Speaker and install time question!
#1
03-28-2007, 09:03 AM
Speaker and install time question!
If I changed my head unit and changed the factory bose AMP would i be able to use the factory bose speakers still in the car? i cant remeber where i read it on here but somone wrote that it wouldn't cause the bose speakers run @ 2 Ohm?
also for someone that has had there sysmtem professionally installed ( just the HU) how long did they say it would take. I went to a place to get it done made the appointment they told me at least 4 times it would only take 3 hours....with two days left they called me saying that it would take double the time(6 hours) i thought that was crazy! what do you guys think?
also for someone that has had there sysmtem professionally installed ( just the HU) how long did they say it would take. I went to a place to get it done made the appointment they told me at least 4 times it would only take 3 hours....with two days left they called me saying that it would take double the time(6 hours) i thought that was crazy! what do you guys think?
#2
03-28-2007, 10:59 AM
Using the 2 ohm Bose speakers will work if you get an amp that is designed to work well with 2 ohm speakers. But if you apply any volume to the stock speakers with an aftermarket amp, you're going to end up replacing them anyway. They you'll say, I should have done this in the first place.
About the HU install, are you supplying them with the JDM trim piece and AC controller? Do you know that you need them? No all shops know aboutthose parts.
If you just change the HU and use the JDM parts, with standard harness adapter plugs and the antenna plug, I don't think 6 hours is reasonable. 3-4 hours is reasonable, especially if you install a PAC adapter for the steering wheel.
About the HU install, are you supplying them with the JDM trim piece and AC controller? Do you know that you need them? No all shops know aboutthose parts.
If you just change the HU and use the JDM parts, with standard harness adapter plugs and the antenna plug, I don't think 6 hours is reasonable. 3-4 hours is reasonable, especially if you install a PAC adapter for the steering wheel.
#3
03-28-2007, 11:42 AM
#5
03-28-2007, 09:20 PM
i think i will be the soldering of the dual climate button someone else I know will take care of. i lnow where the VSS wire connection is. i just need to figure out if i want to replace everything or just the HU for now..i do have a budget (my wife 
)
where online can i get the amp intergration harness and wire harness again?
) where online can i get the amp intergration harness and wire harness again?
#7
03-28-2007, 09:50 PM
Trending Topics
#8
03-28-2007, 10:42 PM
You don't want to do an amp intergration. Sucks. TO do the bypass shouldn't take that long if the installer knows what hes doing. Depending on what you have, such as stock navi and want it to work, It can take up to 6 hours at the most to do everything right and nice. You don't want fast and ****ty. Realisticly for a HU and 4sp and amp bypass 3hours at the least 5 at the most depending on how busy a shop gets.
#9
03-28-2007, 11:20 PM
Originally Posted by jayjayg35
If I changed my head unit and changed the factory bose AMP would i be able to use the factory bose speakers still in the car? i cant remeber where i read it on here but somone wrote that it wouldn't cause the bose speakers run @ 2 Ohm?
also for someone that has had there sysmtem professionally installed ( just the HU) how long did they say it would take. I went to a place to get it done made the appointment they told me at least 4 times it would only take 3 hours....with two days left they called me saying that it would take double the time(6 hours) i thought that was crazy! what do you guys think?
also for someone that has had there sysmtem professionally installed ( just the HU) how long did they say it would take. I went to a place to get it done made the appointment they told me at least 4 times it would only take 3 hours....with two days left they called me saying that it would take double the time(6 hours) i thought that was crazy! what do you guys think?
It would sound like as@. you would quickly find out that throwing
those speakers away would be your best friend. Once the HU is out
its time to rock n roll with clairty..imo
#10
03-29-2007, 09:08 AM
so i should by pass the amp then ? how do you go about doing that cause im doing this by myself now
i'm pissed at the local car audio shops here where i live , feels like they're trying to gouge me. i show them all the parts and all they do is humm and hahh about everything i figure i can have the car off the road for a week , 2,3weeks if i want i have my winter car i can drive i just want this started and in soon.
i'm pissed at the local car audio shops here where i live , feels like they're trying to gouge me. i show them all the parts and all they do is humm and hahh about everything i figure i can have the car off the road for a week , 2,3weeks if i want i have my winter car i can drive i just want this started and in soon.
#11
03-29-2007, 09:44 AM
IMO, the amp is the worst part of the system. Keep the stock head unit and Bose speakers if you must, but ditch the Bose amp. Then replace the speakers. The head unit should be the last piece to go.
Here are the wiring colors for the bose system at the amp.
Take the audio signal wires from the head unit and cut an RCA cable to splice into the right and left + and - wires from the HU. Then feed that into the RCA input of your amp. BTW, the signal coming from the Bose HU is balanced, so if you don't have an amp, get one that accepts balanced line inputs.
Cut the wires going to the speakers and connect them to your new amp.
Here are the wiring colors for the bose system at the amp.
BOSE WIRING COLORS AND SPEAKER SIZES
Factory speaker harness wiring colors
Front Right + Gray/Silver
Front Right - Yellow/Silver
Front Left + Green/Silver
Front Left - Red/Silver
Rear Door Right + Brown/Silver
Rear Door Right - Black/Silver
Rear Door Left + Green/Yellow
Rear Door Left - Black/Yellow
Rear Deck Right + Blue/Red
Rear Deck Right - Blue/White
Rear Deck Left + Blue/Yellow
Rear Deck Left - White/Green
Head unit output colors
The (+) are all on the same side of the connector.
