I have had great success with the Motive bleeder tool! Make sure you order item #Bleeder 0107. It comes with an exact fit reservoir cap for Infinitis' that will not leak. Bleeding or flushing your brakes could not be easier!

Lets do some math-

Cost of bleeder $ 60.00
Quart of Ate Super Blue $12.00

That is $72.00 for your first flush. After that $12.00 a flush. Compare that to what a dealer charges. So far I have flushed our coupe, FX, my son's G20 and other son's mustang (0107 fits Fords also). The savings are adding up.

One word of caution- If you live in an area that has high humidity I would suggest you flush once a year. I live in Florida and I was shocked to see how bad the fluid on my 18 month old FX was! There was a lot of moisture in the fluid.

 

Hey guys, need some help here.
I just bled my brakes today using a mityvac.
When I turned the car on I noticed A LOT of "squish" in the brake pedal.
It starts off with a decent amount of pressure then the pedal sinks to the floor where the pressure returns. It sucks.

Here's the procedure I used.
1. Disconnected negative battery terminal.
2. used mityvac to get as much fluid out of the brake fluid reservoir as I could.
3. refilled the reservoir with new fluid.
4. jacked up right rear, removed wheel, removed nipple cover, attached mityvac hose, pumped it a few times to get some pressure in it, loosened nut, watched fluid come out (there was a lot of air too, I'm assuming coming through the threads of the nut), kept pumping till i got about 2/3 of the mityvac container full, tightened nut, removed hose, replaced nipple cover, replaced wheel, lowered car.
5. Then I checked the fluid in the reservoir under the hood and added some more new fluid to it.
6. So i repeated 4 and 5 for the left front, left rear, and right front, in that order.
7. Then I reconnected the negative battery terminal and shut the hood.

Then I got into it started it up and was all like "oh crap."

Did I not do something I should have or am i missing something.

I called a mechanic and he told me something about an abs thing i needed to activate and that if i brought it in Monday morning they could take care of it for me.
Well screw that. I want to fix this mess on my own.

Any advice guys?

 

Sounds like you let the fluid get too low in the master cylinder and air got into the system. You need to moniter the master cylinder fluid level a few times while bleeding each wheel, unless you get that thing from Mity Vac/ Griot's that automatically maintains fluid level. I have one and it is worth it.

Also, why would you disconnect the battery cable? I have used the Griot's version of the Mity Vac for a few years and think it is the best home brake bleeder. Never had any problems. You also may have overpressurized the system and sucked air past seals. It only takes a few pumps on the Griots, which is a fluid extractor, not the little Mity Vac pump. You did not specify exactly which you used. Or you may have over loosened the bleeder screws and let air in. Another trick is to smear grease around the base of each bleeder screw to seal the air out when it is loosened.

For help bleeding ABS cars Griot's recommends leaving the ignition on and the gear shift in neutral. I always bleed with all 4 wheels off, and the car on jack stands so I can get around the whole car twice quickly. To be thorough with ABS, bleed it, drive on a dirt road and slam on the brakes a few times to activate the ABS and pump brake fluid through it. Then re-bleed the system. There is a tool you can buy that professional shops use to bleed ABS systems. I forget the name, but they are not cheap although used ones turn up on eBay sometimes.

 

hmm,
i'll do it again with the ignition on, keep an eye on the master cyl, and grease up the bleeder screws.

thanks for the tips!!!
i'll let you all know what happens

 

Good luck and be careful with the pump pressure, too much is worse than too little.

 

well i did exactly as i said i was and everything turned out PERFECT!!!

Thanks so much for your help.

I haven't had the fluid flushed since I've owned the thing (45k miles).
Don't bash me here, it's something i never even thought about.
The fluid that I got out looked like iced tea.
It was pretty bad

Now my brakes actually feel more responsive and firmer then before.
I'm going to make this a yearly thing. :-)

 

Kenchan. Do you have a link to the mityvac bottle you are referring to. I'm gonna be doing the same in a little bit and putting in an order on Griot's.

It's on an 05 G35 coupe. It's one bleeder nozzle right? Looks like I can apply this on any other manufacturer if I order the correct diameter clear tubing that fits the car's respective bleeder size. Any info would be helpful.

 

did you do the ABS thing too or just bleed them brakes once?

 

I bleed my brakes about 5-10 times a year...before and sometimes after each track day.

I use the 2 person method...it takes a bit longer than the speedbleeder methods, but it works for me. Usually takes me about 30 minutes.

I use ATE super blue fluid (Motul RBF600 is not worth the $$$ IMO), a plastic water bottle, and basic plastic refrigerator tubing from Home Depot.

1. Jack up the car and put it on jack stands
2. Wheels off.

One person pumps, one loosens the bleed screws.
3. Put pressure on the brake pedal
4. Loosen the bleed screw and let some fluid flow out.
5. Tighten bleed screw
6. Release brake pedal

Repeat this 5-7 times per corner. I do rear right, rear left, front right, front left...in that order.
Repeat the whole process again if you want to flush everything out.

Pay close attention to the fluid level. NEVER let it go below the Low mark or it will suck in air and you'll need to start over. Fluid level drops really fast when you're working on the front left corner.

Make sure all screws are nice and tight, and you're done!

Haven't done the ABS thing...seems like too much effort

 

In case anyone wants to see what the service manual says...

 

ive done everything said in the past 3 pages, and my brake pedal just goes to the floor with little to no effort. I had everything working fine but took my BBK off to get them Powdercoated so now ive go my oem setup and this problem is killing me 4 hours in the cold and no luck. Im usung the 1 person method BTW

 

I used the FSM method and it worked fine. Just need a 2nd person.

How thick are pads with the OEM caliper? Could that be the reason?

 

No that cant be the problem, Im pretty well inclined when it comes to these things but this problem here had given me a run around

 

I just did a brembo swap from non brembos and the brake pedal hits the floor with no effort im using the 2 person method and i bled the brakes 2x Made sure there was always brake fluid in the reservoir any HELP would be apreciated thanks

 

funny, i just did czp rotors and ss lines yesterday and bled them pretty much twice or my whole 1 liter ate bottle and still feels soft. it stops fine but felt better before i did the install. i had ss lines on my wrx and first thing i said was "wow" thats what i was expecting yesterday. just called up dealer and said to rebleed which is what im going to do on sunday..