hey guys, ima newb to g35 driver... as far as posting. but not a newb at all when it comes to cars and such.


basically on my s2k the car is stock adjustable to a certain extent and really does not need aftermarket camber kits unless u need sever camber changes.

on my old civic i had SPC kit which was nice.. but i basically only needed it to adjust the toe.

in the G35 i plan on lowering it considerably.. and my main goal would be to fix the toe back in alignment and the camber/caster wouldnt really be an issue. if anything i would prefer more camber with my driving style.

my question to G35driver owners is on your coupes when lowered do you have an estimate of the before/after alignment specs and how much of a drop was achieved.

basically im trying to analyze the geometry of the suspension to see how much change is actually happening with the suspension travel changed as well as if you really "NEED" a kit to adjust the toe back in line or camber etc.


if you could post in the following format it would make it easiest to compare/contrast.


Suspension Type:
Amount Lowered:
Before Front Camber:
Before Front Caster:
Before Front Toe:

After front Camber:
After front caster:
After front Toe:

Before Rear Camber:
Before Rear Toe:

After Rear Camber:
After Rear Toe:

If corrected after lowering what kit did you use, and how did the correction work?
thank you

Riley

 

Trignometry solves the angle/length changes................each 1.0" of lowering or raising usually changes the camber 0.83 degrees [decimal increments are just proportional .....0.5" ~~ 0.415 degrees these will be accurate within 10%.

For those that skipped this in 11th grade high school
http://www.carbidedepot.com/formulas-trigright.asp
http://www.1728.com/trigcalc.htm

 

what about toe?

that was another concern because on my s2k when i have compression in one corner due to turning i get a little toe out which affects handling greatly.

thank you

i dont have any diamgram w/ the susp arms lenghts and angles listed so i figured this was the easiest way to ask

 

Ok, what is a considerable drop? Doesn't sound like something someone schooled in pulling the most out of vehicle would say or want to do, so what are your goals in the end?

Rear does suffer from load induced bushing deflection that does impart toe change as one example. Some Grand AM 350Z teams replace the oem bushings with sperical bushings set's like this one http://www.350evo.com/catalog/produc...58edd7a021ada9

Nismo makes their own bushing kit with hard rubber, it is imported into N.A. by PerformanceNissanParts, aka MYNISMO.com. EnergySuspension is on the record as being of the opinion that the oem bushings are quite firm, to the point that they cannot justify the R&D work to market poly replacements.

Front camber: most here fear inside tire wear and adjust to stay within oem specs. Most track people find 2 to 3 degree's to be optimal
Front Toe: use oem adjustment system. Most add toe in because of high front oem caster levels, track crowd goes slightly toe out
Rear camber: oem adjustment system limited, adjustable camber arms are avaliable
Rear toe: oem adjustment system limited, aftermarket toe cam bolts that offer more adjustment range are avaliable. Adjustable radius rods are avaliable, but given the adtachment points have the possibliity of inducing other unwanted geometry changes.

 

Whenever you lower you change the angle of the tie rods so you induce bump/roll steer...........necessary to modify tie rod ends to return the tie rod angle to oem ride height equivalent.

 

yeah i know about the tie rods to get the angle back soi no bump steer.

i want 3-4 neg camber front.
toe in front of course

so front=im good.

rear i guess ill look into the aftermarket toe/camber kits to get around 2-3 neg camber and also slight toe in.

that spericle bearing kit loooks like a good buy

 

thank you again everyone for responses. sorry about my spelling/grammer in a hurry back/forth off site cause ima vendor ona few other sites and get about 400 emails a day :-/

 

All things considered use a tire pyrometer to verify when camber is correct and when it's not.

 

Tires are designed to function best with negative 0.5 degrees camber requiring any more means the suspension is not correcting for body roll [springs sway bars + camber gain curve.]