Sedan trunk area ground point..
#1
Sedan trunk area ground point..
Hey folks. I've been trying to find the best ground point for my new amp in the trunk, but every bolt or screw thread is powder coated. Where did you all ground your amps? I tried using the brass bracket for the stock premium amp, but I got a lot of alternator whine. Thanks for the help.
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Originally Posted by peet
FYI running a cable back to battery from an amp is the worst thing you could ever do. Short whip to a close by chassis point is the ideal.
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It's what works for YOUR particular installation. Short grounds can create noise (in some cases) and long grounds can create ground loops (which cause noise). In the G, which is a "unibody" type without a ladder frame, you should be able to ground just about anywhere you can get enough metal to hold your ground lug.
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Originally Posted by Texasscout
It's what works for YOUR particular installation. Short grounds can create noise (in some cases) and long grounds can create ground loops (which cause noise). In the G, which is a "unibody" type without a ladder frame, you should be able to ground just about anywhere you can get enough metal to hold your ground lug.
The best ground is how I said above. Do not just attach it to a bolt on the trunk and expect it to be a good ground. Most of the time it isn't.
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Originally Posted by G35_TX
False. Short grounds 95% of the time do not cause noise. They are what standard for a high end install.
The best ground is how I said above. Do not just attach it to a bolt on the trunk and expect it to be a good ground. Most of the time it isn't.
The best ground is how I said above. Do not just attach it to a bolt on the trunk and expect it to be a good ground. Most of the time it isn't.
It's what works for YOUR particular installation. Short grounds can create noise (in some cases) and long grounds can create ground loops (which cause noise). In the G, which is a "uni-body" type without a ladder frame, you should be able to ground just about anywhere you can get enough metal to hold your ground lug.
I must disagree with YOU on this. It's what works for YOUR particular installation. As an Amateur Radio Operator, I'm coming from a Radio Frequency point of view. ANY poor or long or short ground can create noise or ground loops. I know how to ground a car. I have 1/2" ground strap with soldered lugs on my doors, hood, hatch, frame, exhaust, battery, engine, and anything else that could cause a problem. I have ferrite split beads on all the Radio frequency noise sources, ignition wires, computer, alternator, fuel pump, etc.
In the end it's what works for your install. You are correct, the shorter the leads the better, but sometimes, you need to run a ground directly to the battery to make the noise go away and sometimes you can ground right at the unit.
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Being a Radio Operator and understanding Electronics is completely different. I have installed a few high end stereo systems with over 2000 watts. Trust me when I say in car stereos 99% OF THE TIME its best to use the shortest ground cable possible. And always make sure the ground cable is equal or greater in size than the power cable. This prevents any engine noise or a bad ground.
The the user above, the longer the cable, the more chances of engine noise.
The the user above, the longer the cable, the more chances of engine noise.
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Originally Posted by khsonic03
Why? If you are running a 0 guage power cable to the amp, and then a 0 guage ground wire back to the battery, aren't you creating LESS chance of interference from other components that are grounded to the chasis?
And, yes, I do understand electronics (I hold an EXTRA class FCC licence, the highest)
Last edited by Texasscout; 07-25-2005 at 04:08 PM.