Hey guys, i'll try to keep this sweet and simple. When it comes to modding g35's, they are expensive cars to begin with, so I don't Cheep out on any parts that go on them. My gf has a 2007 g35 coupe, she recently wanted to get some work done on it so i did a lot of research and work for her.

We went ahead and got the Eibach Pro-Kit lowering springs for it because all we wanted was a mild drop on it. I did a lot of research on alignment issues with G35's. Her being a female driver I wanted her to be as safe as possible especially when it comes to suspension so we ordered The SPC camber kit front and rear, with the Toe bolts for the rear. I went ahead and installed everything, Elongated the toe holes for the rear, installed rear camber arms, and front camber arms. everything took me about 3-4 hours.

I had access to an alignment rack so I got it on there to align, although i know its best to align it in a month or so after the springs settle. We will be going back for an alignment where I work again in a month... anyways

Getting to the point, i was pretty disappointed on the adjustments of this kit. The front was decent, I will be getting the Cradle shifted to even out the camber, but Left side was -1.7 degree, Right side was -.6, no problem she had the same issue before the kit. I expected to be able to get more positive camber out of it though. Now the rear is what i was most concerned about, so getting on the Rack with a full tank of gas, I got it into spec but wanted more adjustment out of it. The best I could get the rear right camber was -1.4 degrees, toe .12 degrees. The rear left i got -1.6 degree camber, .08 degree toe. I know these numbers are great and very close to factory, but i am disappointed that i cannot get the rear camber more positive without maxing out my toe adjustment. Reason i say this is because what happens when the springs settle, and the wheels and offsets are changed? I'm planning on getting 19 x 10.5 with +12 offset wheels for the rear, Now how is that going to affect the alignment? I don't want the adjustments to be maxed out at -2 degrees camber because she does a lot of highway driving and needs the tires to last. I'm aware camber isn't your biggest enemy when it comes to tread wear, and that toe is. But -2 degree camber with different size wheels isn't going to give you the tread life you want, especially highway driving.

Does anyone else have this kind of issue with the kit? I'm sure I installed everything correctly, elongated the holes to the size of the templates, etc. Any advice anyone can give me please? I drive a MKIV supra running -2 degree camber on an aggressive wheel setup, my tires don't last for nothing. Thanks in advance!


Some pics of the car...








sorry for the poor quality, but this is how the car sits after the install and alignment.

 

Thats weird, I am really low and my specs are right on where I wanted with SPC kif and I didnt even elongate the holes for the toe bolts

 

I have been much lower than that on my SPC front and rears (front no shims even), and been more in spec. At your ride height you should easily be able to get -1 (I would beat a lot less even) in camber while keeping toe in spec.

 

what do you think the issue is?

 

Do u have the studs on the upper balljoints facing the same way?? I think if u face them outward u get more positive camber, i could be wrong though.. lol

 

The car has never been wrecked, nothing! there is no damage. The holes for toe bolts have been drilled out to template size and everything else has been properly installed.... i just cant see what the possible issue is. I read somewhere on the forums someone else was having an issue with having to run more negative camber in order to get the toe to zero.

 

I'm not sure what you're talking about, all bolts have been placed back how they were taken off

 

The top one that slides back and forth on the spc's, i think its angled and u can spin it so its angled out..

 

Are you talking about the factory Cam bolt that goes on the SPC camber arm? and if so, adjust the cam bolt all the way positive? or all the way negative? All the way positive the cam will be facing the wheel, negative the cam will be facing the center of the car.

 

Yeah put them out toward the wheel..

 

What sort of shape are the control arm bushings in?

 

everything seems to be in good shape... the car is never driven hard, has almost 80k miles on it. its a 2007

 

Doesn't matter if it's not driven that hard - at 80k your bushings are likely shot. At 45k, my upper control arms were shifting fore/aft and my lower control arms were done even though they "looked" ok. Give everything the wiggle test and see.

 

well while on the alignment rack, i pushed the front of the wheels and back of the wheels against each other to see if the reading would change, and it was pretty solid

 

I couldn't detect any difference when I grabbed the wheel either, but when the tech put a pry bar in between the bushings and the frame, and the pry bar into the bushings, there was significant movement. After having them replaced, the difference in tightness and road feel is obvious, even after only 45k.