I started to mess with the tweeters on my 07 g35 sedan. I have the studio on wheels. I want to test out new tweeters.

I removed the tweeters, and saw that the high pass filter is built into the tweeter, and I can't read which cap they used. I need this info to figure out which filter to use myself.

Does anyone know what high pass filter setting they used?

Or even knowing the tweeter resistance and cap can tell me what to use.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks

 

Bose doesn't disclose anything like "specifications" or "frequencies" they're a marketing company, so it probably filters at the level that ignorant snobs can't hear below.

Seriously though, use whatever setting is good for your new tweeters. The purpose of the HPF like used on the stock system is to prevent damaging frequencies from hitting your tweeters, not to properly split up the audio signal.

 

I wish it was that easy. Tweeters need to start playing where your midrange speakers stop at. I might have to get a whole bunch of different caps to start expirimenting with.

I wish I had testing equipment.

 

Please read how a HPF isn't a crossover, and how HPF are used to "filter" frequencies that would otherwise damage or reduce the sound quality of an audio component, and then tell me why you would even care what HPF a company that is infamous for overpriced, underperforming audio equipment used for an entirely different component used, let alone need to know it for installing a replacement tweeter with its recommended/included HPF.

In an analogous question, I'm replacing the fuel pump in my G35. What fuel filter was used in a 1983 Yugo?

 

Yes and no. For example, if the midrange is lowpassed at 5khz, and your tweeters are highpassed at 3khz, this will probably not sound good. Too much over lap.

Yes, you need to filter out any tweeter damaging frequencys to protect the tweeters, but you also want it to sound good by filtering it over properly.

 

I'm pretty sure frequency overlap wasn't on Bose's list of things to do when slapping the system together, so would be quite surprised if the HPF and LPFs on the other components eliminate overlap at all.

Worrying about frequency overlap while keeping other Bose components in the car is wasted time as well, any sound quality reduction of small overlap is moot compared to the reduction of sound quality from having Bose in the car.

If you insist on finding out where the filter points are, you don't need any fancy equipment anyway, just use a tone generator on your laptop connected to the aux inputs and monitor the wires to each component with a multimeter to see when they cut off.

 

that doesnt mean your speaker(s) magically stop playing frequencies above or below the set crossover point.

Either way,
what type of tweeters do you have?

if they are stock....sorry but you are wasting your time

 

I know they don't. Also dependant on the crossover slope. But it's best to get it close at least.

I have a few tweeters to test out.

Aura NT1
Couple of the small Dayton tweeters
Infiniti 10.3t ceramic coated tweeters
Focal TN47

I just pulled the trigger on some caps. Probably experiment over the weekend.

I like the idea with the laptop Wrathernaut. May have to consider that in the future.

 

I believe that the program Audacity can generate tones for you easily, there's probably better software for it, but I don't use tone generators enough to need anything better.

Test CDs are ok and all, but too limited.

 

So I swapped the tweeters. I went with the Infinity tweeters. They came with a 3,500 hz 12db slope crossover. Luckily, this filter seemed to be the perfect crossover point.

They fit perfect in the sail panels with no modifications at all. The bracket simply clamped down on the tweeters. Can’t get any simpler than that.
The stock tweeters are definitely Bose tweeters(Bose printed on them). Not sure what resistance they are, I would guess 2 ohms and I’ll tell you why (I will eventually put an ohm meter on them to check). I believe they are 2 ohms because when I put the 4 ohm infinity tweeters in, the midrange driver and the tweeter seemed slightly attenuated, which actually was a pleasant surprise. The 10” woofers are now slightly more pronounced and more balanced. The midrange drivers and the tweeters are on the same channels.
Before, right when the tweeters and midrange drivers started to distort, the midbass started getting good. Now, I have good midbass throughout all volumes.

It also did not affect the stage. Even with the front speakers slightly attenuated, front stage Is still there.

Now you probably want to know how it sounds. The tweeters are pretty nice. These are not the infinity tweeters that are crazy annoying (like some other infinity tweeters). These have a 90db efficiency which is on par with the rest of the system so it is balanced. The tweeters are crisp and work well with the factory processing. There is more emotion to this system which I feel lacked on the stock tweeters. Stock tweeters are just so bland and lacked sparkle and air.

So my conclusion, this factory system is not a total waste. Some taught was put into it. Just needs a little tweaking in my opnion. All I want to do now is add a JL Audio 12w6 with a 500/1 amp and I think I’ll be happy, and with more money in pocket.

 

Did you look at those "premium" shallow paper cones bose calls speakers though? I honestly could have them side-by-side with the speakers out of a 1984 ford ranger and not tell the difference.

 

Yes they are shallow and probably don't have allot of throw either. But it does an okay job, given that it has the cone area to get low.

Not saying they are the best or great, but they do an okay job imo.

 

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If you ever put something good with a solid amp behind it, you'll probably feel the same disgust I do towards them - I'm quite sure whomever approves the Bose contract for the premium audio system gets a lot of money under the table from Bose. Not only that, but since Bose's marketing has convinced people that that's what premium audio sounds like, and that it is premium, they won't ever demand a cheaper, better quality audio system (JL components perhaps?) instead of it.

 

Oh I know how you feel, Bose has always disappointed. I have always ripped it out and replaced it on any car I’ve had with Bose.

Studio on wheels however I can live with (except for the bland tweeters ).

Oh and thanks for the tip with playing frequencies. This really helped me narrow down a crossover point. I burned a whole mess of frequencies on a cd and 3,500ish seemed to be where the tweeter starts really going