Oh and the Dodo wax will be here today!
http://www.detailedimage.com/Dodo-Ju...-Wax-Kit-P242/


Right now I have two coats of Natty's Red on my car. Should I let it wear down or remove it before the Dodo? I would like to try it out before the end of the month.

 

Hey George,

I have both of these products and have had good results but have a question. Does the Prestine Clean also condition the leather or does that come from the Rejuvenator Oil? Most products on the market today use a cleaner first followed by a conditioner and this one is different. To be honest, the first couple times I used it, I used the oil after the clean because I thought that was the process.

I'm going to do my seats this weekend so I remembered to ask.

PS, just placed another order. Your site is addicting! I have spent $500 there this year so far!


-Tim

 

Well, wish me luck on this one. The person who owns this car really does not drive it. It has less than 17k miles on it. They own way too many vehicles, which you can tell in the back ground of thier main office. I did a 4 stage exterior detail to his BMW 850I that sites right next to the Jaguar. I did the BMW over a month ago and he just lets it site in the covered parking at his company. Ugh... Poor luxury cars.

When you look at the pictures below, of the Jaguar, you will understand that they never drive it.

If anyone has a thought they wish to provide to me, please pm me. I always use Menzerna products. I use the Clay Magic from Auto Majic here in deep South Texas.

Stephen










This is where the owner parked the BMW 850I for over a month. This is what it looks like now. Poor BMW.

 

Good question. Here's what's going to happen with the clear bra. If you don't polish away imperfections prior to installing the clear bra, then you're going to seal those imperfections in under it. By imperfections I mean, swirls, scratches, water spots, oxidation, etc. So if you were to polish the paint around your clear bra, and your paint under the clear bra could have benefited from the polish, then yes, your paint will look glossier than the clear bra. Another common complaint about detailing and clear bras is that excess product can build up around the edges of the clear bra and can easily show the outline of the protection. I personally am not a big fan of clear bras and would rather deal with the rock chips (which I can touch up myself decently). Hope this helps.

Menzerna polishes are used by many high end professional detailers and are considered the standard in the industry. If Menzerna is an option, I'd almost always turn to their polishes. I've always had better luck with Menzerna polishes compared to Poorboy's polishes and other polishes I've tried. The new formulation of the Optimum polishes are also very good too, especially for mobile detailers or enthusiasts who have to polish outside.

I think you'll have a tough time removing those imperfections with SSR2 and SSR1. I personally never got outstanding paint correction with the Poorboy's polishes, even on a PC. SSR 2 is not very aggressive at all, something like a 3.5 on a scale of 1 to 10. SSR 1 is like a 1. I'd use SSR 2 with a white or green pad and SSR 1 with a white or black pad.

For some reason I thought you were using a Flex. Essentially the Flex has a much bigger motor than the PC and it incorporates forced rotation, so it has OPMs and RPMs, where the PC just has OPMs (oscillations per minute). The Flex motor can generate 9,600 OPMs compared to 6,000 OPM's with the PC. The forced rotation generates up to 480 RPM at full speed, still making it paint safe. Another major feature I love is the ergonomics of the hand positioning as well as the variable speed trigger. This allows you to tone down the speed at your fingertip and ramp the speed back up when needed. It's nice when spreading the polish initially, then working it full speed. The only real downside of the Flex is that there aren't any replacement backing plates for various sized pads. As mentioned in the post you quoted, it'll correct twice as many imperfections as the PC in half the time. You'll also be able to tackle deeper imperfections that the PC simply can't handle. After using the Flex, the PC will feel like a toy in your hands.

If I'm not mistaken, you have some FMJ under the Natty's correct? If you wanted to remove the Natty's unfortunately, you'd be removing the FMJ protection as well. It's really up to you if you want to wait out a few more weeks for the Natty's to wear off, or strip it down and start fresh.

Yes, if your seats are in good shape, Prestine Clean will mildly condition your seats as well as clean them. Also, you are correct, you use the Rejuvenator Oil first, which helps deeply penetrate the leather and raise the contamination to the surface, then you remove the mess with Prestine Clean.

If you enjoy our site now, wait a few weeks when we launch our revamped site we've been working on for months. It simply blows the doors off our current site and gives us the ability to bring everyone a lot more content, new features and a lot more. Lot's of great stuff planned for '09, we wouldn't be able to do this without the support of our loyal customers. Thanks again Tim.

Best of luck, if you have any specific questions on anything, please do not hesitate to ask. Looks like you got your work cut out for you on those details.

Cheers,

George

 

Thanks George. I'm starting to hate you my friend... now I need to get a Flex...

