When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Ok, so I went to get the car aligned as the fronts were wearing on the insides (normal problem for this car right?). I got 4 new tires at Discount and had it aligned at a place they recommended. They said while they were doing the alignment, they noticed the bearings were going out. Ok, no problem. Found an awesome write up and knocked that project out. Replaced bearings and ball joints, reused hubs. Only issue was the steering was "wandering" a bit afterwards. Not a big deal and I was going to check it out. Less than 200 miles later, I ended up with two trashed fronts because they wore so badly on the insides. The lower ball joints are also destroyed. I figure either I somehow screwed up something royally or the alignment was not done properly. Am I missing something? I'm not a mechanic but I'm far from a noob. I've done just about every job on a vehicle except rebuild a tranny. Any help is GREATLY appreciated.
Did you get an alignment after you replaced the ball joints? Cuz if not, that's why. Any time you tear up the front end like that you need an alignment. I don't care what anyone else says.
That being said, with as many ball joint, camber, tire and bushing problems our cars have, I always encourage new owners to purchase a lifetime alignment. It will pay for itself 10x over the life of the car.
Ok, so I trailered the car home from work today. The front wheels are obviously not plumb, they are visibly further in at the top and out at the bottom (I just looked it up, it's negative camber). That is obviously whey they are wearing on the insides but I need to clarify something. After putting new lower ball joints and and assuming the previous alignment was done correctly, it could be so out of whack that within 200 miles the tires wear down past the cord? I'm not saying it's not possible, it just seems like there is another problem causing the wheels to be at such an odd angle.
No, that's camber. Camber decides where the tire wears, it doesn't quickly or excessively wear them. Your toe is what's eating your tires. Your tires must be pointed slightly inward (imagine pointing your toes inward when you walk; or being "pigeon toed"). Well, if you roll the tires forward like that, its basically like dragging them sideways. That's why they're wearing so quickly. You're basically pushing them slightly sideways.
Did you replace the ball-joint yourself? Or did you replace the entire control arm? I have the ball joint that needs replacing but I was told that the entire control arm needs to be replaced.
Did you replace the ball-joint yourself? Or did you replace the entire control arm? I have the ball joint that needs replacing but I was told that the entire control arm needs to be replaced.
That is the compression rod ball joint. He's talking about the steering knuckle ball joint. The compression rod joint is irreplaceable and needs the entire arm replaced.
That is the compression rod ball joint. He's talking about the steering knuckle ball joint. The compression rod joint is irreplaceable and needs the entire arm replaced.
I'm talking about the steering knuckle in which the strut attaches. Called the dealer and they said to replace the entire arm. Trying to get a hold of some polyurethane bushing and a ball joint. But I wanted to make sure I can replace it. Thanks for the info!
You have a lower control arm with two bushings that goes perpendicular to the length of the car. It connects the frame to the steering knuckle and has the sway bar end link and shock connected to it. It has no ball joint.
You have another control arm that is almost parallel to the length of the car (its slightly curved) called the compression rod or radius arm, and it has a bushing on the back and an irreplaceable ball joint on the front. It also connects the frame to the steering knuckle.
On the steering knuckle you have one big ball joint that the dealer will tell you is irreplaceable, but it is absolutely replaceable. The dealer wouldn't call this an arm tho, so I'm a bit confused by what youre saying.
Do you have a picture of what you're trying to replace?
So I took the car apart after getting 5 new tires and found the front lower control arm (aka tranverse link) is completely worn where the lower ball joint sits. This is the passenger side but I'm sure driver's side is the same or worse. I didn't get the ball joint tightened down enough and it's going to cost me. Any advice on replacements? Aftermarket vs. junkyard? The boot connecting to the transaxle is also shot.
You should be fine with your lower control arm, remove the burrs and deformed material and the taper should still lock in fine.
CV axel boots are cheap online and come as a kit, buy the kid for the side you destroyed, no big deal.
Ball joints are available everywhere, aftermarket if you're lowered too. I bough the cheapest ones I could find a few months ago and their quality was fine for me and I drive pretty hard.
So you should only be in the hole for about $60, add in a torque wrench to do the job properly next time... $150 total.
Make sure you go back and look over every nut you touched and recall yourself tightening it before you put the wheels on the car no matter how late or cold it is!
Good luck!
Edit: Stay the hell away from parts geek, awful experiences there, AWFUL. Rock auto 100%.
