Decided to build my own box for about $20 including fasteners, couldn't see myself spending $350 on a fiberglass box. Used a piece of cardboard to get rough dimensions and then recreated it in Solidworks. Came out to be .55 cuft after the sub volume is subtracted. The angle in the back of the box was a major pain to make but the whole thing turned out great. Running an new 10'' Alpine type R at 600 rms with a kicker 750.1 amp putting out over 900 rms mounted on top of the stock amp. 4 gauge power wire and a 150 amp inline fuse at the battery. The sound is perfect and with the remote bass boost run into the cup holder, i can adjust the level for every song. Tell me what you guys think!

 

Nice clean install. $20 ain't too shabby!

Were you able to keep the spare at all?

 

yea man, even got the original black plastic cover on top of it all. I have a plug inline with the sub so i can disconnect it quickly and take it out to get to the spare.

 

How does it sound? Any updates to the speakers/HU? I'm thinking to put a Type R 10 in a similar type box (prob a 4080) in my sedan. I wish I could fabricate something like that up for $20 though.

 

With this set up it can get very loud, good for a little showing off, but for normal use, ( i like a lot of rock) the bass drum kicks are very tight and hard, and it picks up a little bass guitar on the bottom end. it most definitely rounds out the sound and makes you realize what you've been missing. right now i have a stock head unit so i tapped into the low level input before amp to get the source. Definitely need to foam the trunk to stop rattling... lol

i run the amp at almost full gain, and do most of the control with the bass control ****. I use about +2 to the front speakers and about -2 on bass EQ. The front components are much better sounding than the rear and i wanted to remove some of the bass that the internal speakers were trying to reproduce.

One other thing... if you do add a sub, you will notice immediately how crappy the stock speakers are, i may do an Alpine Type R component swap for the front and 2way type R 6.5'' for the rear before the summer is over. I still haven't gotten around to disconnecting or removing the 6x9's but truthfully i can barely hear them.

 

Great work. I also have an Alpine type-r 10 in the same location but in a fiberglass box. (Only have $110 in the box itself) For anyone interested in running this sub I agree with this statement
a link to mine https://g35driver.com/forums/audio-v...-my-coupe.html

 

Aww man i cant believe i didn't see that post when i was doing research! Thats a great little box and $110 is an awesome price. Its very difficult for me to believe the 1.3 cuft size because my size box is .55 cuft and obviously looks considerably larger. I guess when you really maximize all the space between curves using fiberglass, you can pick up more room. Thats a great looking set up and i love the amp location, unfortunately i don't know if my amp would have fit there.

 

yeah I don't believe its 1.3 either but i would be willing to bet its near 1 cu-ft. I was going to fill it with water to measure it but never got around to it. But yes maximizing the size by form fitting it to the curves of the trunk pays off big. This is a small amp and I didn't think it was going to put out the power that it says it does, and I was worried it was going to make too much heat in there. But I have to say it is a very efficient amp because it doesn't get hot at all. I do have it turned down pretty low though otherwise there is just too much bass. Factory speakers can't keep up. You did a very good job with yours though. I like it. I don't think the place I got my box from has them anymore, so its good you made your own. Oh what kind of speaker grille is that?

 

Its a Kicker 08GR10. I throw stuff in the trunk all the time, skim boards and what not, so protecting the speaker was of high priority. It fits well but as you know the outside surround where the screws go is rubber, so i had to make little metal spacers to fill the hole so that the grill would be tightening on the metal instead of the flimsy rubber surround.

I know Alpine, JL and Kicker always underrate their amps so i'm sure your 500 watt is putting out closer to 600. i have the build sheet for mine and it said 930 watts. I was also concerned about putting my amp on top of the stock amp because there isn't much ventilation and its resting on the stock amp which is also producing heat. So far it hasn't cut out so i guess i'm good. lol

have you removed your 6x9's yet?

 

Much better looking than a normal cube, would you consider showing the dimensions for each of the segment so that others on a budget can build something similar?

Also, if you went with a thicker MDF, you could probably get away without the extra chunks of wood in there, and use less screws. The combined volume of those boards is probably more than the room taken up by a thicker enclosure.

 

Yea i can definitely post up a higher quality dimensioned drawing so anyone could download and build it. I was already using 3/4'' MDF and just used the blocks to screw into because i wanted to avoid splitting the MDF. The blocks are made from scrap 2x4 and were pilot drilled while the actual MDF was drilled out to a clearance hole size. This allows the screws to pull the 2 pieces of MDF to the block from both directions, making for a very strong hold. all joints got gorilla glued and once dry, got caulked.

 

no not yet. I really should get around to that though

 

fail @ sealing a type r

 

If you mean mounting a Type R in a sealed enclosure...

then no, not a "fail"

"Recommended enclosure Alignments: Sealed, Vented, Bandpass"

Optimum Sealed Box-Net Internal Volume= 0.50 ft^3

from the Alpine site: http://vault.alpine-usa.com/products...12_23D_43D.pdf

I went with a sealed setup so i could run a smaller box and prefer a tighter, more accurate bass hit.