i am changing the radio and adding a amp and wanted to run a direct speaker wire from the amp to the door speakers...does anyone know how to pass the wire from inside the cabin through the rubber tube into the door?

 

Is there a reason you wish not to use the factory wire?

 

Why do you think you need a new wire? If you think the stock wiring isn't thick enough, examine this photo of a $2,000 Focal 165-KRX3 speaker. How thick is the internal wiring in the speaker? Looks about as thick as the factory wiring to me, and copper is copper is copper, so don't think you'll get improved sound quality from some *gag* monster wire or other gimmick, you're only trying to fool yourself. Speakers run on a/c current, not d/c like your amp, so more power doesn't require huge, thick wires. (Thanks Nikola Tesla!)



Now, if you're bi-amping at the trunk and need to run new wire anyway, you might as well replace both sets of wires since you're there anyway.

Search this forum for 'molex door' if you feel there's good reason to do it, and you'll get a lot of experiences. I don't think it's worth the trouble and potential damage.

https://g35driver.com/forums/audio-v...ont-doors.html

https://g35driver.com/forums/audio-v...onnectors.html

https://g35driver.com/forums/audio-v...tastrophe.html

https://g35driver.com/forums/audio-v...olex-plug.html

https://g35driver.com/forums/audio-v...t-diagram.html

 

I am not neccicaraly trying to go thicker gage, I am planing to run 2 6's on each door, one for mid-high's and one for mid-lows. An I am just going to run one 14.4 wire to each direct from the amps, without any joins or breaks.

 

What speakers are you running? I really hope it's something like this:

Except that's just double the woofers, so it wouldn't work with your "mid-bass" and "mid-highs" you describe. Every decent 3-way component set looks like this:

6.5's for the midbass, 4" for the midrange, and 1" tweeters for the highs, not two 6" in each side.

Running two random speakers, thinking more speakers = better, is a bad idea. You'll need some dedicated processing to actually get to work, especially with the separate placement of the two speakers.

I'm just going to try a shot in the dark, and guess you've got four 6" speakers from your previous car(s) that you've collected, rather than a proper 3-way component set? If this is the case, pick the better of the pair and use those, more speakers without proper processing and tuning will sound WORSE. Is it ever easier to hear two people talking standing next to each other saying the same thing than one of them saying it alone, more loudly and clearly? Why would you think music played from speakers would be any different?

WTF is a 14.4 wire? Wire for 14.4 volts? Whomever is selling you this stuff must be making a mint. The only wire that'll be carrying 14.4 volts DC is the wire to your amp from the battery, while the car is running and generating that much. Hopefully you meant 14 gauge wire, which would be fine for wiring the speakers, but unless you're running an active setup with a 6-channel amp going to 3-way components on each side, not necessary.

Joins and breaks... there's at least two of those in every speaker itself. Nobody on this planet can hear the difference between a solid wire and one that's properly soldered together.

There are ways to have multiple speakers sound good (dedicated audio processor like the JBL MS-8), there are reasons to run your own wire (bi-amping), but you haven't given a reason for you to do either of these things.

 

I'm sorry I ment one 8" for mid bass and one 6" for the mid range...
And I'm using an rcf for the 8" and a bema for the mid range...
The 8's are gonna b on a separate amp coming from a seperate channel of the crossover an eq so they can b tuned at different frequencies....
14.4 wire is use mostly used in commercial buildings, it is just 4 separate 14 gage wires wrapped tightly and shielded cable.

 

Okay, now this install makes much more sense, and definitely is reason to run your own wire through the molex.

With that much work for custom-mounting and such, you may want to just remove the doors completely. It definitely makes going through the molex a lot easier, and probably won't hurt with mounting the woofers in the door panels with gravity working for you.