Pirates coilovers
#152
#154
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(picture courtesy of ebay.. hahahahaah)
#155
#156
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iTrader: (24)
OEM vs True is Night and day w/ the bounciness of the rear.. I couldn't take OEM either.. Tried OEM, because you CAN go lower on the oem setup.. but I'm plenty low on the true coil setup..
you're limited w/ how low you can go in true coil setup (not by much) because eventually you'll start compressing the strut.. You don't want to compress the strut because that's what takes the "shock" when you hit a bump.. You want the strut to be not affected during normal driving and you ride on the spring.. The strut should only be engaged in big bumps or "shocks" to the suspension and the gas/liquid w/in the strut straightens everything back out to it's set ride height.
When you convert to True coil setup, you're in essence putting everything on one assembly rather than having them as individuals.. Where as you were previously able to set the compression of the spring independently of the strut, now you have to be conscious of how much you compress the spring because you DO NOT want to be riding on a compressed strut.. You WILL BOTTOM OUT on bumps.. NO BUENO!!! Lol..
you're limited w/ how low you can go in true coil setup (not by much) because eventually you'll start compressing the strut.. You don't want to compress the strut because that's what takes the "shock" when you hit a bump.. You want the strut to be not affected during normal driving and you ride on the spring.. The strut should only be engaged in big bumps or "shocks" to the suspension and the gas/liquid w/in the strut straightens everything back out to it's set ride height.
When you convert to True coil setup, you're in essence putting everything on one assembly rather than having them as individuals.. Where as you were previously able to set the compression of the spring independently of the strut, now you have to be conscious of how much you compress the spring because you DO NOT want to be riding on a compressed strut.. You WILL BOTTOM OUT on bumps.. NO BUENO!!! Lol..
Last edited by twalls; 07-03-2011 at 03:54 PM.
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4D05G35 (07-04-2011)
#157
#159
OEM vs True is Night and day w/ the bounciness of the rear.. I couldn't take OEM either.. Tried OEM, because you CAN go lower on the oem setup.. but I'm plenty low on the true coil setup..
you're limited w/ how low you can go in true coil setup (not by much) because eventually you'll start compressing the strut.. You don't want to compress the strut because that's what takes the "shock" when you hit a bump.. You want the strut to be not affected during normal driving and you ride on the spring.. The strut should only be engaged in big bumps or "shocks" to the suspension and the gas/liquid w/in the strut straightens everything back out to it's set ride height.
When you convert to True coil setup, you're in essence putting everything on one assembly rather than having them as individuals.. Where as you were previously able to set the compression of the spring independently of the strut, now you have to be conscious of how much you compress the spring because you DO NOT want to be riding on a compressed strut.. You WILL BOTTOM OUT on bumps.. NO BUENO!!! Lol..
you're limited w/ how low you can go in true coil setup (not by much) because eventually you'll start compressing the strut.. You don't want to compress the strut because that's what takes the "shock" when you hit a bump.. You want the strut to be not affected during normal driving and you ride on the spring.. The strut should only be engaged in big bumps or "shocks" to the suspension and the gas/liquid w/in the strut straightens everything back out to it's set ride height.
When you convert to True coil setup, you're in essence putting everything on one assembly rather than having them as individuals.. Where as you were previously able to set the compression of the spring independently of the strut, now you have to be conscious of how much you compress the spring because you DO NOT want to be riding on a compressed strut.. You WILL BOTTOM OUT on bumps.. NO BUENO!!! Lol..
#162
Narrr, hope the belly is Ok, but ye "private shame" is showin' matee now that ye crashed on the horizon! Not just you but others ere have run aground.
I be to goin to 5" at the rockers next port of call.
Low riding can suck in the real world to a blind drivin' dork, see this new thread of repenting G-squiddies from all over the land.
It surprised me too.
https://g35driver.com/forums/g35-sed...w-sucks-2.html
I be to goin to 5" at the rockers next port of call.
Low riding can suck in the real world to a blind drivin' dork, see this new thread of repenting G-squiddies from all over the land.
It surprised me too.
https://g35driver.com/forums/g35-sed...w-sucks-2.html
#163
im used to driving low even before the G35 but a low G35 is different just cause of the wheel base on the coupe..i could get around in my DSM after mastering it but now the issue is i have my little brother living with me and hes 300lbs so the added weight topped it off..once he gets a car itll be back to being lower..i adjusted it today like a half inch higher to see if it helps..i realize i didnt hit the undercarriage but the rear portion of the exhaust that hangs down..ill update on how it goes later this week..stiffened up the front and rear to help this issue too. but once i work these things out they'll be no issues..these things are good to go! so if your on the brink of buying them GET THEM already! lol
my apt complex decided to go speed bump happy so i have no choice lol
my apt complex decided to go speed bump happy so i have no choice lol
#164
#165
lol.
Reminds me of this Accord I used to see often when I was growing up.
It was a late 80's (89-91) accord and the guy was probably 400lbs +. The drivers side of the car was lower than the passenger side by a large margin. Even parked you could see the lean.
But I digress. I think that I will still be swapping to "true coilovers" this week, but I am holding of on lowering the car more. I just purchased new front tires (225/35 vs the 245/35 I have now) and I am shopping for new rear tires (255/30/20 vs the 255/35) before I do anymore lowering.
Side note I will have a set of 245/35/20 and 255/35/20 Nitto 555 for sale soon. less than 2k miles.
Reminds me of this Accord I used to see often when I was growing up.
It was a late 80's (89-91) accord and the guy was probably 400lbs +. The drivers side of the car was lower than the passenger side by a large margin. Even parked you could see the lean.
But I digress. I think that I will still be swapping to "true coilovers" this week, but I am holding of on lowering the car more. I just purchased new front tires (225/35 vs the 245/35 I have now) and I am shopping for new rear tires (255/30/20 vs the 255/35) before I do anymore lowering.
Side note I will have a set of 245/35/20 and 255/35/20 Nitto 555 for sale soon. less than 2k miles.