Responding to find this thread again for reference soon. I'm tired of being chased around by a small prop-plane, so have ordered new bearings.

I wanted to get new hubs to keep down time to a minimum, but the hubs have gone up in price since the original post. They're now around $180 each.

I found these hubs from Febest on Amazon for $81ea, http://amzn.com/B00DMA5MW6 Are they worth using, or should I just re-use my hubs?

 

I've just reused by hubs. I tossed each on a machine and checked for wobble and runout and were pretty straight, so I reused them and got the same amount of miles out of my front bearings as the originals (80K) so I don't think it really mattered for me between going new or reusing.

I have another bad front bearing. I'm reusing the hub.

Unless someone can give me a reason other than excessive runout, or physical defects, I don't see how these can go bad....especially when the failure mode of each bearing I've replaced is usually internal galling and none have had any wobble.

 

^Those AMZN ones come from Estonia, tho lol My rear pass one is making a jet sound, so going to be replacing it this weekend, hopefully. Since I don't have a press, I was going to use my 3 ton jack up against a firm upper platform lol Kidding. Probably going to hit up a local shop to press the bearing on.Here's a good video on how to remove the bearing without leaving the race on:

 

Did the deed today. Very simple/straightforward job overall. I did the rear pass side, so no exhaust troubles. Unbolted the axle and slid right off. Everything else was even easier. Hub was frozen in, so I threaded the bolts and hammered on them for a few. Pressed the old POS bearing out via the method posted above (large bearing separator + harbor freight POS 3-jaw puller). Broke the tip of the jaw puller (couldn't handle that torque, yo), so had to use a big nut/washer to apply the pressure on top of the race driver instead. Popped right off, then drove to Firestone and hustled them to press the new one on for $20 (PepSuckers wanted $109...). Once on, the assembly only took about 20-30 minutes. No more jet sounds from the rear and she's driving like a G35 should again, minus some front end clunks that I don't want to get into just yet lol Thanks for the thread and resources.

Some vids of the old POS bearing:


https://810920ae4e86fe71a7b1846d7178...501_113126.mp4

https://810920ae4e86fe71a7b1846d7178...501_130947.mp4

 

Man I knew there had to be a tool available to do this. I borrowed a puller from Autozone and I was trying to remove that stupid ring retainer from the hub I took off the rear left and the puller kept slipping off. I'm going to Harbor Freight today for one of those bearing separators. I hope they have some in the store. And I hope this is the LAST time I change this bearing. This is the third time for this side. The first bearing replacement I replaced the hub too so I didn't need to remove the bad bearing, and on the second replacement where I chose to reuse the hub I bought on the previous replacement, the retainer came off with the rest of the bearing. And the retainer came off nicely with the one replacement I've had to do almost ~80K ago on the rear right. Also, for the first replacement on the right and the second replacement of the left, I used a tool for measuring the run-out and there was none.

I hate buying a tool I hope to only have to use one time, though. But if I keep the car much longer (I'm at 282K), I may have to change that bearing a fourth time and use this bearing separator again.

 

Go ahead and return it, that's what I did, especially after the jaw puller broke... As long as you have the receipt, they shouldn't act up. Or keep the damn thing, it's only $30

 

Are the front and rear hub and bearing on a 2003 coupe the same part ?

Also where did you guys buy your parts from?

 

The front hub/bearing is a single unit sold together, unlike the rears. I would recommend purchasing the parts form rockauto.com, good prices. Timken recently stopped carrying the NTN branded bearing, now I believe moog sells the NTN bearing, but I'm not sure.

 

Hey guys, my driver rear wheel is making excessive kind of wobbly continues noise. I jacked the car up last month and found a slight wobble play in the driver rear, passenger rear is fine. My question is, how long can I keep driving with bad wheel bearing before it gives up?

I already ordered the 2 Timken bearings from rockauto since I thought it will be a good idea to replace in pairs especially since it is a RWD. I could not find any that comes with the whole wheel hub assembly as well as most of you noted.

 

anyone out there have trouble getting the bearing-hub assm off of the Suspension arm after removing the four bearing bolts? I thnk my assembly is so rusty but I think this might have adhered itself to be suspension arm assembly. anyone else have this problem? does anyone have any recommendations?

 

A member named bythebay has many helpful videos on youtbe and other sites. For this issue, he made a video demonstrating how to get the assembly off by loosening all four bolts but not completely taking the bolts out. Then with a punch tool and hammer, tapping on the loosened bolts until the hub starts to free itself. It was demonstrated in a fx35 but its the same for the G as well. Check out the video below:


https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...p-snx9b9yCnJ1A

 

My Hub is frozen on too. I am going to try your method of hammering on a bolt. Did you have trouble swinging the hammer since the stupid axle is in the way? Also your bearing sounds awful, it can't imagine having to drive on that for too long with out going mad.

 

I guess I never go that far into that video, all of content from bythebay is GOLD and should be framed at Nissan's headquarters, lol. But seriously, the guy deserves a medal

 

You have to remove the axle first, then bang away.

 

easy way to remove the bearing stuck to the spindle/knuckle:

http://www.harborfreight.com/heavy-d...-pc-60327.html

just bolt that up and slide the hammer hard, the assembly will come off.