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if the guys has a hard time take it to a different shop. He is not qualified to do alignment.
If you're doing just the arms then max out the positive camber when you install them. You wont need to adjust them after since you're only getting a degree of positive camber back. I've done this on every SPC install (done quite a few)
If you want the best arms for the money, get the SPL V2's. The new design is similar to the 350EVO's with almost half the price.
If you want the best arms for the money, get the SPL V2's. The new design is similar to the 350EVO's with almost half the price.
AARONHL
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I don't expect him to run into trouble, but I would like to understand how the arms work.
Maxing the arms would be a good idea. How is camber adjusted to be equal on each side?
Maxing the arms would be a good idea. How is camber adjusted to be equal on each side?
Your cross camber shouldn't be much different than stock, every time i've done an alignment on a car with SPC's maxed out, the cross camber is very little.
He would need to lift the front end of the car up (most modern alignment racks have built in jacks) Use a 27mm closed end wrench to loosen the nut, then push or pull on the wheel assembly to adjust the camber, tighten the nut back down. Then lower the car and make sure to jounce it or your alignment will be off as soon as you drive off (because the suspension is not settled in after being lifted up unless you jounce it)
But like i said, cross camber shouldn't be a problem.
He would need to lift the front end of the car up (most modern alignment racks have built in jacks) Use a 27mm closed end wrench to loosen the nut, then push or pull on the wheel assembly to adjust the camber, tighten the nut back down. Then lower the car and make sure to jounce it or your alignment will be off as soon as you drive off (because the suspension is not settled in after being lifted up unless you jounce it)
But like i said, cross camber shouldn't be a problem.
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OK, so it's pretty much an adjust, measure, adjust, measure, etc...
yes, but there is a high chance that you wont need to adjust the front camber at all.
-GP-
-GP-
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Gdup35sedan, do you know the best vendor to buy SPL V2 fronts from? I used SPC revised front for a year and had absolutely no problem with them, but I have an opportunity right now to upgrade so I may as well step up with something better.
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yes, but there is a high chance that you wont need to adjust the front camber at all.
-GP-
OK, that makes sense.yes, but there is a high chance that you wont need to adjust the front camber at all.
-GP-
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Gdup35sedan, do you know the best vendor to buy SPL V2 fronts from? I used SPC revised front for a year and had absolutely no problem with them, but I have an opportunity right now to upgrade so I may as well step up with something better.
Could I have the opportunity to buy your current set?Gdup35sedan, do you know the best vendor to buy SPL V2 fronts from? I used SPC revised front for a year and had absolutely no problem with them, but I have an opportunity right now to upgrade so I may as well step up with something better.
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Sorry, car was totaled and taken away by insurance.Originally Posted by AARONHL
Could I have the opportunity to buy your current set?
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O That sucks!!!
I think you guys talked me into the SPC arms!!!!
I think you guys talked me into the SPC arms!!!!
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On a sedan, no. Spec is -1.2 IIRC. But -1.5 is much, much better than -2.5. I'm at -2.5/-3 right now and my tires go pretty quick. Good thing i work at a tire shop Originally Posted by 813G-WHiP
well is 1 degree enough to get from -2.5 to spec?

I dont know if any of the vendors here have the SPL V2's yet, i'm sure anyone who has advertised the V1 can get the V2.
-GP-
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I have the SPC front and rear.
For the front, Just the a arms itself was not enough, I did both the arms and the spacers.
I'm dumped to the floor with positive camber maxed out on the kit. It's at -1 right now. I estimate that my negative camber was close to -4 before the kit. Good thing I installed the kit and my coils on the same day.
The only thing is to get the ABS sensor back on straight. If its off it will throw mad error codes on yoru dash. Also there is a small dust shield that needs to be cut in order to clear the sensors after the spacers are installed. All in all a great investment IMO.
For the front, Just the a arms itself was not enough, I did both the arms and the spacers.
I'm dumped to the floor with positive camber maxed out on the kit. It's at -1 right now. I estimate that my negative camber was close to -4 before the kit. Good thing I installed the kit and my coils on the same day.
The only thing is to get the ABS sensor back on straight. If its off it will throw mad error codes on yoru dash. Also there is a small dust shield that needs to be cut in order to clear the sensors after the spacers are installed. All in all a great investment IMO.
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well my tires only feather on the inside edges.. i get the awesomeness to work at a shop so i can do this i am just trying to get the best for the money product
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It all depends on how low your car is and how hard you drive it. When my car is paid off in June i plan on replacing almost every suspension component with SPL parts as well as switching out my Stance LX+ coils for Stance GR+ pro coils. So I'll have SPL front and rear camber arms, front lower control arm bushings, toe arms, toe eccentric delete, traction arms, end links and maybe outer tie rods with Tein inner tie rods. I plan to start going to the track with it so that is the reason for the suspension overhaul.Originally Posted by 813G-WHiP
well my tires only feather on the inside edges.. i get the awesomeness to work at a shop so i can do this i am just trying to get the best for the money product
-GP-