Does the flex take the same pads or do I need ot buy new pads too?

 

I want to know if there is a link that shows one how to fix chips/scratches on a vehicles paint? The Jag has several chips on the passenger side of the car. One of my good friends who manages a body shop is going to show me how to do it in the near future. I wish to see it done on video as well. If there is such a link, please let me know.

Stephen

 

If you were using the 6.5" pads we sell, then you can use the same pads on the Flex.

I don't have any video links off of the top of my head, but the gist of fixing chips is the following:

- Clean out the chip using a degreaser or isopropyl alcohol
- Thinly apply touch up paint to the affected area
- Let that paint dry / cure
- Continue to reapply until there is enough paint covering the chip as well as bubbling over the existing paint
- Starting with somewhere around 1500 grit sand paper, wet sand the blob down even with the rest of the paint
- Finish with as high of grit sand paper you can find (2000 - 3000 is good)
- Remove the wet sanding marks by polishing the paint (usually a medium cutting polish or a compound is needed)
- Restore the finish to maximum depth and gloss with a finishing polish
- Protect the area you just worked on with a sealant or wax

Hope that helps.

George

 

hi! just ran into this:
http://www.detailedimage.com/Optimum...pti-Seal-P279/

is it really as good as it says it is? sounds pretty useful

 

It's one of the easiest products to use to protect your paint for extended periods of time. I recommend using the supplied applicator to apply a thinner coat, but some detailers literally will spray it on and walk away. I find with that method, when too much product is used, you can see some haze / streaks that just need a quick wipe with a quality microfiber towel.

Leaves behind a great shine as well. Considering it's on sale today as a Daily Special, now's the best time to give it a shot.

George

 

oooh great, thanks!

 

Hey George,

So admittedly, I’m a detailing noob and I want to change that and have my car looking great for summertime. So I spent a LOT of time reading the great info on this board about the proper techniques and products to use. I’m about to pick up your PC starter kit and polish/protection starter kit very soon, and was just hoping you could go over my plan and see what you think…

So here’s my full detail plan in order and products for each step even though I won’t be able to get to it until probably late April (crappy Canadian weather)…

BTW, I drive an 04 OB sedan if that helps with your assessment of the products…

Wash and Dry (2 bucket method):
- Poorboys super slick and suds
- 2 sheepskin mitts (1 for upper and 1 for lower panels)
- 2 buckets w/grit guards
- Waffle weave drying towel
Windows:
- Stoner invisible glass
Wheels:
- Eagle one cleaner
- Wheel wax
- Tire dressing (unchosen)
Clay:
- Clay magic fine grade
- Poorboys spray and wipe
2 step polish with a PC7424 and Lake country pads:
- Orange pad + Menzerna intensive polish
- White pad + Menzerna final polish II
Sealant/Wax:
- Poorboys Ex-P Sealant
- Natty’s Blue wax
Interior:
- Poorboys leather stuff
- 303 protectant

AMIDOINITRITE??


Couple of questions:

1) Being a complete noob to polishing and the PC, I’m not sure I can get the exterior done in one day. What would be the best way to split it up if need be? After the medium polish? Final polish? After sealing? Does it even matter? Also, would I need to rewash and clay again before I continue?
2) Should I wipe down the car with the alcohol/water mixture after the 1st and 2nd phase of polishing or will it suffice to do it after just the finishing phase?
3) would the orange pad + ip work well enough for more heavy scratches? Would I be able to just do two passes for the areas of my car that have heavier scratches? Or would I need a more aggressive polish (SIP) to combo with the yellow pad?
4) What pad should I use to apply the sealant and at what speed? After I apply the sealant, should I wait before applying the wax? How long generally?
5) More on the maintenance side…is it cool just to throw the all used microfibres in the laundry together? What about the washmitt? Is it important to clean them right away? Are those special mf detergents worth it?


Probably more to come as I actually get ready to detail the car come April. Thanks in advance!

Jon

 

hey georger what do you think about pinnacle sovern products for swirls when applyied with a pc

 

If you have any other questions on anything, let me know

Thanks Jon, if you have any other questions on anything, please do not hesitate to ask.

I haven't used the Pinnacle polishes so I cannot comment on their performance. They are most noted for their waxes.

George

 

George, got the Dodo last week. Going to wait until later this month and the Natty's red has warn down before I get started.
I'm excited to see what wax of this caliber can deliver.

 

hey whats up i have a few questions as always lol, i want my car to look extremly wet i use meguires tech wax now and its ok but dont last so what products can i sue to make my car look wet???