Bass amp works but 4 channel amp goes on protect... What is wrong w/ it ?
#1
Bass amp works but 4 channel amp goes on protect... What is wrong w/ it ?
I upgraded my 03' sound system started w/ the head unit ( Pioneer navi/dvd ) then bass amp, cap, and 2 10's. Everything was working good till I decided to upgrade the bose amp to a 4 channel ( zeus 440 ) door and rear quarter panel 6.5's ( Component MB Quarts ) and used MONSTER RCAs. I let somebody install ( he says he has been doing this for 15 years ) it and I read here that this car has ground issues if not grounded to the seat belt bolt or back seat bolt... So I told the installer but he still hooked it up to the rear cross member saying that he's done many G35's and it was no problem like that. He hooked up the bass amp and it was no issues w/ it since then, so the bass amp and the 4 channel amp are now connected to the capacitor and grounded to the rear cross member. Bass works great, and 4 channel amp only worked when it was installed ( no interference or anything ). As soon as I drove off from the fresh installed the highs and mids speakers stopped, 4 channel amp in protect, I checked the temperature to see if it was getting hot and was not. I let it cool down ( about 1 hr ) and turn it on again, only worked for seconds before it goes into protect again. I called the installer and he blames on the amp ( that I got it online, not from him ). So I try troubleshooting the amp and now it doesn't even play anymore, goes into protect, no speaker wires hooked up to it and still does it. I sent the amp back, got a MB Quart 450, and it does the same thing ! Only this time I try also troubleshooting the amp w/ RCAs on and off and it goes into protect w/ RCAs on I called the dude again and he still blaming on the amp, So could it be bad luck or a hell of a terrible installer ? It has to do something w/ the install... could it be the grounding point or RCAs on the back of the unit ?
#4
First off, take the 4-channel amp off the cap. The cap is a band-aid. Upgrade your battery, and your wiring "Big 3" is what they call it.
Use the power distribution block and run the 4 channel from it with no cap. Cap should be between the power distribution block and the bass amp (if you are going to use it).
After that, try seeing if it turns on with out any audio inputs or ouptuts connected.
As far as your installer....15 years experience and he is still blaming the amp after you replaced it is wrong.
Everytime I have installed a system, I always use the bolt for the seatbelt.
Use the power distribution block and run the 4 channel from it with no cap. Cap should be between the power distribution block and the bass amp (if you are going to use it).
After that, try seeing if it turns on with out any audio inputs or ouptuts connected.
As far as your installer....15 years experience and he is still blaming the amp after you replaced it is wrong.
Everytime I have installed a system, I always use the bolt for the seatbelt.
#5
I could have sworn I replied to this one already, maybe the reply got dumped.
Anyway, please use paragraphs and such in your posts, that giant mess is hard enough to read as it is without being a giant block of text.
First thing, get a clean ground. Upgrading the big 3 is good, but with that small of a system, not necessary at this point. Anything over 1,000 watts though, definitely should be part of the install.
Second, are you sure you didn't get a crappy amp stuffed in a legit box? It's not unheard of to get a counterfeit amp or somebody to swap the guts from a broken one into a new one and resell it.
Anyway, please use paragraphs and such in your posts, that giant mess is hard enough to read as it is without being a giant block of text.
First thing, get a clean ground. Upgrading the big 3 is good, but with that small of a system, not necessary at this point. Anything over 1,000 watts though, definitely should be part of the install.
Second, are you sure you didn't get a crappy amp stuffed in a legit box? It's not unheard of to get a counterfeit amp or somebody to swap the guts from a broken one into a new one and resell it.
#6
I could have sworn I replied to this one already, maybe the reply got dumped.
Anyway, please use paragraphs and such in your posts, that giant mess is hard enough to read as it is without being a giant block of text.
First thing, get a clean ground. Upgrading the big 3 is good, but with that small of a system, not necessary at this point. Anything over 1,000 watts though, definitely should be part of the install.
Second, are you sure you didn't get a crappy amp stuffed in a legit box? It's not unheard of to get a counterfeit amp or somebody to swap the guts from a broken one into a new one and resell it.
Anyway, please use paragraphs and such in your posts, that giant mess is hard enough to read as it is without being a giant block of text.
First thing, get a clean ground. Upgrading the big 3 is good, but with that small of a system, not necessary at this point. Anything over 1,000 watts though, definitely should be part of the install.
Second, are you sure you didn't get a crappy amp stuffed in a legit box? It's not unheard of to get a counterfeit amp or somebody to swap the guts from a broken one into a new one and resell it.
#7
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#8
Different sources , first amp was e-bay, second from amazon.com
I sent back the first amp and got a refund for it. The second amp is still here.
And I forgot to mention I'm running 0 gauge from the battery to bass amp and 4 gauge for the 4channel amp, also 0 to 4 gauge distributor block ( but the installer never used it).
I sent back the first amp and got a refund for it. The second amp is still here.
And I forgot to mention I'm running 0 gauge from the battery to bass amp and 4 gauge for the 4channel amp, also 0 to 4 gauge distributor block ( but the installer never used it).
Last edited by SFLGTURBO; 11-05-2010 at 05:22 AM.
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