I've done many audio installs into vehicles as a hobby for myself for years, and never have I been so stumped. Let me give a basic history and maybe someone can help, I'd really appreciate it..

1. 2005 350z Touring
2. About a year ago I installed a PAC-AAINIS (aux input) for an IPOD. Went well.
3. Today, I bought an XM-Roady. Figured i'd add it to the conglomeration of equipment. First I disassembeled the cig-lighter adapter it came with becuase it has a step down converter in it for 12v-5v. Hardwired it to the switched wire for the stereo like I did w/ the power adapter for the IPod (belkin). Upon power up of everything, the LED's turn on for the IPOD and XM units power supplies. Then I saw them flicker on and off showing me there was probably a short somewhere. I then turned the key off, heard a pop and noticed that the phone charger plugged into the accessory plug near the seats would turn on and off rapidly followed by a clicking noise in the dash somewhere. When I turned the key back to on, everything would turn back on, besides the radio. I then unplugged everything and just plugged the radio in bypassing all power supplies/aux adapter. The stereo does not power up (the clicking is gone). I figured I blew a fuse somewhere.

I then proceeded to check fuses both inside and out (including the engine fuses behind the battery and in front of the battery). I didn't seem to find any bad ones.

I hooked a voltmeter up to the harness for the stereo, for the memory wire I got a constant 12volts, for the accessory wire I saw 6 volts, and it kept dropping! After about 5 minutes it was down to 2 volts. I'm sure it's at 0 by now. It reminded me of a un-charging capasitor.

Any ideas? I'm stumped and tired. Could a slowly burning fuse cause the rapid power loss? Please help!!

 

you could have messed up the radio causing a ground to come from your radio into the power wire. i would try to unplug the radio and let it sit for about 15 mins. you might have also partly blown a fuse. when you hook up that stuff it might cause the amprage to go too low and short something. i had that problem on the new eclipse av7000 when i hooked it up to our diplay power and it fried the motors for the screen. like i said unplug it and let it reset and see what happens

 

Maybe I wasn't clear, sorry... I did unplug the radio and thats how I checked the voltage w/ the voltmeter. The switched wire (red) kept dropping.

 

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is it the stock or aftermarket radio? if stock, the red isnt the turn on, its grey.

 

Did you use a relay? The accessory signal is for low amp draw only and should be used to trigger a relay that actually powers any device.

 

this whole situation sounds weird because i use those wires to power accesories and never need any relay. the only thing im thinking is that the radio might be extra sensitive for some reason. im wondering if hes using the amp turn on instead of the acc turn-on.

 

I'm not using the Amp turn on wire. I am using the 12v switched (RED) wire. The same one that is used for the PAC aux in box. The Roady's power supply is 5v 2amp. I'm wondering if i've drawn too much current, but I don't think so. The fuses for switched audio are usually 15amp.

 

Ok, never mind - I misunderstood - I thought you were using the acc turn on lead (remote turn on).

If you're using a switched power line - you should be fine.

Are you using the stock radio?

The first thing to figure out is what component is bad or has gone bad.

You've already disconnected everything else except the radio (HU), right?

I would disconnect the radio also and test the power lead again. Does the power still drop? If it does, then the "issue" is still in the car (not in any component removed).

It does sound like you have a short if the power level drops on that Positive lead.

 

I've said it a few times already.. I'm using the STOCK radio and have unplugged it in order to use a volt meter. I have nothing plugged in, with the KEY on, I get a constant 12v on the power line, and a dropping voltage on the accessory switched wire (where I had everything plugged into).

 

Actually that's the 1st time you said it. You also didn't mention if you have the Bose or non-Bose system. Tell me the color or pin # for the wire you are using for the "accessory" (should be light green). I will take a snapshot of the circuit diagram from the 04 coupe service manual and post it if you need it.

All I can think of is to trace that wire backwards into the electrical system to find the point of failure.

If you don't hook up that wire, but instead use +12V constant to the "accessory" lead on the radio, then the radio should power up - that's another test you could try (if you are *certain* of the pinouts).

 

It's a 350z, touring edition with Bose. I was using the red wire next to the black (ground) wire for accessory. Are you saying that the green wire is accessory, not the red? The fat yellow wire is 12v constant.

 

In the g35 /w bose the colors (at the amp in the trunk) are:

control = light blue +12v ignition (remote turn on wire)
backup = yellow/red +12v Batt
"power ground" = black/red

I don't know what "power ground" exactly is, I know I don't use it, that's about it

 

Ok, I need to know the wires for the headunit, not the bose amp. But thanks

 

The wiring diagrams at the back of the HU (not amp) are separate on the G35 if you have the Bose system or Base system (even though the HU is Clarion) - sorry about the confusion.

I am afraid I'll lead you astray by giving you the correct wires for a G35 vs 350Z. You can download the service manual for $20 I believe - or get it on eBay for not much more. You need the wiring diagram for your 05 350Z - maybe someone on the 350z board has it...


Attached is the PDF for the Bose on a G35. Note the wire color is LG for acc.

My manual says yellow is 12 v as you say.

It also says that red is the output to a speaker - so it should fluctuate between 2V and 0V. or -2V and 0. It should never be at 12V on a G35 anyway.

Good luck!