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If you have RCAs run from the AVIC to the 5-channel amp, it doesn't matter if you have the 70-7550 or 70-7551, as the only difference between the two is that the 70-7550 has standard wires to connect to a headunit's speaker-level output wires, which are then sent along factory speaker wiring, which in a non-bose car goes directly to the speakers. The 70-7551, on the other hand, has RCA plugs that plug into the RCA outputs on the headunit, which are then sent along factory speaker wiring, which in a bose car goes directly to the amp.
Since you have RCAs connected to the headunit, and are sending a speaker signal along RCA wires to the amp, you aren't using the factory speaker wiring. Because you have the bose amp, if you run speaker wire from the amp back up to the 70-7551's RCA plug wires, you're going to be looping the speaker-level signal BACK to the trunk and into the bose amp, and from there, it'll go to the speaker locations. If you remove the bose amplifier at this point, you won't have a signal going to your speakers anymore, and if you leave the bose amp in the loop, it's going to at best be extremely noisy, and at worst fry the amp as you send a hugely amplified speaker signal into low-level inputs. You don't want to do this.
Again, here's what you want to do:
Pioneer headunit's RCA outputs go to RCA cables to your 5-channel amp in the trunk. Speaker-level outputs from the 5-channel amp then go to the factory wiring IN THE TRUNK that came FROM the bose amplifier going to the speakers. If you have a coupe, this is actually very easy, and there's a significant amount of space where the bose amplifier sits that can usually accommodate your new amplifier, so you won't have to extend wiring if you angle your new amp correctly. The 70-7551 RCAs just sit not plugged into anything. The rest of the 70-7551 doesn't need to be changed, but you can run a new amp power signal wire alongside the RCAs going to your new amp so you're not dependent on the one going to the bose amplifier. Remove the bose amplifier and sell it on eBay or the marketplace.
If you're still confused as to what you need to do at this point, you should take the car to somebody with more experience.
I'm quoting an old post as this is exactly the spot I'm in...I have an aftermarket amp and subs ready for install. Kenwood hu install by previous owner as well as Pac SWI to operate the steering wheel controls. Polk components already in the doors. I'm looking to tap into the output wire of the bose amp for the signal for my front speakers, powered by my amp (I'm pulling out the Boss amp). Is this pin out I found online correct?
Last edited by dikdiamond; 04-23-2017 at 02:15 AM.
Has anyone used this instead of the PAC ROEM-NIS2? I bought the 7551 adapter, antenna adapter and the pac swi rc but realized I probably need to buy the NIS2 since I want to keep the bose amp for now. I was just curious if its possible to use the 7551 with the pac lp3-4 below instead of buying the nis2.
Had a auto 03 g35 sedan and sold it and bought a 03 g35 sedan 6mt with the nismo kit so figured I should finally install a new radio in this one since I bought the stuff for the other one and the new car radio only works sometimes. I have everything I should need unless I need some sort of brackets for the metra kit as I bought this one for like $60 or something really cheap, I just gotta plastic weld the vent pieces as those snapped off.
Has anyone used this instead of the PAC ROEM-NIS2? I bought the 7551 adapter, antenna adapter and the pac swi rc but realized I probably need to buy the NIS2 since I want to keep the bose amp for now. I was just curious if its possible to use the 7551 with the pac lp3-4 below instead of buying the nis2.
Had a auto 03 g35 sedan and sold it and bought a 03 g35 sedan 6mt with the nismo kit so figured I should finally install a new radio in this one since I bought the stuff for the other one and the new car radio only works sometimes. I have everything I should need unless I need some sort of brackets for the metra kit as I bought this one for like $60 or something really cheap, I just gotta plastic weld the vent pieces as those snapped off.
No, that's a Line Output Converter, not a balanced/unbalanced converter.
No, that's a Line Output Converter, not a balanced/unbalanced converter.
Oh ok so I still have to buy the roem. I think I bought that thinking it was the wrong thing then returned it but looks like I'll be buying it again. Is the 7551 harness useless for me then?
Oh ok so I still have to buy the roem. I think I bought that thinking it was the wrong thing then returned it but looks like I'll be buying it again. Is the 7551 harness useless for me then?
