Cap or not to cap, capacitor
Zenclosures seal the trunk and woofer from the cabin, so there's that, but other than that, they're a good price for a vehicle-specific fit box.
The stock speakers are mediocre at best, but they're generally considered the least bad part of the system (which isn't saying much), but the bose amp sucks. It's got a built-in EQ that sucks the bass out whenever the volume goes up, and is weak.
The stock speakers are mediocre at best, but they're generally considered the least bad part of the system (which isn't saying much), but the bose amp sucks. It's got a built-in EQ that sucks the bass out whenever the volume goes up, and is weak.
I have:
JL 300/1v2 (Speakers)
JL 500/1v2 (Sub)
4080 Enclosure
JL 10w6v2
BA Pro60se's up front
BA SC65's in the rear
Pioneer Z110BT
sounddeadenershowdown.com CLD tiles in the trunk and on one door (didn't finish before deploying)
dynamat is crap, but it's easy to buy locally, but the SDS CLD tiles are much better in terms of price, adhesion and vibration dampening.
JL 300/1v2 (Speakers)
JL 500/1v2 (Sub)
4080 Enclosure
JL 10w6v2
BA Pro60se's up front
BA SC65's in the rear
Pioneer Z110BT
sounddeadenershowdown.com CLD tiles in the trunk and on one door (didn't finish before deploying)
dynamat is crap, but it's easy to buy locally, but the SDS CLD tiles are much better in terms of price, adhesion and vibration dampening.
You forgot to say 1 farad capacitor lol
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Helps maintain voltage, when you have sudden voltage drops ie serious bass note, it also aids in power factor correction depending on inductive/capacitive load. They definatly help, with out it all the accessories in the car and lights dim when you get a voltage drop across the load.
In my opinion lol
In my opinion lol
^ sounds like the marketing speak to me. A "serious bass note" lasts more than the 1/20th (being generous here) of a second that your cap would actually be providing power.
Money only, the impact of a cap is very minimal, and I would never say it was directly responsible for an alternator going out, unless it was poorly installed or the cap failed (but that's what fuses are for).
Again, that's why keeping it simple and done well is the best way to go. Less parts = less chances for failure.
Again, that's why keeping it simple and done well is the best way to go. Less parts = less chances for failure.
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Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 89
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I don't even have a system, I'm just saying what I learned in school. Also my friend had his system with out a cap and the lights in the car and the headlights would dim when the speakers hit low bass notes. He installed a capacitor and it fixed the issue. I'm pretty sure that's all they do, it doesn't make your speakers louder or sound better or your system more powerful, which in my opinion is the most common misconception with caps!!
^ In that situation, I would guess it was an amp with an unregulated power supply, in which case, you're spending $100 on a cap to cover the $10 you saved by buying a cheap amp.
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Joined: Nov 2010
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So everyone says Capacitors are not needed (as I recently found out).
After revising my Electrical 101, here is my rant.
Capacitor will protect factory alternators.
Every time the amp wants more current, the battery and alternator will see a drop in resistance on the entire 12V bus on your vehicle. If the battery is unable to provide that current, your alternator will try to. This means that your alternator will have peaks of higher current running at those times.
Heat generated is a squared function of current, meaning if your alternator is providing 1A constant, instead of peaks of 0.6A --> 1.4A, the 1.4A peaks will generate more heat in bursts within the coil. This will in no doubt shorten the life of your alternator. Now if you put in a Capacitor, the current bursts that were being provided by your alternator will be shared with the capacitor, your alternator will have load spread over time.
Given the choice, I would generate less current over a long period as the function for heat generated is ((I^2)*r*t), where I is the current, so if current goes up, more heat is generated as current is squared, time on the other hand is not squared.
So IMO, if you feel you are gonna strain the alternator, put in a capacitor.
If you got a huge alternator, skip it.
Please let me know of gaps in my analysis.
After revising my Electrical 101, here is my rant.
Capacitor will protect factory alternators.
Every time the amp wants more current, the battery and alternator will see a drop in resistance on the entire 12V bus on your vehicle. If the battery is unable to provide that current, your alternator will try to. This means that your alternator will have peaks of higher current running at those times.
Heat generated is a squared function of current, meaning if your alternator is providing 1A constant, instead of peaks of 0.6A --> 1.4A, the 1.4A peaks will generate more heat in bursts within the coil. This will in no doubt shorten the life of your alternator. Now if you put in a Capacitor, the current bursts that were being provided by your alternator will be shared with the capacitor, your alternator will have load spread over time.
Given the choice, I would generate less current over a long period as the function for heat generated is ((I^2)*r*t), where I is the current, so if current goes up, more heat is generated as current is squared, time on the other hand is not squared.
So IMO, if you feel you are gonna strain the alternator, put in a capacitor.
If you got a huge alternator, skip it.
Please let me know of gaps in my analysis.
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