Alright here is a quick install I put together for a temporary setup for my vehicle. I had this setup that was suppose to go in my wife's car but she is not interested in a system. I decided to put it to good use and try to make the install Simple yet functional. I have mounted the bass control **** by the cup holders and honestly that is what was the hardest and most time consuming. Overall I am very happy with the results and during the install I found out the previous owner had totally removed the Bose sub .

Here is the pictures of the install and it was a budget setup that take up minimal space and still packs a punch. I need the most amount of space possibly as this is a daily driver and I haul my baby boi around along with his stroller and my crap.

 

ahhhh scroll finger cramp

 

Now I see why you ladies complain about the amount of pics. You need a mouse that has free scrolling and fixed scrolling. I can scroll all the pics in just one scroll action mwahahahhahaahahah.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16826104377

 

Good job.

 

How do you like the sub? & How many Watts is your amp (RMS)? Can you compare it to any other subs you've heard?

 

ahhh thats a nice thin one. you should have gotten TWO!

 

how much did the sub/box combo cost you? im trying to look for something similar so i can save trunk space too.

 

Looks cool, but being in that small of a box, it must fall flat on it's face around 45hz

If you want to save maximum space and have top notch SQ, infinite baffle is the answer.

 

Thanks for all the comments and before I blabber on let me show you pics of my old setups.












That gives you an idea of what I have had personally and I use to be an MECP certified installer at bestbuy during College so I installed a lot of systems at work and on the side. I have had experience with all sorts of brands like Hertz, Focal, Mbquarts, JL, IDQ, Kinetik, Pioneer, Alpine, DIY, Diamond and other high/low end brands.

This system is a very simple and cost effective setup. I had 2 things in mind and everyone know that you pick 2 out of 3. GOOD QUALITY, FAST or CHEAP but in this case is GOOD QUALITY, Cheap or Loud. I wanted to use the least amount of space and spend as little as possible. The Poster who spoke about 45hz does have a point that in a minimal enclosure there just is not enough volume to hit the really low notes.

In my opinion I would do make the same decision all day long. I had no sub at all since previous owner removed it so honestly. ALL BS ASIDE does it really matter if it is sealed, ported, IB or what ever type of setup. This has to be better than stock. Must I remind you..."NO HIGH NO LOWS MUST BE BOSE". Well guess what I have a bose setup and no subwoofer

For the little amount of money it cost to set this up it made a tremendous difference. You have to admit DISTORTION is what kills speakers and clipping the amp. By adding a larger dedicated subwoofer with amp, I am able to reduce the load on the door speakers and have clear sounds at higher volumes by rerouting bass to the dedicated subwoofer.



In the end, I would recommend all owners to look into some sort of subwoofer to add to there stock system. This will really help and if you want to loose no space at all then look at IDQ IB subwoofer and mount it in the stock BOSE sub location. I chose this since I have always had 12" subs and wanted to have plenty of PUNCH and extension. This will suffice for the time being and I would 155% much rather have a 12" slim sub that is sloppy under 45hz and still have my baby boi in the car along with his stroller and all my other crap I carry around.



SOMEONE ASKED ABOUT PRICE. I picked it up from Amazon when they had an amazing 50%-75% off. I paid $180 for the sub shipped with 2 day air and $110 for the 500w mono block.



Here is a screen shot of today prices



https://g35driver.com/forums/5851693-post30.html

 

man when i mount my bass **** at the same place you did, everytime i pull up the e-brake up or down it hits the bottom of the **** and moves it out of place. does your ever budge the **** when pulling the e-brake up or down? nice old setups what kind of w7 is that? im running 12w7 with 1000v2

 

Decided to mount the Bass control **** permanently in the cup holder area. I used hot glue to mount it in place but there was too much glue and the little plastic faceplate would not fit flush. I had to trim the excess glue and it fit just perfect in the stock spot. I had to cut the circuit board for the bass **** to make it fit and you can see where I trimmed. I had to make sure none of the traces were affected by it otherwise the whole board would be ruined. Only thing left from the amp install is to FAB up a bracket to hold the box in place when I go for spirited drives. My bass **** is rock solid and has no issues with movement after gluing in place. You can use a small nut that will thread onto the bass **** on the **** side. I was not able to make it flush enough to use a nut so decided to hot glue it in place and it has been wonderful.







Edit: The crossfire had 1000/v2 for 12w7, 400/4v2 for dedicated component amp and 300/2 v2 for dedicated mid bass amp. I had all Focal speakers and JL amp/sub. Amazing system and used a true 3 way setup with active crossover on head unit. it was top of the line pioneer premier line with tons of settings, time delay, yadda yadda yadda.

 

Thanks for the reply, i placed my bass **** in the same location and had a washer with a nut to have it secured. But my the other side of my **** where the circuit board was, is a bit big, its fit in there but it gets in the way having my e-brake go up and down. I dont want to take the plastic part out to expose the board, thanks for the help tho.

 

Cracking the plastic cover open and installing is the only way to have it clear the e-brake and fit in place without getting snagged. I have done many installations where you take it out and install the board or trim the board and install. It will be fine since you are not exposing it to outside elements. What do you about the e-brake and parking since I am assuming you are a manual.

 

Yea one way is to take the plastic part off. But I test fitted moving it lower to the flatter part of the coin slot of the felt part and it clears the e brake. But right now I just left it inside the plastic of the whole arm rest because I set up my gains and 3/4 turned up on bass know and don't want to mess with it to clip my woofer. So it's whatever to me. I might one day take off the plastic off the **** and yea it's a mt. Thanks for the help.

 

I like where that bass **** is, very clean setup