How To Install A Sub In A G sedan Using Stock Bose System
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Joined: Apr 2009
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As far as RCAs go, go with a brand name cable you recognize, so you get a quality built cable, but you don't really need a top of the line cable. I'm running the entry level Rockford Fosgate RCAs. When it comes to my personal listening preferences, I can't tell the difference between the cables i'm using now and a $100 pair when it comes to sound quality out of the sub.
In my experience, what you can find at your local Best Buy/Audio shop is good enough for the average Joe.
In my experience, what you can find at your local Best Buy/Audio shop is good enough for the average Joe.
Which alpine amp do you have hooked up?
is the sound quality ok since u are getting the signal after it leaves the bose amp?
I have since upgraded to a Z2, but the sound quality was by no means poor. I'm running a alpine mrp-m500 pushing a 12" Type R. On the stock deck, I had the bass set at -4 and the gain on the amp was about 1/4 of the way up, and it was hitting HARD. Border line too much lol. That being due to the fact that there is no separate sub volume control like you have on many aftermarket decks.
To be honest, for the 2 months I was on the stock stereo, I would spend most of my time with the setting at -6(or whatever all the way down is, don't remember) and at normal listening level like volume 6-12, it provided PLENTY of thump in the trunk. I'm not the one you hear knocking down the street rattling windows and lamp shades. To me that's too much, but I was VERY happy with the sound quality that was actually coming out the sub, as well as the amount of sound that was coming out. I wouldn't hesitate doing it again or recomending someone to invest the money to add an aftermarket sub to the stock system.
To be honest, for the 2 months I was on the stock stereo, I would spend most of my time with the setting at -6(or whatever all the way down is, don't remember) and at normal listening level like volume 6-12, it provided PLENTY of thump in the trunk. I'm not the one you hear knocking down the street rattling windows and lamp shades. To me that's too much, but I was VERY happy with the sound quality that was actually coming out the sub, as well as the amount of sound that was coming out. I wouldn't hesitate doing it again or recomending someone to invest the money to add an aftermarket sub to the stock system.
I ran mine from the cigarette lighter fuse to the remote turn on.
That or grab a sheet of dynamat for speakers
About the only thing I have found these kits useful for is to stop 3rd brake lights, licence plate, small plastic panels from rattling. They don't do squat for actual speakers lol.
About the only thing I have found these kits useful for is to stop 3rd brake lights, licence plate, small plastic panels from rattling. They don't do squat for actual speakers lol.
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Joined: Aug 2009
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this is great!
hey guys just joined the forum, and i am so glad i did. I have wanted to put my system in my 04 sedan for awhile but really couldnt afford to put and aftermarket head unit in. when i found this write up it made my day. thank u for such an awesome job.
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Joined: Jun 2008
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From: Atlanta
From this part:
This may be a stupid question, but I'm just confirming that you can't actually cut your amp power wire (green one), but rather you need to splice your blue amp remote power wire FROM this wire. Is that correct?
I'm guessing the stock amp powers every other speaker in the car. If that's not the case, I guess it doesn't matter - just not sure if the OEM configuration relies on amp power for the speakers in the car other than the original sub. Can anyone confirm?
I'm going to do this tomorrow or Sunday. Good times.
Pull the black sheath back and look for the green wire with the white stripe. That's the amp turn on wire. Take the blue wire that came with the amp kit and connect it to that wire. This is what is going to be turning your aftermarket amp on. Now plug everything back into the amp.
I'm guessing the stock amp powers every other speaker in the car. If that's not the case, I guess it doesn't matter - just not sure if the OEM configuration relies on amp power for the speakers in the car other than the original sub. Can anyone confirm?
I'm going to do this tomorrow or Sunday. Good times.
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Joined: Jun 2008
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From: Atlanta
Followed this walk through to a T but I can't get the sub to come on. I bought an "open item" LOC from BestBuy and I'm wondering if it's bad. Gonna go pick up another one today, but here's where I am:
I have power to the amp
When I unplug the RCAs from the LOC to the amp and just plug in an IPOD directly to the amp (w/ midi to RCA cable), the sub works.
I'm thinking it's a bad LOC.
anyone have any suggestions of other things to check before I go pick up another LOC?
I have power to the amp
When I unplug the RCAs from the LOC to the amp and just plug in an IPOD directly to the amp (w/ midi to RCA cable), the sub works.
I'm thinking it's a bad LOC.
anyone have any suggestions of other things to check before I go pick up another LOC?
Take a look in the end of the LOC, there should be 2 recessed plastic screws that you can adjust. Give them a spin to see if you get anything. Alot of times people mess with those and either break them or have the signal real low.(even then you should get a little something out of it.) Being that you hooked up an ipod directly, chances are that the LOC is
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Joined: Jun 2008
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From: Atlanta
LOC was bad. Swapped a new one in and everything works perfectly. Bass = 0 at the headunit and amp gain barely cracked - all the bump I'd ever want.
Now for some reason my car won't stay on when I start it w/o giving it a little gas. Wonder if that's an ecu thing since I had the battery disconnected for several hours yesterday.
Now for some reason my car won't stay on when I start it w/o giving it a little gas. Wonder if that's an ecu thing since I had the battery disconnected for several hours yesterday.