 G35 Sport that's been very well maintained and rarely pushed hard. Have owned it since 29k when I bought it as a CPO.

Local dealer (Smith Infiniti) quoted me around $2200 to do the gasket pair swap (along with a new water pump).

BTW I installed the gauge in my glovebox so it would stay out of the way. I attached a pic in case anyone is considering installing one.

 

Well, that does sound a bit low. Lots of people have noted that their car had significantly more than 14 psi at idle when fully warmed up, but every car is a bit different so I can't say that it is definitely your gaskets. Before you leap into a tear-down, you might want to first verify the gauge, the oil (age,viscosity,etc.), and the oil filter. At least you can keep an eye on it to see if it progresses at all.

 

I would just wait until you get triggered a service engine soon light to get it fixed.

 

Okay, I'm back with an update for my gen 1 2004 350Z roadster. I finally had the extra money and a week vacation saved up, so I just caved and took it to a shop to see what they said about it. Apparently, my engine was leaking like a government secret, from a lot of unseen locations. They ended up replacing nearly every gasket they could find, resealing the oil pan, replacing the oil pressure sensor (again! this is my FOURTH one), replacing the oil & oil filter, and sending me back on my way in around ~7-8 hours (dropped it off first thing on a Monday morning, had it back by close of business the same day.)

I think in total, the bill was just shy of $1100 (McGee's in Tampa, FL) but I've been driving it for around 3 months now and it's running like a champ, no oil leaks, no thrown codes, and no issues (minus one incident where my tranny slipped a gear and went into limp mode, but I believe a particularly rainy Florida evening + hours of driving + no underbelly shroud + wet shift solenoid was to blame for that, since I let it dry off and cleared the codes the next morning and it hasn't come back.)

So if we've learned anything, it seems to be that low oil pressure is definitely the cause of most of the issues in this thread, even though those particular oil gallery gaskets mentioned are not on every model. If you have a gen 1 and are having any of these issues mentioned, do yourself a favor and have the oil pressure checked, and prepare to put in the work and/or money to restore your car back to its former glory. Hopefully this long ordeal helps someone out in the future!

 

Replaced bank 2 camshaft position sensor after stalling out no CEL at first then tripped p0345.

Then p0021 came on after stepping on gas, checking and changing oil, then replacing VVT solenoids resulted in no change.

Wound up being a bad new sensor, replaced with another new sensor and was back in the game, the first sensor must have been dropped is what I was told.

 

It looks i'm going to bite the bullet and fix this issue. There are reputable Infiniti/Nissan shops in SoCal, and I'd rather go to people I trust than the dealership. With the exception of the loaner and getting ripped off, is there an advantage of going to a dealership?

 

A competent indy shop should be fine, but a Nissan or Infiniti dealership will have undoubtedly seen more and done more similar repairs. Experience counts for quite a bit, but $$$ talks too. As far as a loaner goes, most of these cars are well out of warranty anymore (even the extended), so loaner cars are probably not free either way.

 

Hey are you still on this forum? Could use your help. I'm having this issue and I have a 2003 g35..replaced all sensors but I noticed you said we don't have the bad gaskets, am I correct bc that's what I was aiming for next.