Originally Posted by bythabay

easy way to remove the bearing stuck to the spindle/knuckle:

http://www.harborfreight.com/heavy-d...-pc-60327.html

just bolt that up and slide the hammer hard, the assembly will come off.

Originally Posted by GreenPenguin

For me, this split the bearing in two with part of it coming off with the hub and the other frozen to the knuckle. The tap out method did it for me

Originally Posted by ProBballChamp

I think I need to talk to my mechanic friend to see if he has a recommended size draft pin. I've been using a a punch that's been leaving indentation on the bolts. Did you use a deep well socket to hammer the bolts or did you use a skinny?

Fortunately nothing is broken this time I've taken apart my car so I can put it back together and drive to work tomorrow

Originally Posted by drsifu1

Parts that were ordered:

$119- Hub assembly (comes with studs pre-installed)
$56- Bearing assembly
$16- Seal
$4- New axle nut

Below picture is courtesy of WaiJai. It includes everything I bought, just missing the axle nut. Nut is not required, but it's for my own piece of mind.

The hub assembly is also NOT required to replace the bearing, but again, it's for my own piece of mind.



I was changing my rotors today and, I stripped one of the studs. I tried to put a new one in and, stripped the inside of the hub assembly. I've looked online for a new hub and bearing and it costs around 200 for the hub alone. Where did you find the Hub for 100 dollars?

Originally Posted by coffeysm

Just did half this job today on my car. I was able to pull out the whole assembly from the knuckle using a slide hammer. My hub and bearing was so fused though when I went to take it apart on my press the inner race was stuck. I ordered new hubs, because I would probably end up cutting into the hub with an angle grinder.

I also took everything off including the e-brake hardware, so I could clean and grease all that stuff. Using my 1/2 inch Milwaukee with a universal swivel joint made getting those four bolts out from the hub real easy.

I also took the axles out to clean up the rust and be able to grease them. I had to use a torch on one side, because the CV axle was fused to the flange. I was quoted 440 per side by my mechanic and I did these two for about 240 bucks including the press I had to buy (12 ton).

Originally Posted by Brennan Wallman

Originally Posted by LElzie

First off, I would like to thank you for such a detailed post on how to perform this work.

I have had this clicking for months and it was beginning to drive me crazy. I called the dealer yesterday and they quoted me 300 bucks for the job. I went and purchased 45 dollars worth of parts and what not that I did not already have, rolled up my sleeve, printed this post along with owners manual on the axle and got to it.

I was skeptical about this fixing my problem, but after greasing up the axle and putting everything back together, I went for a brisk drive to hear only the sounds of my Rev-Up Engine and Injen intake sucking in the cool evening air. It was music to my ears. No more clicking. All the conditions that previously generated the problem have gone. So I will keep a listen out for it over the next few weeks\months and see how it goes.

You saved me 250 bucks and MAN It is satisfying to know that I did it and have had success.

Sorry for the ramble, but I am pumped. Thanks again.

Originally Posted by drsifu1

agreed about reusing the hub. but i've read that it's always a good idea to replace both. bad wheel bearing may have put unnecessary stress on the hub. i'm not going back in to fix something that may cause problems in the future.

there is very limited space behind the axle to get to those four bolts. Without removing the axle itself, there is no way in hell you can fit a socket to get those bolts out.

before removing the hub assembly, I was able to push the shaft in far enough to get more room for the bolts, but still could not fit a socket to get them out. after I removed the hub, it gave me more room to wiggle the shaft to get my socket at those bolts.

how did you get to those four bolts? might help members avoid having to rent that tool from autozone.

noticed you are a mechanic at an Infiniti dealership? If so, any other tips you might have would be appreciated. Looking the the service manual, it instructs you to remove all the suspension components attached to the axle and than remove the axle itself. Another member removed some suspension components and the drive shaft where it connects to the differential to get to the bolts. I thought I was going the easier route, but maybe not. Any idea on costs to have the bearing pressed on?

PM sent

thanks in advance.