Hey, just joined. I'm a noob when it comes to how car audio works so I was wondering if I could use some help with getting a new system. I'm getting four speakers, two 10 inch subs, a receiver and would like it all to be powered by an amp/amps.

So, with the receiver, if it has a built in amp can i not use it if i want the new speakers to be powered by an amp. And how many channels should the receiver have on the pre amp.

Also, would a single five channel amp be able to power four speakers and two subs? Are there any recomendations for this kind of amp because all the wiring and such confuses the hell out of me and I'm not sure which type to get.

I'm sure I'll have more questions along the way . But thanks in advance

 

Receiver should be a 6-channel, most decent ones are - 4xfull range (left front, right front, left rear, right rear) and 2xsub (left sub, right sub).

A five channel would be a bad choice for running four speakers and subs. Much better to get a 4-channel and a 2-channel, so you've got maximum choice on sound quality for the speakers (ab-class typically) and maximum efficiency for the subs (d-class).

You'll want to run 2 or 4-gauge (depending on total wattage) power wire to trunk, use a distribution block and split that to the amps.

Best thing to do is give us info:

1) Budget
2) Name 3-4 SONGS that are typical of what you listen to and want to sound best. If you say I want everything to be really loud and perfect quality and you listen to everything... #1 better read something like $10,000.
3) Coupe/sedan.

 

My budget is around 1 grand, i can go higher though if its worth it.

As for the songs, Like Toy Soldiers-Eminem, Like Yeah-Tech N9ne, Smoker Face-Wiz Khalifa. I listen to all types of rock too but I would rather have the system made for these types of songs.

I have a 04 coupe with the bose system.

 

$1k will replace your headunit properly, but that won't leave you any money for amps, speakers, subs or boxes.

For $1k, ignoring headunit, a decent 4-channel amp $200, decent 2-channel amp $250, adequate pair of components $200, subs and generic box - $350, re-use the factory rear speakers $0, and remove the factory deck woofers $0.

 

just curious why do you recomend that he removes the factory sub?

 

It's not exactly a sub, just a woofer.

Because any SPL generated by the woofer in the trunk is going to push anything in the rear deck around and generate interference, turning it into a passive emitter that'd be way out of phase, reducing the quality of sound coming from the rear.

Plus, to keep them running you'd need a 6-channel amp, which reduces choices and increases prices considerably.

So best option is to remove them and cover up the holes with some Second Skin.

 

hmm didnt realize that 1k wouldnt get me too much. how much is the minimum that people spend normally?

 

You can buy ****ty speakers and amps (like the $100 2000w amps) and have something that sounds as bad as the stock Bose, but goes a lot louder and with more bass.

I spent about $1200 on headunit (Z110), steering wheel adapter (PAC SWI-PS), harness (Metra 70-7551), JDM DD kit and trim kit.

I'm looking at putting $300 in front components (JL Audio or Boston Acoustics), $150 rear coaxials (JL Audio or Boston Acoustics), $350 ab-class amp (Probably JL Audio as well), $250 d-class amp (not sure on this one) $365 4080enclosures 12" sub enclosure, and probably another $300 for the rear sub.
Sooo.... total about $3k.

But I listen to acoustic rock, classical, hard rock and swing, so SQ and dynamic range is quite important.

If you're listening to loudness-war casualties and rap, you won't hear the difference between $100 speakers and $300 ones anyway. Just get a big subwoofer to drown out the rest of the frequencies and you're fine.

 

I just installed everything you are looking to get put in...Keep in mind you will need many other misc. items other than the main components such as the DD kit, wiring, etc. For my complete system, I spent probably close to $3.5k. For a cheaper system, you could probably get away with probably $2k-$2.5K. Install was another $500, which was cheaper than the quoted $850 I got from 3 shops, and my setup doesn't look over the top or have anything special done. I ran the following...

* Alpine IVA-W505 Double Din Receiver
* OEM Nissan DD Kit
* Metra wiring harness & antenna adapter
* PAC SWI-JACK
* PAC TR-7
* JL Audio XC-PCS2-2B 2 GAUGE Amp Wiring Kit
* JL Audio 500/1 Amp
* JL Audio XB-BLUAIC2-18 2 channel RCAs
* JL Audio 300/4 Amp
* JL Audio XB-BLUAIC4-18 4 channel RCAs
* JL Audio RBC-1 Bass Control ****
* 2 JL Audio 10w3v4 Subwoofers
* Driver & Passenger 4080 Subwoofer Enclosures
* Focal 165VR Components
* Focal 165ca1 Coaxials
* Two sets of Zenclosures Speaker Spacers
* Optima Yellowtop Battery

 

I'm planning on only doing a single 4080 12", that'll shave off a few bucks there. Those enclosures ain't cheap!

 

i found a cheaper enclosure than that 4080 onehttp://www.supercrewsound.com/commerce/product.jsp?prodId=347&catId=138

I don't know if its any good but its a lot cheaper.

And how important is the HU. Is it bad if i get a crappy one.

 

Definitely not comparable to the 4080, even ignoring that's for a coupe and I have a sedan.
This:


Nowhere as good and space-efficient as this:


HU importance... most will output a pretty good signal and if you have an amp will sound good, but having high-voltage pre-outs helps reduce interference between the HU and the amps. The interface and other features of the headunit are usually what separates them. Unless you're buying a sub-$100 one and comparing it to one that's been properly EQ'd to your car and speaker locations, I think most people would be hard-pressed to tell the difference when listening to a CD playing between the units. FM receivers vary in quality though, so that's somewhere you can tell a cheap unit from a good one.