Does using higher viscosity (i.e. 10-30w) or synthetics oil help reduce the consumption? Or using something like LUCAS oil stabilizer? Has anyone tried these methods?

 

Really? More than the G35? I doubt that.

Over 9 recalls, and over 90 TSB's.

 

For Infiniti and Nissan owners getting replacements, make sure your dealer knows about this TSB procedure.

For Infiniti
ITB09-067.pdf

For Nissan
NTB09-141.pdf


To late for me and probably explains my valvetrain issue on my replacement. Mine was done back in 2008 before this TSB release.

 

So no one has any experience with using synthetic oils, higher viscosity oil, or oil stabilizer (i.e. lucas)?

The service rep at inifiniti said that it would consume more oil if I used synthetic as its thinner. But as far as I know, it takes longer to breakdown synthetic oil than conventional. Any thoughts guys?

 

^Your answer is somewhere in these:
https://g35driver.com/forums/tsb-tec...ption-tsb.html
https://g35driver.com/forums/g-spot/...-your-oil.html
http://www.my350z.com/forum/engine-a...iscussion.html

 

It's debatable that conventional oil is consumed at a faster rate than synthetic. However there are some known factors like "the rate of oil consumption you are experiencing." Are you burning more than 1qt of oil per 5,000mi? If so it couldn't hurt to to change to a 10W-30 or 10W-40 Castrol GTX or Penzoil Yellow bottle. It's cheaper to top off with dino oil and those oils (in 5W-30) have great lab results within a 5,000mi service life. I have random searched the internet and one strategy mentioned during a Ford racing build was using a slightly thicker oil to see if consumption decreases. It won't correct a major "defect" within manufacturing or design however.

I have read on more than one occassion on bobistheoilguy, here and my350z forums that oil additives are probably not a good idea. If you are going to conservatively treat this why not try the thickest conventional oil you're comfortable using and tell us your result. Then if nothing else works try the additive for a short duration. Let us know.

Since my motor is consuming ~1qt per 5,000mi and dealers refuse to swap my motor I'm content to just top off with my usual fill of German Castrol Syntec 0W-30 or Mobil 1 0W-40. I'm convinced it's the design of this particular motor that causes it to consume oil and an engine swap has more risk involved than it's worth (in my case). We're not the only high performance make to experience oil consumption due to design. Sorry to the guys using more than 1qt per 1,000mi!

 

I just talked to my dealer and they are working with me since i suspect that i might be affected.
I had my oil changed then next oil change i was way low. Dealer is going to give me a free oil change and monitor my oil consumption after 1000 or 1500 miles.

He confirm if there is an oil issue they will replace my engine

 

I just have a question to those who got their engine replaced. I had mine replaced 4000km ago and it is still burning oil. Is it normal for a new engine to burn oil? did you guys experience the same thing?

 

how much is it burning?

 

its a bit over 1qt down

 

yeah id take it back asap

 

4000km's = 2485 miles per quart. Yup definitely in the 'No Good' on chart. It's a fail.

 

Anyone here ever notice if one particular brand get's more consumption from the motor? I've been using GC 0W-30 all year and I've had to top it off twice this particular service interval. I go as close to 5,000mi service intervals as I can, but repeatedly topping off the oil keeps it fresher I suppose. My motor may be getting worse... But the summer is particularly hot and I run the motor through a wide variety of rpm. I keep thinking the oil has a lighter viscosity right from startup and that has something to do with increased usage. Or it could be denial lol.

 

^Back with my old original burner it consumed the same rate with Amsoil or Castrol, Synth or Dino, 0w-30, 5w-30, even 10w-30.

A good Tribologist (not Blackstone Labs) would be able to determine if it's bad metallurgy (defective) or not. If defective, no oil will be better than another far as OC is concerned. UOA's will tell a lot and what's up with just yours. If not a defective VQ, there are oils that can help with OC, but I'm not at liberty to disclose those (paid proprietary info my end sorry).

 

Im losing about 10mm on dipstick every 1200 miles. I know its not near as much as some people but if Im reading this chart right under 1000-1500 miles anything lower than 7mm on dip stick is too low right?