I have an 03 coupe with a factory audio system (I know should upgrade). Anyway a couple of days ago the factory subs stopped working, all the rest of the speakers work fine, but the rear subs are not doing anything, no sound at all.….. I looked through the manual to see was there a fuse or something that may be blown, but the only fuse I see is for the radio, and the radio works fine, sometimes the occasional on and off, but other than that things seems to be ok….I searched the forum to see if anyone else have had the same problem, but looks as if I may be the only on the forum still listening to the factory system…..Anyway if anyone have had this problem and can share some info on how to diagnose the problem the tip would be highly appreciated.

 

The rear deck 6x9's get their signal from the same signal going to the rest of the speakers, so your problem is either the bose amp itself (most likely), the wiring between the amp and rear deck 6x9s (unlikely), or the 6x9s themselves (both going out simultaneously - unlikely).

Good excuse to get a new amp, just make sure it can handle differential-balanced inputs.

 

Wrathernaut,...I was thinking the same thing...Based on the information I've been reading from the site, but I have absolutely no experience with audio install or wiring...I tried smelling around the trunk to see if I would notice any "burnt plastic" smell, but didn't notice anything. That's what made me think it was a fuse or something blown, but looks as if I will be needing an amp(s) and some 6x9's...

You mentioned that I would need an amp that would be able to handle "differential-balanced inputs"......Have no idea what that is.....maybe you could explain..., it please steer clear of technical terms that would exceed my experience by light-years.

 

Simple answer: unbalanced uses one signal wire, so it can't correct for noise. balanced uses two signal wires that are inverses of the same audio wave, the difference between these waves is the actual audio signal.


For a more math-y explanation (hopefully you're not afraid of algebra):

In an unbalanced audio signal:
audiosignal + noise = receivedsignal
signaltospeakers = receivedsignal

In a balanced audio signal:
((1/2 * audiosignal) + noise) = receivedsignalA
(-1 * (1/2 * audiosignal) + noise) = receivedsignalB
signaltospeakers = receivedsignalA - receivedsignalB

Now break it out a little more:
Un-balanced:
audiosignal + noise = signaltospeakers
Noise is always there, you can't get rid of it.

Balanced:
((1/2 * audiosignal) + noise) - (-1 * (1/2 * audiosignal) + noise) = signaltospeakers
You'll note that with the balanced equation, that you both add and remove noise, so it can be effectly removed from the equation:
(1/2 * audiosignal) - (-1 * (1/2 * audiosignal) = signaltospeakers



So if you send an unbalanced signal at something expecting a balanced signal, it has to assume a very large value for noise and reduce the value of audiosignal in order to make the equation work. Since it sees a value of 10 as a 5 with +5 noise, you lose a lot of the signal. Depending on the aggressiveness of the correction, you can end up with virtually no audio output.

If you send a balanced signal at something expecting an unbalanced signal, you end up with about half the volume of the normal audio.

 

But JL amps all take differential balanced audio signals, I'm not sure which others do, somebody posted a couple others a while back, but that's what search is for.

 

wow there is something about audio your not sure about

 

you gave you a simple answer then a super complicated answer
i had to read it 5 times lol
and i have experience with doing systems

 

I had to write it about 10 times trying to be accurate, but I figured this would do.... if you think it's complicated, you should have seen tries 1-9.

With some graphs of waveforms and stuff it can help to visualize, but I really don't feel like going that far.

 

you dont need to check the fuses because the fuse is for the power to the radio so if your other speakers are working it is good.

i take it you wanna fix this problem yourself if not you would have taken it to a mechanic.

now when diagnosing a problem like this i suggesting starting with a known good part. meaning install a speaker in place of the one you that is not working

if the new speaker works then simple need new speakers

if that speaker doesnt work the factory amp has to be checked next

 

gosh 10 times where do you get the time i dont even read what i write once

lol but how do you know these things

im a music system junky d.i.y.er i have installed tvs in headrest wiring system subs tweeters HUs so i know a little

 

Well, a lot of it was moving stuff around, alternate concepts that got half-started before I realized they were more confusing... that why I ended up just throwing the algebraic explanation on there instead of one of the analogies I attempted. Time... well I get enough free time at work, as my job had a lot of time padding in case of a crisis. I also type fast.

How do I know these things? I'm a researcher by trade, so I tend to look for authoritative sources, study them and assimilate the knowledge as I need it.

 

I know that is real...very simple at first then proceeded by very complicated..but since then I have been reading through posts and getting familiar with audio terminology so some things are becoming clearer.

But one thing that I have found is finding an amp able to carry or handle differential input is complicated

 

I recently found that the speakers do work...I had been riding my bike ( gotta love those gixxers) for a couple of days..went out jumped in the car and the rear speakers work. Go figure

 

Yeah I plan on doing everything myself….you will be surprised what you can do if you just get past the start….I’ve tackled engine swaps, transmission swaps, and putting my gixxers to the test, old ones and new ones, but never dabbled in the audio, don’t know why but just haven’t… I have been doing as much researching as possible, but I have found that (at least on this site) that its really hard to narrow your search to the specifics…For instance, I would like a set of components that require no spacers and does not need any fabrication for the tweeters….did the search on the forum (components exact fit and a few other wordings)…some inputs but no real information websites price etc. I’ve also found that before you decide to install a new head unit your going to need a JDM kit…cool…but Riverside seems to be the only place to get them for a decent price, but unfortunately they are always on back order (sucks)….Looked on the vendor sites but found nothing that fits my criteria, I wish the vendors had a vehicle specific search like Crutchfield…

I then thoroughly read over Wrathernaut’s resource sticky….Great stuff dude…!!! but unfortunately did not find a video where an 03 Coupe was being modified. I think the 03 Coupe is a great platform for those of us who is willing to put in the effort and work it out…Nice body, able to handle plenty of horse power and girls seem love them….But (and but changes everything) you damn near have to donate a kidney to get information….Can someone answer this…There are some DIY’s on the site for Double Din install but all the pictures are hosed…WTF..!!.....And 4080 is under reconstruction…I will be looking for sub’s here pretty soon, but what’s the use when you can’t find a box that doesn’t take up all the little truck that you have.

But so far you guys have been absolutely awesome in feedback and detailed information….even if it require a Master’s Degree in Quantum Physics to understand the terminology (Directed to Wrathernaut)..

I know sales are going to be hopping up all over the place being the holidays are coming, so that’s my initiative to continue researching and compare prices for items…I have a budget of ≈ $1500- $2000, and that should be enough for a component set that requires no modification, JDM Kit with dual climate control, ac controller (maybe I should keep the head unit, don’t know), One 12” sub, 2 two channel amps, rear panel speakers, wiring and any other stuff that my be needed….

Speaking of sales…Guys can you please give some good detailed information on audio system parts/speakers/amps that my go on sale
(Thanksgiving Day Sales and Christmas Sales)….I know there would be other readers that would appreciate the advice and maybe some experts can find some things for cheap….

Thanks everyone

 

If you're looking for a headunit, the X920BT is due to be offered with a good rebate soon, as they typically offer a rebate equal to or greater than the price of the map updates during their yearly update cycle. I think it's available with a $100 rebate now, and it may not hit $200 at all, since it's considered the lesser of their two top-tier units.

The rest of the parts never really go on seasonal sales. B&M stores will put some equipment on sale, but it won't be as cheap as online retailers. Best is to spend a few months picking up parts from various sources as they try and make room in their inventory for other stuff.

Have a short list of 2-3 options for sub, amp, speakers and headunits and whenever one goes into a must-have price range, pick it up.