its a 135a breaker. should I keep it? I just found it today. Should I replace it with a higher amp fuse? I will be running around 1500w rms? lmk
I aslo have another question. While looking in the engine bay for the audio that the last guy did he drilled 2 holes by the feet of the driver in the firewall with no grommet or anything. He also has a 2nd wire running through here and idk what its for. I have pics on my phone so if u really need them i'll post em.

 

I used to run circuit breakers back in the day for competitions because they were quicker to fix than digging around for fuses, but in all honesty unless you're constantly beating on s system and its installed well you shouldn't blow fuses.

Having said that there's nothing wrong with breakers, but the max watts you're pushing is irrelevant. Look at the fuses on your amps, add them all up, that's how many amps your breaker or battery fuse needs to be.

I didn't hit the link because I'm on my phone and its acting up, but that's kind of some basics to give you info.

If you're doing the install yourself and you aren't 100% sure on what's happening s breaker can save you lord of time, just remember that if it needs a reset you need to figure out why, not just hit the button and hope.

 

Oh yeah, firewall holes with no grommet aren't good. You might want to hit a parts store and plug them (put a little silicone around the edges of the hole to prevent rust).

What size is wire that is running through? Is it crazy thick, small, single I'd dual (like speaker wire)?

Whenever you buy used and aren't sure or can't confirm its never bad to ignore what's there and do it right yourself.

 

Last thing, holes on the driver side probably aren't audio related since the battery is on the passenger side. But its not completely out of the question, just unlikely.

 

I'm positive it is audio. It's prolly a 4 gauge wire with the breaker 2 feet from the battery. ( ik far away). The other wire is made of two wires and its a neg and pos. Prolly to power the tv/dvd player

 

Circuit breakers are usually cheaper and easier to install vs fuse holders

Also, they make it much easier to work on your audio set up. All you have to do is push a button. When your done, just flip the breaker back.

 

Could the two wires be for an alarm siren? I can't imagine anyone running two wires in to the engine bay to power a screen and/or DVD player.

The fuse / breaker should be no more then 18" from the battery, and 18" is pushing it. They should be as close as practically possible to the battery. The length of wire between the battery and the fuse/breaker is not protected in any way so the shorter you make that wire the safer you are.

Wire running through a bare hole in sheet metal is no good. You'll have to pull the wire out and put a plastic grommet in, then pull the wire back though. Once the wire is in place it never hurts to seal the hole back up with silicon.

As mentioned above, you can't calculate fuse size based solely on RMS power - there are too many variables. There are several ways to determine fuse/breaker sizing and adding the fuses up is one way. A more accurate way is to determine how much actual power your system will be pulling and fuse it slightly higher. Keep in mind though, that every wire size has a max fuse rating that you can't go above without creating a risk for fire. The advantage to choosing a fuse closer to actual usage over the max current the system can pull is that when the fuse is needed to protect the car/amps the lower the fuse rating the sooner it will blow. The higher the rating of the fuse the longer the delays can become and the more important it is to choose the right fuse value to prevent fire/damage.

 

I think it is to an alarm siren actually. It hooks into this weird looking speaker in the engine with a plastic cone around it the size of a tweeter. We had to get the alarm disconnected because one day it went off on the highway and wouldnt shut off. so i had the stock one rewired and I guess the dealership just left it there.