Wheel alignment, not happy with the results.
Wheel alignment, not happy with the results.
I put on a camberkit yesterday, but i am not happy with the result in the rear, what else is there to do to get it right, i only changed the camber arms in the rear, but ended up with these numbers:
Left Camber: -1,58
Left Toe 1,4
Right Camber -1,35
Right Toe 1,4
I could adjust the camber as much as i wanted, but then the toe was way out, so i had to find a middle way.
After adjustment i feel i can see some difference looking at the wheels, left and right, left looks like it not had been adjusted yet.
What else can i do to get it right?
Do i also need to change the toe bolts?
Car is lowered with Eibach Prokit
Left Camber: -1,58
Left Toe 1,4
Right Camber -1,35
Right Toe 1,4
I could adjust the camber as much as i wanted, but then the toe was way out, so i had to find a middle way.
After adjustment i feel i can see some difference looking at the wheels, left and right, left looks like it not had been adjusted yet.
What else can i do to get it right?
Do i also need to change the toe bolts?
Car is lowered with Eibach Prokit
Last edited by Heinz; Jul 19, 2010 at 01:43 AM.
If i'm not mistaken, anything between -2.0 and -1.0 is within factory specs. At first, I made the same wrong assumption that you can set camber to 0(that's if you are trying to do that).
The way the rear suspension moves, you'll run out of toe adjustment the closer the camber is set to 0. You'll notice the toe adjustment bolt has a restricted feel to it with the camber at 0...even with the toe bolt kit/hole enlongated. As far as your current toe at -1.4, that's way off. If my guess is right, you don't have the toe bolt kit and the hole elongated.
The way the rear suspension moves, you'll run out of toe adjustment the closer the camber is set to 0. You'll notice the toe adjustment bolt has a restricted feel to it with the camber at 0...even with the toe bolt kit/hole enlongated. As far as your current toe at -1.4, that's way off. If my guess is right, you don't have the toe bolt kit and the hole elongated.
He didn't say the toe was negative; that would be scary!
Heinz, are those toe numbers in ° or mm? I think it must be 1.4mm. If that is true, then your toe is within specs (0.1-5.5mm), but it would be better if it was about 2.8mm. Camber specs should be between -.75° and -1.75°, so you are right where you should be for camber.
Heinz, are those toe numbers in ° or mm? I think it must be 1.4mm. If that is true, then your toe is within specs (0.1-5.5mm), but it would be better if it was about 2.8mm. Camber specs should be between -.75° and -1.75°, so you are right where you should be for camber.
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This is the factory setup:
Camber Degree minute (Decimal degree) Minimum – 1° 45′ ( – 1.75° )
Nominal – 1° 15′ ( – 1.25° )
Maximum – 0° 45′ ( –0.75° )
Total-in mm (in) Minimum 0 ( 0 )
Distance ( A – B ) Nominal 2.8 ( 0.110 )
Maximum 5.6 ( 0.220 )
My Left Camber is -1° 58′
My Right Camber is -1° 35′
My Left Toe-In is 1,4
My right Toe-In is 1,4
My Toe-In is adjusted to Nominal 2,8 for less tirewear, but i still want the Camber to get closer to the factory Nominal setup – 1° 15′ ( – 1.25° ), so i will buy some new SPC Toe bolts and elongate the hole.
When i stand behind my car looking at the wheels, i can still see some more camber on the left side, compare to the right side
Camber Degree minute (Decimal degree) Minimum – 1° 45′ ( – 1.75° )
Nominal – 1° 15′ ( – 1.25° )
Maximum – 0° 45′ ( –0.75° )
Total-in mm (in) Minimum 0 ( 0 )
Distance ( A – B ) Nominal 2.8 ( 0.110 )
Maximum 5.6 ( 0.220 )
My Left Camber is -1° 58′
My Right Camber is -1° 35′
My Left Toe-In is 1,4
My right Toe-In is 1,4
My Toe-In is adjusted to Nominal 2,8 for less tirewear, but i still want the Camber to get closer to the factory Nominal setup – 1° 15′ ( – 1.25° ), so i will buy some new SPC Toe bolts and elongate the hole.
When i stand behind my car looking at the wheels, i can still see some more camber on the left side, compare to the right side
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