Hey, I'm new here and just bought a 2005 G35X Sedan with the Bose system and want to get rid of it because I have all my audio stuff from my previous car.
I think I just need to order the trim piece with A/C controls for the radio and a Maestro Steering Wheel Integration Module (it works with my radio and the G35).
I am wondering if I have to re-run speaker wires or if I can use what is already there. Also, do I need to bypass the factory Amp, leave it plugged-in or is there even one on an 05?
Wrathernaut is the man. My metra kit that I bought which was broken is junk, I glued it but then it broke again and the screw holes are stripped so I just went ahead and bought a jdm one from JDMCainLab
Hey, I'm new here and just bought a 2005 G35X Sedan with the Bose system and want to get rid of it because I have all my audio stuff from my previous car.
I think I just need to order the trim piece with A/C controls for the radio and a Maestro Steering Wheel Integration Module (it works with my radio and the G35).
I am wondering if I have to re-run speaker wires or if I can use what is already there. Also, do I need to bypass the factory Amp, leave it plugged-in or is there even one on an 05?
Thanks!
You can re-use the speaker wiring from the trunk to the speakers. If you swap the speakers, and your crossovers won't fit in the doors, or are not sealed against weather enough to be in the doors, you'll need to run new wire through the molex. If you do that, then you might as well run new speaker wire the entire way, since wiring to the door is trivial, through the molex is not fun.
You can re-use the speaker wiring from the trunk to the speakers. If you swap the speakers, and your crossovers won't fit in the doors, or are not sealed against weather enough to be in the doors, you'll need to run new wire through the molex. If you do that, then you might as well run new speaker wire the entire way, since wiring to the door is trivial, through the molex is not fun.
Do I just unplug the harness from the factory amp? Also, will the speaker wiring in all the doors still work then, or do I need to do something else? I'm just trying to wrap my head around this, I've never had a car that came with a factory amplified system before. Basically what I want to do is upgrade the factory speakers to 4 Polks that I have and amplify them with a 4-channel JBL amp, add my JBL sub and amp, and upgrade the head unit. Also, I don't have any crossovers.
The last car I had was a 2000 Toyota Solara and I didn't have to rewire anything when I added an amp. All I had to do was run wire from the 4 channel amp to the metra harness that plugged into the factory connectors, then I had to crimp the speaker wires to the metra harness and then hookup RCAs that ran into the amp and the head unit.
I'm trying to avoid having to run new speaker wires if that's possible.
Do I just unplug the harness from the factory amp? Also, will the speaker wiring in all the doors still work then, or do I need to do something else? I'm just trying to wrap my head around this, I've never had a car that came with a factory amplified system before. Basically what I want to do is upgrade the factory speakers to 4 Polks that I have and amplify them with a 4-channel JBL amp, add my JBL sub and amp, and upgrade the head unit. Also, I don't have any crossovers.
The last car I had was a 2000 Toyota Solara and I didn't have to rewire anything when I added an amp. All I had to do was run wire from the 4 channel amp to the metra harness that plugged into the factory connectors, then I had to crimp the speaker wires to the metra harness and then hookup RCAs that ran into the amp and the head unit.
I'm trying to avoid having to run new speaker wires if that's possible.
Yes, unplug it and splice into the wires that go to the back.
The wiring to the doors will still work, but it's just a simple Y-split inside the door, so the same signal is going to the tweeter and door speaker locations unless you add in a crossover. If you're running coaxial speakers, it's not really an issue (but you're going to have bad high frequencies if those tweeters are firing at your feet).
Depends what you're doing. M39 is the "accessory" connector - steering wheel controls, navigation audio, satellite adapter ... most everything else goes elsewhere.
Yeah I'm going to use it for the steering wheel controls, but I was looking around and I'm guessing they don't make a harness for that specifically so I gotta splice into it or clipping it like you did on this post. https://g35driver.com/forums/audio-v...-w-pics-3.html
I think for now I'll just skip the steering wheel controls, I probably should have waited and bought the Metra axxess aswc instead of the Pac swi-rc so maybe I'll try to sell it or return it even though I got it last year. It looks a bit too complicated. I can always go back and do it later if I decide to since I'm planning on installing a backup camera eventually too. I just want something that works for now.
04-22-2017, 06:17 PM
