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DIY: Rear Wheel Bearing Removal

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  #211  
Old 09-05-2016, 07:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bythabay View Post
easy way to remove the bearing stuck to the spindle/knuckle:

http://www.harborfreight.com/heavy-d...-pc-60327.html

just bolt that up and slide the hammer hard, the assembly will come off.
For me, this split the bearing in two with part of it coming off with the hub and the other frozen to the knuckle. The tap out method did it for me
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  #212  
Old 09-05-2016, 08:10 PM
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Originally Posted by GreenPenguin View Post
For me, this split the bearing in two with part of it coming off with the hub and the other frozen to the knuckle. The tap out method did it for me
I think I need to talk to my mechanic friend to see if he has a recommended size draft pin. I've been using a a punch that's been leaving indentation on the bolts. Did you use a deep well socket to hammer the bolts or did you use a skinny?

Fortunately nothing is broken this time I've taken apart my car so I can put it back together and drive to work tomorrow
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  #213  
Old 09-06-2016, 04:37 AM
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Originally Posted by ProBballChamp View Post
I think I need to talk to my mechanic friend to see if he has a recommended size draft pin. I've been using a a punch that's been leaving indentation on the bolts. Did you use a deep well socket to hammer the bolts or did you use a skinny?

Fortunately nothing is broken this time I've taken apart my car so I can put it back together and drive to work tomorrow
Its been over 3 years now but I recall using a punch with a smaller diameter than the bolt heads. At the time, I was more concerned with damaging the threads that I didnt even notice if there were any indentations. Surely there were some though...
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  #214  
Old 07-06-2017, 10:32 PM
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[QUOTE=drsifu1;4275778]Parts that were ordered:

$119- Hub assembly (comes with studs pre-installed)
$56- Bearing assembly
$16- Seal
$4- New axle nut

Below picture is courtesy of WaiJai. It includes everything I bought, just missing the axle nut. Nut is not required, but it's for my own piece of mind.

The hub assembly is also NOT required to replace the bearing, but again, it's for my own piece of mind.



I was changing my rotors today and, I stripped one of the studs. I tried to put a new one in and, stripped the inside of the hub assembly. I've looked online for a new hub and bearing and it costs around 200 for the hub alone. Where did you find the Hub for 100 dollars?
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  #215  
Old 07-07-2017, 11:50 PM
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[QUOTE=Pjanoo;7111099]
Quote:
Originally Posted by drsifu1 View Post
Parts that were ordered:

$119- Hub assembly (comes with studs pre-installed)
$56- Bearing assembly
$16- Seal
$4- New axle nut

Below picture is courtesy of WaiJai. It includes everything I bought, just missing the axle nut. Nut is not required, but it's for my own piece of mind.

The hub assembly is also NOT required to replace the bearing, but again, it's for my own piece of mind.



I was changing my rotors today and, I stripped one of the studs. I tried to put a new one in and, stripped the inside of the hub assembly. I've looked online for a new hub and bearing and it costs around 200 for the hub alone. Where did you find the Hub for 100 dollars?
​​​​​​​Timken HA590255 $95 (rear wheel hub and bearing assembly) from Amazon - great reviews and this unit from Timken evidently last longer than the other brands without issues. $200 is way to much. If you find cheaper that's the correct part number. Do not pay more than $100 for the hub and bearing please
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  #216  
Old 06-26-2018, 01:04 AM
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Just did half this job today on my car. I was able to pull out the whole assembly from the knuckle using a slide hammer. My hub and bearing was so fused though when I went to take it apart on my press the inner race was stuck. I ordered new hubs, because I would probably end up cutting into the hub with an angle grinder.

I also took everything off including the e-brake hardware, so I could clean and grease all that stuff. Using my 1/2 inch Milwaukee with a universal swivel joint made getting those four bolts out from the hub real easy.

I also took the axles out to clean up the rust and be able to grease them. I had to use a torch on one side, because the CV axle was fused to the flange. I was quoted 440 per side by my mechanic and I did these two for about 240 bucks including the press I had to buy (12 ton).
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assembly, axle, bearing, bearings, g35, hub, part, play, rear, removal, remove, replace, replacement, ruined, vertical, wheel

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