Number 10 on the pic from passenger side is sliding in and out of a diff about quarter of an inch.
My car was previously Tboned on that side and impact went into the wheel. So there are possibilities something was damaged there during the impact. It served me fine though for few years with no issues and only recently started sliding.

Does anyone have any knowledge of what could be possibly damaged there to cause the sliding?
Also if I do replace entire diff. I remember folks upgrading to a different ratio from newer model Gs. What do I need to be looking for If i was to upgrade.

My car is Automatic 2005 G35 Coupe.

Thanks in advance.

 

2005 that initially came with rays? I think we have the 3.5 and you would want to upgrade to 3.7 or 4.1 if you don't care about mpg

As for the thing, idk.

 

Manual G37's will have a 3.7 VLSD and can be found for under $500. If it has 4 bolt holes on the flange than it will be a direct fit.

 

I can't say for certain, but I believe it's more than 4 bolts on the flange.

How bad is the drop in mpg?

 

Its four bolts

 

after some search on the interwebs it looks like part under number 10 (axle flange) is a simple press in. there is no bolts, snap rings or anything else holding it there.
Can anyone offer any information on this issue.

What does it press into to? Is it the bearing under number 13? Could the bearing be bad and give that play to the flange?. I know it's not seal or shim.

 

There is a circular clip that holds the axle flanges inside the diff. Possible it was damaged during collision.

If you have an open diff, they're located in the final drive for both sides.
If you have LSD, then the clip is in the final drive on the right side, but on the output shaft on the left side.

The flanges press into #14 in your picture.


Attached is a snip from the FSM. If the circlip broke, then I hope the magnet in the drain plug caught it before it bounced around inside your diff.





Open Diff, #15 are the circular clips (there's 2, both are in case)




LSD, #17 are the clips (one is in case, other is on the output shaft)




Hope this helps solve your problem.

 

I thought there is a clip holding the flange, but all videos I saw even the service manual (2003-2004 though)
including the picture you posted do not say anything about removing no clip. They simply say to attach the bracket for the flange and use a sliding hammer to pull it out. Nothing on removing cover and taking off the clip.

In other posts and videos I ran into same info.

Weird.

 

Somebody help me with the diff that I found.

It's from an automatic 08 G37 Journey Coupe.
I know it's 3.7 ratio, but the question is. Is it VLSD diff or Open diff.
I asked the guy to turn one axle flange and see which way the other one turns. The other turns the opposite way. Does that mean it's an open diff?

 

You don't usually have to remove that clip, it more or less locks the half shafts in place. That's why you have to hammer them on, if that makes sense.

As far as the diff you're looking at, the best way to tell is to remove the back cover and look. Spinning works too and that does sound like an open diff.

 

Should I go for Open diff. I believe my G also has open diff. (just checked with spinning method by jacking up the car and wheels do spin opposite ways)
Or should I keep searching for VLSD.
I'm concerned about the Cruise control everyone keeps having after upgrading diffs. I wonder if I upgrade from open diff to open diff I might not run into any issues with CC.

I'm open for suggestions.

 

According to this method, my diff is VLSD.

 

these stuff are confusing as heck.

According to above post my Diff is VLSD.
Here is what I get from diff i'm considering.

Spinning one axle flange, other spins opposite way while drive line flange stays put. That simulates transmission being in gear since drive line is not spinning. When doing test in N on my G, drive line was spinning while both wheels were turning same way.

This crap is confusing.

 

VLSD is a better option if you can find it, just for the traction benefits.

The cruise control issues have more to do with the final drive ratio being different. Automatics seem more sensitive because the trans-ECU freaks out thinking it's spinning too fast for a given speed.

 

An open diff will turn the wheels in opposite directions when the car is jacked up. Another way to tell is by holding one half axle steady and turning the flange on the front, that one half axle will remain stationary while the other will turn.

A VLSD will spin both half shafts in the same direction no matter what you do.