I recently got a used 2006 G35 6MT coupe with the sport wheel/tire package (19" rims). This model does not have the Brembo brakes and is otherwise bone stock.

I am considering doing a track day event (HPDE) at Carolina MotorSports Park. I have never done any type of track or autocross driving. This is my first sports car.

I am getting conflicting advice on what I need to do about brake pads. Some local Z club folks have said there is no way I can drive with the stock pads and need racing compound pads. I've looked at CarboTech ceramic pads and they have no pads that they recommend for both street and track use.

However, one of my partners at work drives a fully race prepped 944 in time trials with the local Porsche club. He also has a totally stock boxter and he said he has done many track day events with stock street brakes. He says I do not need to change brake pads as a complete beginner. He says they will wear heavily but will not likely limit me significantly since I will not be very aggressive or fast. He says if I continue to do it I will definitely need track compound brakes but not now.

What do you guys think?

George

 

Hmmm, maybe there is a better place to post this?

George

 

Is this your first time? If so, there's a good chance you'll be driving slower than most would on track day.

In which case, if you have relatively new stock pads and fresh fluid, those should be enough to last you the entire day. Of course, hit the pits after a few laps to see where you are on the pads. I'd hate for you to assume that you're fine the entire day, only for your pads to give up on you after only a few laps.

Take it easy at first, inspect, push a little, inspect, push some more, inspect, etc.

As your friend mentioned, if your skill starts to overwhelm the pads, then it's time to change those out. Carbotech doesn't suggest any street pads for track and vice versa, but you can get by with the Bobcats for minor track use -- IIRC, it's still rated for higher temperatures than the OEM pads. Some people even use XP8's for daily driving, some experience noise, others don't.

When i last spoke to Mike from Carbotech, he suggested Bobcat's all around for daily, then swapping out at least the fronts with an XP8 for light track.

 

Thanks for the reply. Yes, this will be my first time doing any sort of event. And yes, I'll be starting out slow.

I think that if my current pads look good I'll just use them at the track. If they don't look good I'll put Bobcats on use them at the track since I'm unlikely to be pushing things very hard. And if I end up getting into it I'll get some XP8s or maybe even 10s for the track only.

I'll get the brake system flushed and put better fluid in before I go to the track.

I wish I had Brembo brakes on it. It looks so easy to change the pads on those but there is no way I'm going to spend $6000 or more for a brake system on a car I paid $17k for.

Thanks again for the advice.

George

 

Hmm, how would you inspect pads on the track day? Take a few laps, pull the wheels off and measure the pads? Lick them to determine how hot they are? Spit on them to see if spit evaporates?

This is a track day and you are in ~300 hp car which is not exacly featherlight. Even if you "take it easy" and will not exceed say 100 mph, you still going to overheat stock pads. It is the weakest spot and something which will screw your enjoyment of the day. Wear is not going to be an issue, but heat and fade will-lousy pads will loose their effectiveness after 5-6hard brakings, but will not wear a fraction of a mm.

Get the pads for street/strack-EBC Blue (I had EBC Yellow before they came up with EBC blue). Both yellow and blue can be driven on the street.
www.perfectbrakes.com

Porsche is a car which is in a totally different league. "Stock" pads for Porsche might be made with some high temp street/track compound, they already come with "big brakes" and multipiston calipers. Boxter is also a quite lighter car than G.

 

That's exactly what i did -- between runs i lifted the car and inspected the brakes. When i first started the "sport", i ran on OEM pads and didn't know how far i could push them. I also had an IR thermometer handy. The pads worked just fine for my skill level then, which sounds like where the OP is at, at the moment.

It's never a bad idea to inspect if and when you can.

 

stop-tech street performance pads are also a great choice. They may not be as racey as the EBC compounds, but they are a to/from track pad with great street manors. I used them for my 04 brembo coupe with RBF and SS lines with little to no fade and while overall performance could have been better, they never put me in a situation where I was worried about them failing.

You might find the street performance pads to be more affordable than the EBC as well. You can get them from conzeptzperformance.com or rockauto.com. Even without the lines or the RBF, I think they will still hold up fine for you on your first HPDE, but as you continue to explore the limits of your car and your talent, I would suggest doing lines and fluid sooner than later.

 

Thanks again for the additional advice guys.

Obender, I simply meant that I would make sure the stock pads were in decent shape prior to going to the event. In other words, this is a used car and I have not looked at the brake pads yet. They might be nearly gone right now for all I know. If they're toast now, I'd change them before going. See?

And you guys have to admit that this brake stuff is hard to sort out. One company says that there are no brakes that work on both street and track. Another company says theirs will. Some say a novice can have a fun track day on stock pads, others say no way.

With all that in mind, I think I will replace the pads before track day with the 'raciest' street pads that I can live with for day to day driving and run those at the track. If it really holds me back, I'll get a set of track pads for the next event.

Thank again guys.

George

 

George, yeah, it's a little tricky because each set-up is different, and the tracks are also quite different with each instance.

I think you will be fine with stock pads, or "racy" pads. This is an HPDE after all. You will likely be put in the green group and will do mostly lead/follow exercises. The instructors are well aware of novice skills and stock vehicle set-ups.

Just go out there, learn, and have fun!

 

Change the brake fluid to a DOT 4 spec : Wilwood 570, Motol, etc. Install braided stainless steel brake hoses. Bend the front half of the rotor's dust shiel out to 45 degrees for cooling air. Also, install Russell 'Speed Bleeders' on your calipers. Makes bleeding the brakes a 1 person job. If doing a 2 day event, bleed your brakes before the start of the second day. EBC pads work for me. (30+ years roadracing)

 

Thanks. Will look into the EBC pads. What advantage do the braied stainless steel hoses give? Do they dissipate heat better?

 

It helps prevent line expansion, which the rubber oem lines tend to do in extreme conditions. This results in a more consistent pedal feel.

 

Thanks, good to know.

 

Been doing a bit of research and I'm about to settle on EBC Yellowstuff pads. Inspected rear pads the other day and they look thin so it is probably time anyway. Since I have no idea when I'll be able to make it to a track day event I think the Yellowstuff is probably more practical than the Bluestuff for primary street use.

Here is my plan/budget:

1) Have rotors shaved by Pro-cut system
2) Yellowstuff pads installed
3) Stainless braided hoses installed
4) System flushed, Motul or similar put in

One concern is the Motul. I've been told it is very hygroscopic and not suitable for long term daily use. Any thoughts? Are any of the racing, high boiling point fluids suitable for long term use?

Sorry to be a nuisance but appreciate all and any advice.

 

Any brake fluid is hygroscopic, but it's true that some absorb faster than others.

The least of them is, at least from what i've read, is the ATE Super Blue/Orange twins. General rule of thumb is, the higher the boiling point of the fluid, the faster it will absorb moisture.

However, i read a note here by Chris (AP Racing/Stillen) that seems to imply that the Motul is actually good for a daily driver and that it doesn't absorb any faster than the average. You may want to try and dig up some of his recent posts in case i misunderstood what he posted.