Do you have pictures?

Also, sound waves and such will follow any path. The purpose of sound deadener is to reduce and minimize road noise and unwanted noise, such as when you knock on the door in a certain area, but if have areas that are not covered with deadener, they will resonate.

I would see if that piece comes off, otherwise your only solution is to deal with it, put deadener on the piece itself, or if it is removable, remove it and put the deadener there and the bar back on, just hope it fits back on without a problem. Or you can add more deadener. Some deadener is more effective than others, so you may need more layers.

Here's another thing you can try. Use a closed cell foam on top of the deadener. You would apply it with somethin like 3M Super 90. I don't know what Rammat's product is called but with Second Skin it's called Overkill. That will help. And to go a step further would be to put Rattle Pad between the door and door panel, which is an open cell foam.

Here are some pics of my previous car to give you an idea of what I'm talking about.

Bare door:


Layer of Damplifier:


Speaker Tweaker kit (deflex pad to improve midbass):


Overkill over deadener:


Deadener on exterior shell of door:


Rattle pad over deadener on exterior shell of door:

 

really its not worth it to most of us to go all out on deadening

unless you run a REALLY high end setup and have imaging spot on.

don't get me wrong deadening helps but for most of us we wont notice a drastic diffrance in full strength deadending.

I say do in the interior door panel and as much as you can without taking out the interior metal panel( you know what I mean).

 

Here's a pic of the inside of my door.

http://slap.gotdns.org/door.jpg

The horizontal bars you see are actually welded to the door, so they're not removable. I didn't want to lay the raammat over the bar for fear of getting in the way of the window travel.

I haven't seen that speaker pad before which you show in that one picture. It just looks like a rubber matt. Do you notice a difference in mid-bass? Looks interesting, but I wouldn't be able to use something like that anyways since one of the bars is right behind where the speaker goes.

I'm sure what I've got in there already will suffice. I just figured if I'm going to go through all the hassle, may as well do it right, ya know? On the plus side, the door panels are easy to get off so I could always add extra layers at a later time. Before I took the panels off I noticed that the main rattles were the rear deck and the door panels, right by the reflector caused by hitting the door panel. The rear deck I fixed pretty well. Turns out the main culprit is a plastic snap piece which rattles against the metal deck. I just took it out, wrapped the edges in a thin foam, and snapped back into place. No more rattle. But I also raammatted the bottom of the deck, and put a layer of ensolite on the underside of the deck finisher...so that should take care of the rear deck. Door panels I'm still deciding on how to fix.

 

If there's nothing that goes on those bars, I'd put a layer of deadener on them and that will really help.

Blazeplacid, the purpose of the foam is to absorb some of the unwanted sound waves caused by resonating frequencies, thus recommended. Slizzap, I believe ensolite is the Rammaat version of Overkill by Second Skin...thin foam right?

Also, not taking out the interior metal panel as slizzap did would be a very wrong choice. Think about it like this...when driving, you get road noise. The best way to attack that is at the source, which would be the exterior of the door, but that would look ugly, so whats next, the inside of the door. If you were to do it on the outer shell like you mention, you have quite a bit of road noise still. And even worse, when you have music playing, the soundwaves will be reflected causing more unwanted vibration and rattles, thus doing the inside of the door reduces and minimizes to unwanted rattles/vibrations.

As for the deflex pad, I can't tell you to be honest if I noticed a difference since I had my stock speakers in before I did the deadening and put it some DLS Iridiums right after. From people I've talked to it does help quite a bit and does improve midbass and midrange. You can buy them from PartsExpress I believe, just not the second skin brand, which honestly probably doesn't make a difference.

 

Yes, Ensolite appears to be Raammat's version of Overkill. It's thin foam maybe 1/8" thick.

I'll take a look tonight and see if I can put a layer or 2 over the bar. I just have to see how much clearance is between those bars and the window.

On a related note, I don't remember who it was offhand, possibly the original thread starter, but insulation was placed in the exterior cavities. Is that safe to do? That's fiberglass insulation and I figure it's probably not the best stuff to be breathing in. There's probably a likelihood of that being breathed in within the cabin.

 

I would only use fiberglass insulation in a sealed box, anywhere else where there are open cavities it is definitely not a good idea. It's better off to completely seal a door free of holes and air leaks using sheet metal, wood and deadener IMO.

 

not fully true

most door speakers are made to be played "free air" as in the speaker is screwed in the door (as much of us have them) the metal interior door panel acts as an infinite baffle.

higher end comps and such are made to be in small sealed "boxes" that are built into the doors. For best results build kick panels

but if you like the way foam in the doors and such sounds cool

everyone likes thier sound a little diffrent.

I love mid....maybe to much for some.
Id rather have a mid moving my pant leg than subs.

 

Midbass ftw. When I referred to using FG insulation in a sealed box I meant for a sub enclosure, I've never used with speakers, though I might try it out when doing kicks.

 

I think kickpanels maybe my first fiberglass project

 

I'd do it myself, but I think it's a bit tough, at least for me. But it may be tougher to fit some 10" Peerless SLS in the doors. Worst comes to worst I'll stick with 8's. I decided to go with an IB setup for my subs...don't want a 4 cu. ft. enclosure because i want to retain trunk space.

 

best thing about doing it yourself and for yourself
you can go at your own pace, and if you mess up you can redo it

 

Very true. I might have a buddy of mine do it for me. He charges I think 150 for the pair. But knowing me, a build would take FOREVER lol. Never got to finish my last one.

 

I tried putting an extra layer in the driver side door. I already had 2 layers between each of the horizontal bars, then I added a layer over each of the horizontal bars. It didn't make much of a difference, it seemed to me like it was reduced but by very little. Maybe it's just because of the sheer size of the single door panel that you get the slight resonance. Interesting thing is that the resonance went down even further after putting the motor and glass back in the door. So after putting the door back together it seems pretty acceptable to me.

For future reference, for anyone else out there, I would just do 2 layers between the bars, and any other panel you can get to. 2 layers is definitely better than 1, which you can test just by knocking on the outside of the panel. Anything more is just a waste.

That being said, has anyone fully deadened the trunk area? I did the foam in the trunk lid, then covered it with raammat and ensolite. I also put some raammat in the corners of the side panels that I could get to, but I haven't done the trunk floor. I have some left over, probably enough to cover the floor, but I'm just wondering if it's worth it. The trunk floor itself seems pretty solid so it seems to me it would just be a waste of time and material. But I'm curious if anyone that deadened the trunk floor noticed a bit of difference. Or if you have any suggestions to use up the last bit on that I may have overlooked.

 

OP, one question i have is...how did u get an avatar and ur not a premier member???...LOL sry for being off topic!...

 

With the extra you have I would do the areas in the trunk or anywhere on the car where its just sheet metal or very hollow.