front struts
I changed my front struts to a set of kyb and I bought aftermarket strut tower mounts. after a few months im getting that knock like I have play in the tower. when I hit big bumps..whats wrong.is it the after market mounts...please help
It's probably not related to the struts unless they have had a catastrophic failure (which would be surprising this early on). My best guess for you would be the bushings on the transverse link (if you go by the FSM naming conventions, also called a control arm) that hold it on the inner / body side.
Your best bet would be to jack up the front of the car and check the wheel for play, if there's lateral play it could be an issue with the wheel hub assembly. But more likely than not it's a bushing issue. When you hit a bump you're hearing that arm shift back and forth hitting metal because the bushing is worn and not holding it in place.
You'll probably see something like this on the aluminum arm that the strut's lower mount attaches to if you follow inward towards the center of the vehicle:
Your best bet would be to jack up the front of the car and check the wheel for play, if there's lateral play it could be an issue with the wheel hub assembly. But more likely than not it's a bushing issue. When you hit a bump you're hearing that arm shift back and forth hitting metal because the bushing is worn and not holding it in place.
You'll probably see something like this on the aluminum arm that the strut's lower mount attaches to if you follow inward towards the center of the vehicle:
Suspension Noises...Search is your friend!
I feel like a broken record (old school) continually giving advice about suspension noises! You can't find the problem unless you get your coupe/sedan on a rack and have a professional check everything out. Locate a independent brake/alignment shop in your neighborhood, they'll find/fix your issues and not charge you stealership prices!
Gary
Gary
Unless the issue is bushing related, which can be identified with about 20 minutes of looking at the thing rather than paying a shop their hourly rate.
But if you'd rather toss money at someone to tell you what your own eyes could, that's cool I guess
But if you'd rather toss money at someone to tell you what your own eyes could, that's cool I guess
At the very least, looking at it for a few minutes would be a good logical first step before taking it to a shop. If you're asking the question, my first assumption is that you'd like to figure out what's wrong and do something about it. Otherwise you would have already gone to a shop.
I could be incorrect all together, if so - my bad.
You might spot the problem and know what needs to be fixed and be able to figure out how to solve it, or you might at least have the knowledge to avoid getting screwed when you limp into a shop and hand over the car and your hard earned money.
I could be incorrect all together, if so - my bad.
You might spot the problem and know what needs to be fixed and be able to figure out how to solve it, or you might at least have the knowledge to avoid getting screwed when you limp into a shop and hand over the car and your hard earned money.
That photo is an example of the extreme end of bushing failure. Mine were off center like that but not that far and it was making the "klunk" noise. I had all my front end bushings replaced with poly bushings. I supplied the kit and the shop charged me about $650 labor. The mechanic told me "never again!" would he do another G. It took him all day.
That is definitely an extreme example, it was the first one that came up on google image search.
It's really not that bad to do as long as you have access to a press or can have the car down while you bring the arm to a shop to have it pressed in. That arm is held in by 4 bolts: the primary body side bolt where the bushing is, the end link, the bottom strut mount, and the ball joint at the wheel assembly.
The first three are very simple, they just unscrew. The ball joint requires you use something to hold it still as it may spin while you hit the top nut with (preferably) an impact wrench. Removal shouldn't really take very long, just make sure you keep a jack under the wheel hub so you can adjust angles as needed but keep it supported.
I'm pretty much disabled due to back problems and I was able to knock out the replacement in about 3 hours. I had started with new transverse links and had new bushings pressed in all around before I attempted the install, so obviously cut the time down, but it's one of the easier DIY projects I've done for myself. And I've done quite a few on this car.
It's really not that bad to do as long as you have access to a press or can have the car down while you bring the arm to a shop to have it pressed in. That arm is held in by 4 bolts: the primary body side bolt where the bushing is, the end link, the bottom strut mount, and the ball joint at the wheel assembly.
The first three are very simple, they just unscrew. The ball joint requires you use something to hold it still as it may spin while you hit the top nut with (preferably) an impact wrench. Removal shouldn't really take very long, just make sure you keep a jack under the wheel hub so you can adjust angles as needed but keep it supported.
I'm pretty much disabled due to back problems and I was able to knock out the replacement in about 3 hours. I had started with new transverse links and had new bushings pressed in all around before I attempted the install, so obviously cut the time down, but it's one of the easier DIY projects I've done for myself. And I've done quite a few on this car.
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Unless you're going to be tracking the car I'd go with Polyurethane bushings. I believe the options are Whiteline or Energy Suspension with most guys using Whiteline if I remember right.
Poly bushings won't last quite as long as solid bushings (from SPL) but they have much less noise / vibration / harshness and are a lot easier to install. You'll still want access to a press for removing the old bushings (although a sawzall and torch will work it's not ideal or really recommended) but you can probably hammer in / c-clamp press in the new poly bushings. An air compressor and impact gun make everything easier of course.
Poly bushings won't last quite as long as solid bushings (from SPL) but they have much less noise / vibration / harshness and are a lot easier to install. You'll still want access to a press for removing the old bushings (although a sawzall and torch will work it's not ideal or really recommended) but you can probably hammer in / c-clamp press in the new poly bushings. An air compressor and impact gun make everything easier of course.
Definitely comes in handy. I tried to get one twice and each time I showed up they were out of stock lol.
Ended up borrowing a press from a friend when I was doing the diff bushings and using a buddy's shop for the front end bushings, but having one in the garage would be ideal. Has a relatively small foot print too so easy enough to keep out of the way. At 150k you're going to be doing more than just the lower arms eventually, and you can probably sell it off on craigslist for 50-75 when you're done. Shop rates will likely add up to more than that pretty quickly.
Ended up borrowing a press from a friend when I was doing the diff bushings and using a buddy's shop for the front end bushings, but having one in the garage would be ideal. Has a relatively small foot print too so easy enough to keep out of the way. At 150k you're going to be doing more than just the lower arms eventually, and you can probably sell it off on craigslist for 50-75 when you're done. Shop rates will likely add up to more than that pretty quickly.
thanks I did shocks struts tie rod ends and or end links and front unversial and front transfer case...im committed already I had the car from day one...now its time to pay the piper...lol after 8 years im just putting money into it...I feel its worth it...I luv my G !!!
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