Head Output Front Right + Orange/Blue
Head Output Front Right - White/Blue
Head Output Front Left + White
Head Output Front Left - Orange
Head Output Rear Right + Blue
Head Output Rear Right - Pink
Head Output Rear Left + Teal
Head Output Rear Left - Purple
Remote Wire Light Blue/ Silver
BOSE SPEAKER SIZES
The tweeters are exactly 5/8" deep and about 1-5/8" in diameter (at the largest point).
You don't have to take the whole door off to get to them to look (you would to disconnect the wires). Just pop off the clips that hold the black plastic panel down.
I also know that Infinity Kappa Perfect 6.1 tweeters fit, as do the tweeters from the MB Quart PCE 216 set.
With the lower door speakers, the stock measurements are: 6-3/8" in dia. with 2.5" of depth.
I think just about any 6.5" speaker will fit, but holes will have to be drilled (Roll up the window first) for any.
The rear side speakers are EXACTLY the same as the lower door speakers. Same part number and everything. Strangely there is no tweeter (or even a cone) on any speaker in the back. See my other thread about possible mounting depths. I made a spacer but there were other great ideas on how to mount better speakers back there.
The 6" X 9" speakers in the rear deck are: 6.5" X 9-3/16" and 3-3/8" deep. Again, I think any 6X9 will fit here.
These are all standard six openings and any install shop can easily do this. If you are doing it yourself, I recommend buying a new 3/16" or 1/8" titanium (for metal drilling, I used Bosch brand from Home Depot, a couple bucks) drill bit. Just drills alot easier through metal in the doors.
As for the screw hole dimensions... just drill. Infiniti uses a weird 3 hole set up for their 6.5" mid ranges that you won't ever match up exactly.
The tweeter will be held down by the stock metal bracket. If your new tweeters are a little loose in the bracket, wrap them in weather stripping or something similar.
The 6" X 9" speakers are standard mounts in the four "corners" of the speakers.
Factory speaker harness wiring colors
Front Right + Gray/Silver
Front Right - Yellow/Silver
Front Left + Green/Silver
Front Left - Red/Silver
Rear Door Right + Brown/Silver
Rear Door Right - Black/Silver
Rear Door Left + Green/Yellow
Rear Door Left - Black/Yellow
Rear Deck Right + Blue/Red
Rear Deck Right - Blue/White
Rear Deck Left + Blue/Yellow
Rear Deck Left - White/Green
Head unit output colors
The (+) are all on the same side of the connector.
Head Output Front Right + Orange/Blue
Head Output Front Right - White/Blue
Head Output Front Left + White
Head Output Front Left - Orange
Head Output Rear Right + Blue
Head Output Rear Right - Pink
Head Output Rear Left + Teal
Head Output Rear Left - Purple
Remote Wire Light Blue/ Silver
BOSE SPEAKER SIZES
The tweeters are exactly 5/8" deep and about 1-5/8" in diameter (at the largest point).
You don't have to take the whole door off to get to them to look (you would to disconnect the wires). Just pop off the clips that hold the black plastic panel down.
I also know that Infinity Kappa Perfect 6.1 tweeters fit, as do the tweeters from the MB Quart PCE 216 set.
With the lower door speakers, the stock measurements are: 6-3/8" in dia. with 2.5" of depth.
I think just about any 6.5" speaker will fit, but holes will have to be drilled (Roll up the window first) for any.
The rear side speakers are EXACTLY the same as the lower door speakers. Same part number and everything. Strangely there is no tweeter (or even a cone) on any speaker in the back. See my other thread about possible mounting depths. I made a spacer but there were other great ideas on how to mount better speakers back there.
The 6" X 9" speakers in the rear deck are: 6.5" X 9-3/16" and 3-3/8" deep. Again, I think any 6X9 will fit here.
These are all standard six openings and any install shop can easily do this. If you are doing it yourself, I recommend buying a new 3/16" or 1/8" titanium (for metal drilling, I used Bosch brand from Home Depot, a couple bucks) drill bit. Just drills alot easier through metal in the doors.
As for the screw hole dimensions... just drill. Infiniti uses a weird 3 hole set up for their 6.5" mid ranges that you won't ever match up exactly.
The tweeter will be held down by the stock metal bracket. If your new tweeters are a little loose in the bracket, wrap them in weather stripping or something similar.
The 6" X 9" speakers are standard mounts in the four "corners" of the speakers.
Cut the wires going to the speakers and connect them to your new amp.
#12
03-29-2007, 10:25 AM
Nice info GIlley.
One quick question though. I noticed that there is only 1 set of rear speaker wires going into the bose amp, but 2 sets coming out (one for 6.5" and one for 6x9). Is this correct or did I miss something. If this is true how would I go about hooking up an amp to run all 4 rear speakers?
Edit: This is for a coupe btw, not sure if that makes a difference.
One quick question though. I noticed that there is only 1 set of rear speaker wires going into the bose amp, but 2 sets coming out (one for 6.5" and one for 6x9). Is this correct or did I miss something. If this is true how would I go about hooking up an amp to run all 4 rear speakers?
Edit: This is for a coupe btw, not sure if that makes a difference.
#13
03-29-2007, 11:41 AM
#14
03-29-2007, 01:39 PM
#15
03-29-2007, 01:50 PM
Gilley do you splice the RCA wires into the head unit harness or the speaker wire harness to run the front door and rear deck speakers?
Originally Posted by Gilley
Take the audio signal wires from the head unit and cut an RCA cable to splice into the right and left + and - wires from the HU. Then feed that into the RCA input of your amp. BTW, the signal coming from the Bose HU is balanced, so if you don't have an amp, get one that accepts balanced line inputs.
Cut the wires going to the speakers and connect them to your new amp.
Cut the wires going to the speakers and connect them to your new amp.