what do you guys think of the complete bushings kit. WEK003 Vehicle Essentials Kit Includes: This is whats included.

KDT911 Rear Differential Mount Bushing
W52988 Front Upper Control Arm Inner Bushings
W52991 Front Lower Control Arm Inner Bushings
W52992 Front Control Arm to Shock Bushings
W83389 Compression Rod Bushings


http://www.nissanautosports.com/whit...-2159-prd1.htm

 

Yes, you can see them in the pictures I posted. I've only had them for a year, so the most current kit with the washers.

Get it, I purchased all of those separately. Even if you have adjustable control arms and don't need the upper bushings, it still saves you money over buying everything individually.

 

Anyone recommend any good reputable shops that will do a full bushing swap on the G35. I purchased the essential white-line kit but i need a shop with a press to remove the old bushings.

Im located in North Jersey. Also ballpark estimate of the cost.

 

same here. please advise -- but i'm in NYC

 

So I went ahead and ordered the compression rod bushings, the lower control arm bushings and new ball joints for my 03 coupe. Once everything was out, my mechanic mentioned I was better off buying the whole control arm as well as the upper ball joints for both sides of the car.

Since I didn't have time to order parts while the car was disassembled, I went to oreileys and bought the two new upper ball joints and the 2 new control arms. The white line compression rod bushings were still pushed in. Ever since I got the car back, the steering feels way too loose and the tires squeal every time I take a turn. On top of that, the front end bottoms out every time I hit a bump on the road and even while going over speed bumps slowly. What could be wrong?

 

So i've been searching around to see why my car would be bottoming out at every bump, but everything seems to say that its due to weak struts. The car was fine before I replaced these parts. Would it be the quality of the parts that's making the car bottom out? I don't really know how these cars would affect how well the suspension handles the bumps on the road.

Any input would be greatly appreciated.

 

I think you should post this question as a new thread, sounds like you have some other issues going on that aren't exactly related to a simple bushing install.

To help you out though, some things that come to mind based on the behavior you're seeing. 1) Was the car aligned after install? 2) When the ball joints were replaced, did the mechanic also install new (or move over) cone bushings (aka ball joint seats). These are metal cone shaped bushing that go on the end of the ball joint, otherwise things are loose. See this thread for reference.

 

Thanks for the reply! After doing some research I found out that my mechanic put on the upper control arm backwards, meaning, the left one on the right side as vice versa. Thanks for pointing me to the ball joint bushing thread though. I am not sure that he reused that part.

 

After about the same amount of miles (2 years this time as I haven't driven as much), I think I'm yet again having the same CR bushing problem even with the washers on the bushings as I've started noticing vibrations while braking from 50-20 mph. Then just the other day I was getting my alignment dialed in and went underneath the car while the tech had my car on the lift and saw the bushing has started to shift again.

Did whiteline just send you replacement bushings with the same size washers? I'm getting tired of having to replace these bushings so I think I'm done with them and going with SPL.

 

Just a reminder, I'm at 12 months now on my SuperPro bushings with no problems

 

Yeah I'm thinking with a lowered car the whiteline CR bushings just don't hold up on a street car e.g. potholes, road work, construction, etc.

Are you running SPL bushings everywhere or just the compression rod bushings? Is your car lowered? If so, how much? And do you have any clunking noises with the SPL CR bushings?

 

The only bushings I've replaced are the CR bushings, although many others should be done as well. I just don't have the time to mess with it right now. My car isn't lowered, but as a reminder, I have SuperPro bushings, not SPL bearings. Big, big difference. SPL are spherical metal bearings, SuperPro are non-metallic.

Any time you get away from stock geometric (lowering especially) you should think about the pre-load effects on the rubber pieces. If the whiteline bushings spend all their time 50-100% stressed rather than operating from the "neutral" orientation, then you can reasonably expect shortened service life.

 

Ah, ok, thanks for the clarification! I originally read the "Pro" in your last post and thought you meant the SPL Pro. But now I've looked at your previous post in detail and see what you mean. They look similar to the Whiteline bushings and they are both based out of Australia - interesting.

Unfortunately, I don't think even the Super Pros will hold up much better than the Whitelines on a lowered street car. I was told by a couple different shops to probably avoid SPL's aluminum CR bushings for a street car due to noise, stiffness, etc. But it looks like that's the route I'm going next. I have Whiteline bushings everywhere else in the front so just having 1 SPL aluminum bushing on the highly stressed compression rods is probably going to be OK.

 

I don't want to belabor this point too much, but I would like a clarification from my end: are the Whiteline bushings 1 piece rubber + steel sleeve? The SuperPro are 3piece, such that the sleeve/post is allowed to move within the inner rounded donut (center piece) and the top and bottom "hats" slide around along the faces of this center piece separately, such that rather than a 1-piece bushing taking near constant shear stress through the middle of the part (made specifically worse on a lowered car), each piece of the 3-piece bushing just takes compression stress. That's my guess on the failure mode of the Whiteline bushings: tear through the center due to shear stress-induced fatigue failure. If someone had good photos of some failed bushings we could probably validate that.

WRT SPL, most shops will tell you not to get bearings b/c of NVH concerns, but we are not most drivers. If you convert 100% to bearings it take away every shred of forgiveness in the pavement, in the alignment, and in your hands. You will feel everything. Every pothole will feel like you broke something. It's up to you if you want that, but I can tell you that I loved the full SPL setup on my Z32. I haven't gone that direction in my G35 because I want to keep it a little "softer" for my wife, and because the SuperPro seemed like the perfect balance to me (and cheaper than SPL).

 

The Whiteline CR bushing is a 5-piece if you count the washers on each end of the bushing. Without the washers, they are a 3 piece very similar to the SuperPro where you have top and bottom "hats" that sandwich together onto the compression rod and the sleeve slides in-between them giving each component some freedom. Here's a direct link to Whiteline's CR bushings for 03-07 G35s that show a few pictures to give you the idea. http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_...W83389&sq=8787

The NVH concerns are exactly why I didn't go with SPL everywhere, and why I think I'll probably still stick with Whiteline in the areas that don't need the extra strength. But the CR bushings certainly aren't one of those areas and I will be putting SPL in next.

I have all Whiteline rear bushings that I'm going to be replacing soon. So I think I'm going to start a new thread to ask input from forum members to get recommendations on what areas on our cars one would suggest getting SPL aluminum bushings for extra strength.

Thanks Chris for your input!